Just bought a 2011 Leaf and loving it!

Deolloz said:

Second, what happens when the the car is active and "on," and I plug it straight in? Will it turn off? Could use this as a method of cooling the cars temperature before getting into it, and thereby using less of the battery power to do that?

Click to expand...

I believe Gerry gave instructions in his previous post on how to activate the HVAC while plugged in.

Couple of questions
Can you park in a consistently shaded area?
What are the battery temp gauges on LeafSpy reading?
How many GIDS do you have when fully (~90%) charged?
Can you charge consistently over night when cool(er)?

I'd recommend you charge to the 90% simply because your range is so limited - get all you can out of it when needed.
During this hot season, I'm using about 3.5 to 3.7 GIDs per mile with A/C and moderate driving speeds. This of course will vary, but I've found the best accuracy for range (when really tight), is to use the starting GIDs, assume you can go to at least 10 GIDs before you hit "turtle"(leave a little safety factor!) . Give this a try. I'll likely be in your situation in a couple of years!

GerryAZ said:

The best way to cool while plugged in is to use the EV Connect (CarWings) system to start cooling remotely, but you need the 3G modem upgrade and an account (no cost) with Nissan. You can also use climate control timer to activate HVAC system while plugged in if your schedule is consistent. I think you can start climate control at the car while it is plugged in if the SOC is at least 25% using the following procedure:
1. Place foot on brake.
2. Press ON button once (dash will show message iindicating car is plugged in and not ready to drive), but HVAC should work.
3. Turn car OFF, unplug, and then turn car ON when ready to drive.

Click to expand...

Gerry is correct about these methods. However, let me emphasize that for 1-2-3 steps to work, the car needs to be actively charging (at least in my 2011). Also, the HVAC is pre-set to 77F, so if ambient is above that, cooling should occur. I've never tried it for cooling, I only do it for heating. Also, this method "may" drain the 12V battery slightly, so make sure you have a good, strong 12V battery. I've not replaced mine yet (7 yrs in two weeks), but many people have had problems, especially in hot temp areas, and have had to replace it, sometime multiple times.

The 12-volt battery will be charging as long as the car is actively charging. If charging stops, HVAC blower fan and car instrumentation will continue to run so the 12-volt battery will be discharging until you turn car off, unplug, and turn car back on in ready mode. I don't think that 2011 and 2012 models will start charging if plugged in while in ready mode. 2013 and later have electric latch on charge port door that is interlocked so the door will not unlatch unless car is off.

Reddy is correct, remote/timer climate control is preset to 25 C or 77 F on 2011 and 2012 models. Cooling will occur if cabin temperature is above that and heating will occur if cabin temperature is below that. Therefore, don't try for cooling if the ambient is near that temperature because it might turn on heat instead.

Hello all,

So just today my Leaf stopped accepting a charge. I went to 3-4 different ChagrePoint Stations (some of which I"ve used in the past), and with each on,e it didn't work.

What was happening is that the car would charge for a split second or so, and then stop charging, and the display on the charge point station would indicate it was "waiting for the vehicle." I made sure that the vehicle as off, windows up, in park, etc. I plugged in and unplugged numerous times. I noticed that the three blue lights on the dash were alternating in a cycle instead of having just the one blinking.

ANY IDEAS why this could be and possible fix? it charged just last night at a charge point station near my house. Please advise!

THanks,
Michael D.

Three alternating lights means that you have your timer set and the car is waiting until that time to start charging. When out at public stations, always turn off your timers (preferred) or hit the override button (less preferred because the charge won't restart if someone inadvertently unplugs your car).

Reddy said:

Three alternating lights means that you have your timer set and the car is waiting until that time to start charging. When out at public stations, always turn off your timers (preferred) or hit the override button (less preferred because the charge won't restart if someone inadvertently unplugs your car).

Click to expand...

Thank You Reddy, in fact it was my timers. Still learning so much about this car! Thanks.

Couple of questions
Can you park in a consistently shaded area?
Yes I try to park in a shaded area most of the time, charging or not. I've always tried to do that even with an ICE car. I think the rapid battery degeneration may be somewhat caused by charging it in direct sunlight in Texas summer heat over 100. The charging station I use at home is mostly shaded.

What are the battery temp gauges on LeafSpy reading? I haven't ready the battery temp gauage with LeafSpy, yet. I only have the free version of leafspy, does that include battery temp gauges? I can check that when I get home tonight.

How many GIDS do you have when fully (~90%) charged?
What's a GIDS?

Can you charge consistently over night when cool(er)?
Yes I can and do typically charge overnight (and during the day if necessary). I actually mainly use a ChargePoint AC (Level II) station in my apartment complex as my primary way of charging the car. I rarely use the Level I charger that came with the car, because I live in a second floor apartment, but I could have a long extension cord laid out.

I'd recommend you charge to the 90% simply because your range is so limited - get all you can out of it when needed.
• How do I charge to 80% or 90% without Carwings, or do I just go ahead and bite the bullet and get Carwings installed?

During this hot season, I'm using about 3.5 to 3.7 GIDs per mile with A/C and moderate driving speeds. This of course will vary, but I've found the best accuracy for range (when really tight), is to use the starting GIDs, assume you can go to at least 10 GIDs before you hit "turtle"(leave a little safety factor!) . Give this a try.
Can you elaborate just a little bit about this process? Sorry I'm such a noob!

When I was working it was 19.6 miles from Anaheim to Long Beach and I lad a 16A 208V EVSE to use at work. I could have tolerated a lot lot lost bars in Sunny Southern California.

Now that I am retired I have just over 2700 miles on my B. Purchased (leased) last September. These days I do not drive much. Just to meals and the occasional Doctor Apt.

Deolloz said:

Couple of questions

What are the battery temp gauges on LeafSpy reading? I haven't ready the battery temp gauage with LeafSpy, yet. I only have the free version of leafspy, does that include battery temp gauges? I can check that when I get home tonight.

How many GIDS do you have when fully (~90%) charged?
What's a GIDS?

I'd recommend you charge to the 90% simply because your range is so limited - get all you can out of it when needed.
• How do I charge to 80% or 90% without Carwings, or do I just go ahead and bite the bullet and get Carwings installed?

During this hot season, I'm using about 3.5 to 3.7 GIDs per mile with A/C and moderate driving speeds. This of course will vary, but I've found the best accuracy for range (when really tight), is to use the starting GIDs, assume you can go to at least 10 GIDs before you hit "turtle"(leave a little safety factor!) . Give this a try.
Can you elaborate just a little bit about this process? Sorry I'm such a noob!

Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with the "free" LeafSpy, however LeafSpy Pro will show the best measure of battery energy in GIDs. Do some research on this site to learn the genesis of "GIDs". You can charge to 90% by not limiting the charge to 80% (a menu item). You don't need Carwings for this.

When you are able to use LeafSpy to obtain the remaining GIDs, simply subtract 10 GIDs, divide that total by 3.6 (for an estimate) and that will give you expected miles range to very low battery alarm with a couple of miles before "turtle". Just be aware you will need to keep records of total miles along with total GIDS used for your own driving habits, tires, inflation, use of heat and/or A/C, etc. etc. Since you have decided to use a limited range EV for your specific needs (that's a good thing!!), learning more about how driving habits affect the range is very important.

LeafSpy (Pro) does calculate range using miles/kWh, which you can set yourself. For me it ranges from 3.5 to over 4. However, I like GIDs because I can predict the actual range better based on previous experience of familiar routes and actual GIDs/Mile.

GerryAZ said:

You want to use Position 1 (330 ohm resistor) to keep heating elements from being energized inadvertently while using A/C. Position 2 (2.2 kohm resistor) would allow the heating elements to be energized, but keep the fluid temperature lower than normal. The OFF position allows the heating elements to heat the fluid normally and will reduce range under certain ambient temperature conditions. Therefore, I recommend Position 1 to avoid inadvertent heating element use unless you need heat. Choose Position 2 or OFF depending upon cabin heat/defrost needs. Use OFF to get maximum heating.

Click to expand...

Gerry,

Now that winter months are here, I feel like I will need to switch the adapter back to either "2" or "0", correct? I have noticed that even with my heat temperature setting to maximum (90), I'm not getting warm air out of the system. Please update about this change I may need to make. Thank You.

-Michael D.

Reading the above quote, you need "0" or "Off" depending on how it's labeled.

That is correct--you want the switch OFF to get maximum heat (will reduce range significantly).