2013 SV - thoughts?

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Is this information in the manual somewhere?

I believe you since a watt is a watt and the charger shouldn't have any trouble converting the AC power coming in to DC for the batteries if it has enough power, but....the specs I find on-line seem to indicate that the 120V charging rate is always much lower than the 240V rate. This document http://nissannews.com/media_storage/downloads/2017-Nissan-LEAF-Specs-FINAL.pdf which comes from what would seem to be an 'official' site shows the 120V rate to be about half the 240V rate for both the 3.3kW and 6.6kW chargers. In fact, looking at this, the only advantage of the upgraded charger option is the DC quick charger port since it shows the L2 charge times to be about equal between the 3.3kW and 6.6kW (6.0 kW ?) on-board chargers.

Edit to add: A lot of my questions are answered here in older posts: '3.3 kW' charger means car can accept 3.3kW but draw 3.8kW while '6.6kW charger' means car can draw 6.6kW but accepts only 6.0kW, hence the naming confusion, or here https://insideevs.com/charging-levels-explained-bower/

Interesting that L1, L2, or L3 can be either AC or DC. That was news to me.
 
goldbrick said:
This document http://nissannews.com/media_storage/downloads/2017-Nissan-LEAF-Specs-FINAL.pdf which comes from what would seem to be an 'official' site shows the 120V rate to be about half the 240V rate for both the 3.3kW and 6.6kW chargers. In fact, looking at this, the only advantage of the upgraded charger option is the DC quick charger port since it shows the L2 charge times to be about equal between the 3.3kW and 6.6kW (6.0 kW ?) on-board chargers.
This would be the case if the EVSE was limited to about 16 Amps (20 Amp circuity). Unclear table to be sure.

I own a 2013 LEAF with a 6.6 kW OBC and can confirm that the car charges at 6 kW net into the battery when not constrained by the EVSE. I see it by charging times every time we plug in the car at home using our (max) 9.6 kW EVSE during the day and I time the SoC increase or by the logs that ChargePoint provides when I use L2 charging in a nearby town. E.g.,

uc
 
dragonmanagement said:
Hello all,

Looking to buy used 2013 SV at $9K from private seller. Here are the LeafSpy data.

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Thoughts? Comments? Concerns?

This is my first EV purchase, so I'm trying to be more circumspect than I normally would be when purchasing a car.

Best as I can tell, this looks like a pretty good deal, especially given its use in the Upper Midwest (US).

Thanks in advance for your help. Cheers.
I bought mine with similar leafspy data last year for around $6,000 in California.
 
dragonmanagement said:
SageBrush said:
If you have log info that goes back a couple of months that shows a steady Ahr capacity it would be reassuring that no reset monkey business had taken place.
Working on getting that info now.
***

Just heard back from the seller re: AHr...
10/20/17 - 59.5
Got up to 60.6 in December
Currently (as of 3/24/18) at 60.1

So, looks like no reset. :D
 
BTW, I was talking to another seller about a 2015 SV. I sent the exact same email message as the one I sent about the 2013 SV in this post (asking for LeafSpy data before driving 2+ hours to see the car), and their response was, "Hello, I had my son do the LeafSpy when I bought the car 12,000 miles ago. It was at 96% then. It's not my responsibility to test that for you. You are welcome to come and test it for yourself."

Call me crazy, but that seemed like a kinda nuts response from the seller, right? (Especially given how key the LeafSpy data is in making a decision re: purchasing a used EV)
 
When I was shopping for a LEAF, I decided that the differences between a 10/2013+ car to a new one were minor and that I should focus on battery health so long as the cosmetic condition was OK. I still think this is a valid approach and it let me buy a good car for a steal.

OP appears to be doing the same and I think he will be pleased with this car he is considering.
 
dragonmanagement said:
BTW, I was talking to another seller about a 2015 SV. I sent the exact same email message as the one I sent about the 2013 SV in this post (asking for LeafSpy data before driving 2+ hours to see the car), and their response was, "Hello, I had my son do the LeafSpy when I bought the car 12,000 miles ago. It was at 96% then. It's not my responsibility to test that for you. You are welcome to come and test it for yourself."

Call me crazy, but that seemed like a kinda nuts response from the seller, right? (Especially given how key the LeafSpy data is in making a decision re: purchasing a used EV)

The 2015 would be a better car (despite lacking a couple of features of the 2013) so I suggest you go and run LeafSpy on it. If it were close to me that's what I'd do. I'd like to find a nice, loaded 2015 SV with high SOH.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Interesting that L1, L2, or L3 can be either AC or DC. That was news to me.

Are you trolling for indignant responses?

Not at all. I'm still new to the whole EV thing and trying to find definitions for all the terms is a bit harder than I think it should be. It doesn't help that the average customer seems to know more about the various systems than the average car dealer/seller. And of course, the average MNL forum user is probably more knowledgeable yet but still....from reading all the various posts here since I bought my Leaf (which has been my main education in the topic) I came to some erroneous conclusions about the what some of the various terms actually mean.

And as an entirely OT aside, it would sure be nice if there was a FAQ section somewhere that explained the differences between EVSE and 'charger', L1/L2/L3, DCQC, Chademo, kW and kWh, SOC and SOH, etc, etc. There is a lot to learn for a new EV owner and reading through years of posts is not an efficient way to educate oneself. For example, I've been reading MNL since I bought my Leaf 8 months ago and never once encountered a post indicating the precise definition of L1/L2/L3 charging. I made some bad assumptions and then repeated them and I'm sure I'm not the only one in that boat.
 
We'd love to have a FAQ, but the site owners seem to have zero interest in doing anything like that. We can't even make a "sticky post" that will remain in sight.
 
goldbrick said:
....And as an entirely OT aside, it would sure be nice if there was a FAQ section somewhere that explained the differences between EVSE and 'charger', L1/L2/L3, DCQC, Chademo, kW and kWh, SOC and SOH, etc, etc. There is a lot to learn for a new EV owner and reading through years of posts is not an efficient way to educate oneself. For example, I've been reading MNL since I bought my Leaf 8 months ago and never once encountered a post indicating the precise definition of L1/L2/L3 charging. I made some bad assumptions and then repeated them and I'm sure I'm not the only one in that boat.
I'll take a stab at a couple of those questions:
EVSE is what plugs into the wall(or can be hard-wired) and then plugs into the car(for L1 and L2).
The charger is whats in the car and converts this AC power to DC to charge the battery, with L3 or QC the box that plugs into the car bypasses the internal charger and supplies DC power directly to the batteries, therefore could and usually is called a charger.
Chademo is the standard of QC the Leaf uses, other mfgs. may use CSS?? They are incompatible, a car with QC would use either one or the other.
Kw is 1000 watts(a typical hair dryer or plug in heater uses 1500w, a Kw is 1000 watts so 1500w=1.5Kw
kWh is 1000 watts for 1hr, a device drawing 2000w for 1hr would = 2kwh, for 30 minutes would be 1kWh, etc.
SOC is the shortened version of State Of Charge
SOH is the shortened version of State Of Health, measured with something like LeafSpy(a user purchased program that works in conjunction with a device that plugs into the OBDII port on your car).
L1=120vAC can be as low as 6a or high as 27.5a with a Leaf, depending on your charger and of course EVSE.
L2=208-240v can be as low as 6a or high as 27.5a with a Leaf, depending on your charger and EVSE.
L3 AKA QC feeds DC directly to the car, bypassing the cars built in charger resulting in potentially much faster charging, eg 80% charge in 30 minutes, speed depends on the charger as well as SOC of battery and temperatures.
Note in Europe and other countries that use 220v for their standard outlets I believe they may differentiate between L1 and L2 by the charging speed......not sure about that one. Being a higher voltage their standard outlets max out at a lesser current than our 15a or even 20a standard 120v outlets.
 
Chademo is the standard of QC the Leaf uses, other mfgs. may use CSS?? They are incompatible, a car with QC would use either one or the other.

That's "CCS" or "SAE Combo" or, in Leaf circles, "Frankenplug" which is unfair because it's a simpler, better design than Chademo that uses one port for both L-2 and DC Fast Charging.
 
alozzy said:
The LeafSpy stats look decent, you're unlikely to find much better. I think the price is fair too, although prices vary depending in which market you are buying. Interesting that it's never had a QC, does it have a CHADEMO port? Guessing not...

The VIN # looks weird, they usually start with 1N4. Too bad, as the trick to get the original sales sticker is handy for seeing the original location it was sold in and what options it had:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=23716

You should check when it was made (door pillar), as you want a LEAF that has the better battery chemistry (anytime from April 2013 onwards has the improved chemistry).

Also, you're probably going to need to buy a new 12V battery, that voltage is pretty low.


Still a bit new to LeafSpy... what line on the LS page shows the 12V battery voltage level?
Thx
 
Since LeafSpy can only read the car with it on, the accessory battery voltage will always read much higher than at rest with the car off because it's running on the DC-DC converter. I wouldn't go by that.
 
alozzy said:
Agreed, it's not something I find very useful, but the OP did ask...

Briscoebully, you have to measure the 12 volt battery voltage with the car off, after 15 or more minutes, without opening a door (you can just pop the hood before leaving the car). Use a multi-meter. Typical voltage for a 2013 Leaf is 12.6 volts or less. Below 12.4 volts and you will likely have problems.
 
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