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By way of an update, I started receiving complaints from people, so I listened again and there was some unwanted feedback. I put the little contraption back in and the sound improved. But it's not like you won't get any sound if you don't have it -- just has a bit of a "voice changer" quality...

Just seeing this -- it all works fine for me, but I'm unsure what you did. If you still need help, post up and I'll try to check back here soon. -N

...answered my own question...sort of... so I took the contraption out of the line and hooked the mic straight to the radio. Still garbled. Then I switched the pins. Worked like a charm with no caps or resistors. Unsure what the deal is, but since it works, I'm happy. -N

OK, so I'm at a loss. I followed (I think) your schematic, but all I get is HISS from the mic with a little bit of garbled garbage in the background, so I assume I have a hot mic. Just to be clear, the capacitor goes positive leg first from the mic, then to the 100kohm resistor on to the TIP...

Thanks so much for replying! OK, the picture is getting clearer - so the terminals I see of 24 and 25 that I see in my 2013 schematic must be the "old" wires chumpp refers to. I can just pin those on the harness and connect them to the mic jack - so long as I can route +5 to the trunk and put...

... and to clarify, I've stared at the wiring diagrams (I have a 2013) and it would appear that the mic terminal pins are not the 37/38/39 (which are indicated to be in the harness) that "carstereo" posted... the service manual states Connector M84 [AUDIO UNIT] contains terminal 24/R - Tel...

This is a brilliant solution, but I'm not brilliant enough to divine where this is supposed to happen based on pin numbers --- is this fix performed at the rear of the head unit, or at the BCM in the trunk? I'm trying to visualize where I'm supposed to splice in these components. Any help...