2014 Leaf won't shift from park - T/M System Malfunction, HV battery charging indicator not working, battery also probably not charging!

[jaydoc]

Like title says, my 2014 Nissan Leaf won't shift to any gear from park, and the green car ready icon won't turn on. The error message on the dash is T/M system malfunction, and there are plenty of error lights showing up on the dash. The same thing happened a few days ago, and after I looked around for my OBD device and could not find it anywhere and gave up and tried to restart the car after a while it started up fine and I was able to drive it without any issues!

However, this evening the same thing happened again, and thankfully I was able to find my OBD-II device, use LeafSpy Pro and pull off these DTC codes from it.

From what I was able to find out it looks like this maybe due to a faulty 12V battery. Is that true?

If so, what would be a good replacement that I can use, and how can I "DIY" this replacement procedure?
I have never had any issues with this car before. Thanks for any help.

 

[nlspace]

What's the age of your 12V battery? An old, weak or worn out battery can cause a multitude of faults such as you have found.

You might be able to charge it up, but if it is old then it may not hold a charge anymore and would need to be replaced, and the new battery should be fully charged before you put it into service. Batteries self-discharge while waiting on the shelf.

Even a cheap-as voltmeter can be a useful tool for troubleshooting battery faults. There are likely plenty of yu-toob videos showing how to diy replace a battery if you have never done this.

 

[LanguidSphinx]

It has entered the Leaf community collective consciousness that the first thing to suspect is always the 12V battery....

Everyone's situation is different of course, but if you just wanted it changed on suspicion, a local auto shop should be able to supply and fit a new on in a couple of minutes in the parking lot in exchange for money This is going to be quickest, easiest, and most expensive.

To reduce cost you can hunt around for a compatible battery at the best price - the battery manufacturer websites have cross references and lookup features. You can also go to an auto store and ask them to look it up. You can then DIY change it if you are at all handy.

To really reduce the chance of spending unnecessarily, you can test the battery either with a multimeter yourself and some learning, or taking it to an auto store that offers this (at which point you are taking it out the car already anyway).

Given the number of posts just on this forum, nevermind elsewhere - unless it's only a couple of years old, I'd start with replacing the 12V battery before putting in much more effort, because it's very likely the problem.

 

[cornbinder89]

Too many error codes, it tends to indicate a low 12 volt, Charge the 12 volt overnight, load test, and make sure the battery cable end s are clean and tight.
Once you know the 12 volt can hold a charge and pass a load test, then we can clear all the codes (If you disconnected it to clean the cable, you have already cleared the codes by doing that) and move on to what if any codes re appear.
Take it once step at a time, start with the 12 volt condition, rule that in or out.

 

[jaydoc]

Thanks all! I opened the hood (I can't believe this is the first time I have done this in 8 years of owning this car!) and removed the 12V battery and replaced it with a new lead Acid 51R battery. The T/M system malfunction message is now gone, the car shifts into gear and the traction battery is now recharging!

Having said all this, I must also add that all this happened as I am getting ready to sell the car. It has around 60% of the original battery capacity and so It is unable to go more than 60 miles or so on a full charge. It has been my trusty steed for more than 8 years now, but it is time to find a new car!

 

[LanguidSphinx]

The T/M system malfunction message is now gone, the car shifts into gear and the traction battery is now recharging!

Thanks for closing the thread with the final answer! Adds another notch on the bedpost of "it's always the 12V battery"

 

[cornbinder89]

Thanks for closing the thread with the final answer! Adds another notch on the bedpost of "it's always the 12V battery"

Not really, this one was, and with the symptoms it was the most likely culprit. That hasn't been true for many problems. We often hear "I replaced the 12 volt and it is still malfunctioning". In those cases that $100 or so could be better spent.
Telling clues, were he got it working one day and the next the problem came back, along with a long list of communications errors.
To quote NLspace quoting the manual, every diagnoses procedure starts with making sure there is enough charge on the 12 volt.
I will point out, the manual does not say to replace the 12 volt! If there is a problem with the DC to DC charging, you will not be solving the problem, but kicking the can down the road to bite you again.
SOP is charge, test and make sure cable end are clean, then move on. If it fails the charge and test, then replace.