Search results

Did you get the fdti cable? You can reflash the unit to use a different base amps. Would be interested to see what it shows up on the screen

The car dictates the amps it wants. So if your over 80% it usually lowers. Try it when it's 50% and it should go higher in amps.

2 wires for power and 2 wires to the current sensor. Very quick and easy!

I actually have a Schneider electric inventor but it didn't last long today. After. 20 min it overheated and went up in smoke :( Can't say I'm itching to burn up another one yet :/

Backround is my power was out for 15 hours due to the ice storm and I don't want to relive it. If I produced a square wave would I be able to flow the 220v out of the leaf? Research shows in japan they do it often but wasn't sure what mechanics it would take. Anyone have a clue?

Dave , I got the display on ebay. Think it was !$20 or so. Look for Ac amp meter. Just make sure it's 220v The current side is from a circle that I ran one of the j1772 cables through. The power I got from the relay when it closes and feeds the car. Easy mod. Takes 10 min!

Ya" give me a few days and I'll see what I can do. Right now I'm in CA for work and have to get back to Atl when the ice thaws.

Bump.. Any comments on temps?

Thanks Chris! Here is a video I shot showing the temperature of each parts. Looks like between the contactor's at the top gets the warmest. Since its under 100 I'm not very concerned but figured I would ask. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtOTG-xrXkg&feature=youtube_gdata_player"...

Thanks! This one has mr scratching my head. Wondering if I should change to a different relay/contactor?

Guys- is the case on your job getting warm after an hour of being on? Mine is probably 30 degrees warmer than the surroundings at 30 amps. That OK? No fire risk?

So the 208 volt problem I have as well. I don't think its major. Just a calibration range. So the end timer is always interesting because the documentation sucks that comes with the car. You may know this already but the onboard timer plans to have the car fully charged at the end time. It...

Have you tried to change the current limit and see if that changes anything ? I have seen that happen frequently when wires are either punctured with nails or if there is a join and a resonant frequency emerges. All your screws tight on the power panel? Breaker? I would try turning the JB...

Thats gold!! Thanks Ill see what they will do!

Also - do you have a premium or base model? I could possibly see an issue if its a premium and you had the timer set. After losing power it may have lost the time. Looks like Joe may have nailed it if its a base edition.

Just woke up to check it, looks like it hit the code but the charger fault light in the car still went off

Sorry hectic day here :/ change that to a 0.

I looked at it a second ago and thought it looked wrong. Below is stock firmware + the while loop logic if(state==STATE_C) { // vehicle requested NON-VENTILATED power - this is our MONEY state int ctrlBtn_cnt=0; // commence charging...

Based on what Ive heard here I can probably make my code much simplier. I found this code in the firmware for pushing a button and turning off the charger to disconnect the car: Timer1.setPwmDuty(pin_PWM, PWM_res); // this should produce a steady +12V signal on a pilot pin So what I would do...

I have 245~246 before and 238v when charging. It drops 7 V. so 201watts is converted to heat ?