HOW TO: Make the VSP (noisemaker) button default to off

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
GeekEV said:
OK, just in case he doesn't get to it, can you tell me which pins do what on your original diagram? Pin 1 seems pretty clear to be ground. Is pin 11 the +12v input trigger? And pin 5 the button press output? Is the output pin positive or negative? Based on my interpretation of the TR-7 functionality, I'm hoping it's a case of connect the +12 input to the negative output...

Thanks man!


Oh, sorry. Red/11 is power (but it's switched ignition power) and black/1 is ground. When you press the button, a ground is put on 5(green).

If you need constant power, that's the blue on pin 13

Looking at the back (wire entry) of the connector, the "key" in the up position, there should be an empty terminal on the bottom right.

The wiring goes
Code:
8 | 7| 6| 5| 4| 3| 2| 1
16|15|14|13|12|11|10| X
 
Perfect, thanks! So my second guess at the wiring would seem to be correct. I'll give it a go when I get my TR-7 in and will update this thread.
 
I think you'll need 4 wires. You'll need to power the module with constant power and use the switched power as the trigger. or you may be able to power the module and trigger with the switched ignition power. So you'd tie two wires from the module together and connect to pin 11.
 
Looking at it again, I think you're right. I was looking at their sample diagrams on page 4, but the seem to be ignoring the black and red completely on all of those, so...
 
Guys, I'll post the wiring for the TR7 shortly. Just tell me, what happens when the button is pushed? Is a certain pin shorted to ground?

Nate
 
When you press the button pin 5 (green) is grounded for as long as you press the button.

Also know there is a 5V pullup on the line. I was surprised to see that its 5V and not 12, but that just means that connecting 12V to the line will probably damage the controller.
 
Turbo, you mean if the TR7 applies voltage to the line, we'll damage the car? Or you mean 12 volts will run through the TR7 when we ground that pin?

Nate
 
It just surprised me that the pullup was 5V. That leads me to believe it may be a logic level input with a direct connection to the microprocessor. I don't know for sure and it's certainly not the norm for an automotive grade product. But if the module puts out 12V on the trigger line, it could blow the controller. The instructions say there are two outputs that throw a ground, I'd just confirm that its completely open (no ground, no power) when powered but not triggered before connecting it to the car..
 
Good point. We can always do a relay if need be. I shipped the two that I have to Geek, so he'll have to test it.

(Geek, are you listening?)

Nate
 
So, for the TR7, try mode 9. Then, attach the red wire to constant +12v (batt), the black wire to Ground (-), the green wire to the ignition-on (some wire that's hot when the car is "ready"), and the white wire to the button press (that will cause the button to be grounded, just like actually pressing the button).

Cap the other wires with electrical tape, and don't let them short together.

Geek, please check that there is no power on the white wire when the module is powered. (doubtful).

Nate
 
Now to figure out how to unlock the doors when you put it in park.. heh

I find it incredibly annoying to automatically be locked in the car. Twice a day I get out to get the mail and twice a day I pull on the handle and the door doesn't open. Better yet, I should look to see if there is a discrete signal that triggers the lock when you get to a speed, or if the lock module picks it up off the can bus...
 
Ok, I'll be sure to ask for help if I need it. So just to be clear, we want the TR-7 white wire to be open when not triggered, grounded when it is, not passing the 12v... And that all we need to do is ground pin 5 not pass it voltage? So if it works as expected, connecting the white to pin 5 should work. If the white wire does pass voltage, we'll need a relay in there... Ya?
 
turbo2ltr said:
Now to figure out how to unlock the doors when you put it in park.. heh
I appreciate all the help an effort on this, but let's be good netizens and not hijack the thread... :D
 
GeekEV said:
Ok, I'll be sure to ask for help if I need it. So just to be clear, we want the TR-7 white wire to be open when not triggered, grounded when it is, not passing the 12v... And that all we need to do is ground pin 5 not pass it voltage? So if it works as expected, connecting the white to pin 5 should work. If the white wire does pass voltage, we'll need a relay in there... Ya?


Sounds right to me.
 
Geek, yes, that's right.

As for automatic locks, start a new thread and I'll contribute.

Nate
 
By the way, here are my favorite wire taps. They make little female connections when crimped onto the wire:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-3MT-R-100-22-18-Gauge-T-Tap/dp/B00152RH4O/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I162VIHI9ZTVF2&colid=3LM6SK02JOLQ

Then you put these on the end of the connecting wire:

http://www.amazon.com/American-Terminal-FMR250N-100-Fully-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B001768788/ref=pd_sim_auto_3

and then just plug the thing in!

Nate
 
please for the love of all things electrical, don't use these things. Sorry nate but I have to dissagree with you. I've seen this type of connection partially fail so many times it's not funny. And it's really annoying trying to track down an intermitten or marginal connection.
 
turbo2ltr said:
I find it incredibly annoying to automatically be locked in the car. Twice a day I get out to get the mail and twice a day I pull on the handle and the door doesn't open.
Hmmm ... I don't remember doing that. It opens automatically when I switch off the car.
 
Right. But he's saying just put in park for a moment while you hop out to check the mail and you're still locked in. It is a tad annoying, but not enough to really bother me.
 
Turbo, what is your connector preference? Other than an OEM connector, of course...
 
Back
Top