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It's actually easiest to use a subpanel to "split" the power when doing the power sharing thing. You run your 50a feeder (or whatever size) circuit into the subpanel, then two more 50a circuits from the subpanel to each EVSE. The EVSEs manage the load so you don't overdraw the feeder circuit.

There's no point in counting the original price as that's a sunk cost and has no bearing on whether the battery replacement is worthwhile monitarily...not that I think you're necessarily wrong to pass on the new battery. I would think it should be possible to find a used TCU from a salvage...

If I were doing this, I'd go ahead and connect a button and some sort of LED output to the CAN board rather than do this sort of kludge. If there's a spare async port available, you could even do a little 4 line LCD display and be able to display all sorts of battery info that's normally hidden...

It's not why you have the fault, but you will overload the 30a dryer circuit this way. It may work for a while, but code is really clear that an EV isn't supposed to pull more than 24a from a 30a circuit. Your Blink will pull 30a. If you're lucky, the breaker will trip, if not, you could have a...

Asked and answered. The answer is, "No.". People have wired in external chargers and extra batteries and used those while driving, but the internal J1772 is not active, and since it has to interact with the BMS while charging, it's not likely to be easily hackable.

If it were me, I'd get a portable L2 and find an RV campground en route willing to rent you charging time. Another thought is to use Plugshare to see if any private parties have offered to share their L2 between the two points.

I never said time passing alone. I said it was a "function of time and CLIMATE". Which isn't much different from what you said since there's no way that time isn't a factor in "heat and long term high states of charge". It certainly doesn't invalidate my main point which is that mileage is...

Why would Nissan help you take the car to CarMax? Honestly, I think you're either going to have to find some way to charge on the way, or plan to pay to have it transported...or find someone closer than CarMax to sell it to.

The car was probably already on the edge of losing that bar. Battery degradation in these cars is a function of time and climate rather than mileage, so the fact your car is low mileage is not really helpful. While you will see endless threads about charging to certain levels or how bad it is...

The first thing to do is basic troubleshooting. In the case you need to figure out whether it's the EVSE (not charger, that's inside the car), or the car. The simplest way is to visit a public L2 station and try to charge. If that works, then it's probably your L1 unit. If you know someone else...

I'm quite sure the AC connection is not interrupted by the button. It's not necessary for it to be. That would only happen when the plug is removed and the pilot signal gets disconnected. When the button is pressed the charger just has to stop supplying current to the battery. I doubt this was...

The early LEAFs certainly DO heed the proximity pin. What they don't do is unnecessarily turn off the contactor in the EVSE. They instead simply kill the current draw, which is all that is required to prevent arcing. You can verify this with a current meter. When you press the button the current...

Are we just quietly assuming that this magic battery will fit in the same space as the existing one and weigh the same, or are we talking about losing interior space and significantly increasing the weight as well? If the car loses utility as well, the idea gets that much worse. I agree with...

They call it SECURE digital for a reason. If you use the security features, you can't access it without the right key.

They call it Secure Digital for a reason. The software is keyed to the card and you can't just copy it and have it work, otherwise people would be selling copies left and right.

The long term lot I use has 10-15 spaces that have 5-20s that turn on at night plus a similar number of Tesla wall connectors. You simply park there and don't worry about the length of time. They also have a small number of L2s in their valet lot. The OP needs to check with the lot that they are...

Yeah, because there are NO other ways to get anywhere in an emergency. :roll: Taxis, Rideshare, and ambulances are all still available... also since they warned people in advance, they could always charge up and then conserve the battery for evacuation.

Another idea that occurred to me was adding a switch mounted on the outside of the EVSE, either connected to an input on the Arduino or (if you want to be more failsafe) between the Arduino and the relay, that would override the timer and force the EVSE to be on. That way if you need to charge...

Sounds great. You might want to add hourly checks during the charging period to handle weird cases like plugging in after the start time.

You might be able to use something like this and just control it directly from your phone: https://www.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG