Welcome. If you are leaving the car plugged in after charging is done, for hours at a time, and frequently, that is killing the 12 volt battery. It's poor designing, but it's a known issue.

I think he was confusing the inverter/PDM/motor coolant loop with the battery.

$6k is reasonable for a 2011 with a good-not-great battery and that odometer reading, especially if it's cosmetically nice. $5k might be closer if the car has dings and upholstery damage. This is all subject to things like EV popularity and availability in your area.

Welcome. Yes, there is a starting type 12 volt battery in the Leaf, along with most other EVs. If there is an outlet nearby, your best option is to connect a 12 volt external battery maintainer, leaving the battery installed in the car and connected.

Toby wrote: ↑Tue Nov 07, 2023 2:43 pm I've wondered about using Michelin X-Ice tires and running them all year.

I ran mine one Summer, and at least in a gentle use case, they hold up fine.

It can be considered to be a design flaw to have the 12 volt battery, which is needed to start the car, remain a critical component while driving.

I had to update LeafSpy Pro to get rid of the quirk. IIRC, the quick setting change is changing kilometers to miles.

People have installed lithium iron (LiFePO4) batteries, with good results, in warmer climates. Most replacements, though, if they aren't OEM type flooded cell batteries, are AGM type, which work better in the Leaf than the OEM.

This sounds like one or more cells in the battery are going South. You need to use LeafSpy Pro to get a depiction of the battery cells and the voltage variations between them. Hawaii is kind of deceptive, in that while you don't usually get extreme heat, the generally warm/very warm nights prevent t...

What's happening is that Nissan, claiming to be short on 40kwh packs, is offering to buy the cars back. There is negotiation involved, so if they offer that, don't accept their first $ offer as their final one.