2013 Leaf S AZE0 Heater issues

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I have some photos, but evidently I’m not allowed to post them yet.
Pics would be great. I suggest using flickr for posting pics, then you can always post in any forum. A free account is friendly and easy to use, and you can make albums for your different projects. Pics can be public or private as well.
 
Wasn’t excited about it being cut, disassembled old ptc heater, found it impossible to swap the leads.

I re connected the shielding as well.

A year and a half after the repair and I’m still warm.
 
I went searching for voltage ratings on crimp terminals, I was surprised what I saw.
Same item rated for 600 volt in US was only rated for 32 volt in Canada.
Most crimp terminal splices like you have were rated for 300 volt or less, sometimes much less!
The thing that scares me is the insulation. 400 VDC is nothing to play with and when an arc starts it doesn't stop until the ionized air gap is large enough.
Me, I would have replaced the whole cable as one piece.
why couldn't you use the original harness from the car, why did you have to splice?
 
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I went searching for voltage ratings on crimp terminals, I was surprised what I saw.
Same item rated for 600 volt in US was only rated for 32 volt in Canada.
Most crimp terminal splices like you have were rated for 300 volt or less, sometimes much less!
The thing that scares me is the insulation. 400 VDC is nothing to play with and when an arc starts it doesn't stop until the ionized air gap is large enough.
Me, I would have replaced the whole cable as one piece.
why couldn't you use the original harness from the car, why did you have to splice?
I disassembled the original PTC heater and was not able to come up with a cleaner way of attaching the cables at the PTC board without damaging it. I tried, I was reluctant as well.

I double wrapped ( down and back) the crimp with electrical tape before pulling the shield back over and reconnecting. Then shrink wrapped over.

Both connections are staggered and the wire loom wrap is back over it all.

This was not my preferred choice of repair. But thankful to have heat.

Curious about the differentiation between US and Can ratings. That is vast!

I am not opposed to looking at it again, or coming up with a better solution but I appreciate the input.
 
Yeah I thought that too. It definitely does not unplug from the element. I basically had to destroy the old unit. I was hoping the ends were bolted down internally, they were not. That whole thing is sealed/ epoxied together and the circuit board it is attached to is buried in sealant. They must have been worried about water intrusion.

I looked up the connector I used and it is listed as UL 486C approved for 600v with a max of 1000v.

Honestly I was surprised how small the conductor in those wires were.
 
Sorry for the delay, hope this works.
Great pics. Can't see the actual soldering job under the shrink tube, but otherwise it looks good. 400 V is not a high voltage (although lethal enough) and as long as you have at least 1 mm of high quality insulation and it is water proof, you should be good.
 
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