2015 24 kWh Resurrection possible or Scrap?

[NewcastleFalcon]

If members can assist with a bit of interpretation of this problem I would be most grateful.

Excellent car Nissan Leaf Acenta 6.6 kW charger/Heat Pump 50K miles/5 years in my ownership, now immobile. I have already taken the necessary action and replaced it with a 2023 16,000 mile Nissan Leaf. I have an offer from an EV breakers for the 2015 immobile car, and the economics/time of bothering to try to fix it is heavily weighing towards the recycling option.

The immobility is no chimes no start up and this is what the RAC recovery and my own Leaf spy DTC list produced. Find it hard to believe that the systems throwing faults are due to failed hardware components. To me they look like consequent faults of the failure of the switch on procedure. Leaf spy nor the RAC recovery could clear the codes from reappearing.

Leaf spy doesn't even see the traction battery. Prior to the failure the car had done 82000 miles and the battery showed 11 bars SOH, and was subject to a very gentle charging regime.

 

[woeful]

Several CAN circuit errors; if it's not a failed 12V battery, my second guess is that there's wiring damage to the CAN wires. Maybe rodent or other animal teeth?

 

[NewcastleFalcon]

Thanks for your reply. The 12V read over 12V at the time, and tried another 12V battery, granted not in the first flush of youth which was charged up to 12.6 ish. Haven't tried a brand new battery but I would be surprised if that resolved the problem, but great if it did of course!

The no chimes and the "press the brake pedal" message not being overcome by pressing the brake has me thinking the problem is right at the start of the start up process.

Brake light switch seems to do what it should do...brake lights come on as the "switch" pops out when the brake pedal is pressed.

I wonder what the order of activation of the normal start up process is in terms of signals correctly activating the various "control units" and whether continuity of wiring can be traced logically.

Neil

 

[nlspace]

12V battery not sufficient for starting. All those DTCs, the very first step is to check the voltage of the 12V battery.
The Uxxxx codes are related to the CAN Buss communications network. Nothing will work on the car until that is working. #1 cause is due to weak 12V battery.

 

[NewcastleFalcon]

That would indeed be music to my ears, I have another battery to give that a try, not new but well charged up and currently on my ICE back up vehicle, and reading 10.5 V with a multimeter on that vehicle.

Neil

 

[decimal]

In a situation like this I'd put a brand new 12V battery in the car just to rule-out such a simple solution.
It probably wouldn't have helped in this case, but it would have been worth £50 just to be sure.

 

[NewcastleFalcon]

That would indeed be music to my ears, I have another battery to give that a try, not new but well charged up and currently on my ICE back up vehicle, and reading 10.5 V with a multimeter on that vehicle.

Neil

Of course I meant 12.5V.

£45 gets me a new Battery of the right Spec, from a budget brand, so I may give that a go but less than confident it will resolve the problem.

A decent logical test sequence for the start up process could help pinpoint the problem. In the absence of anything else I may kick off with the first required element in the chain, the brake pedal switch. Definitely does the lights bit but doesnt seem to give the OK to do the start-up if the screen message is to be believed.

Neil

 

[nlspace]

The CAN errors will prevent starting driving charging.

Wiring harness issues such as rodent damage, or connector contact corrosion are common causes of this fault. Pull/check all the fuses and relays.

Do you live in a high humidity area? A temperature swing can cause warm moist air to condense on cold metal surfaces, such as contacts inside connectors.

The CAN Buss is active and working somewhat or else you wouldn't be able to connect with the OBDII dongle to get the DTCs.

If the 12V power supply was too low then there would likely be a DTC thrown for that fault too.

Here is a wiring diagram from a 2018 that might help get started tracing wiring.

 

[NewcastleFalcon]

Thanks for the diagram. On another thread on this forum Noah J reported a similar list of codes to mine resolved by a 12V Battery disconnect/reconnect. So far this hasn't worked for mine.

The screen on second turn on without footbrake pressed also pretty much mimics mine. No Battery Temp/SOH/SOC and warning lights on EV System/ Braking System.

user name Noah J

Will try the disconnect. In the meantime I have gotten the DTC while waiting for an answer. 2 readings, one before clearing and one after. Have not disconnected the battery yet...

BEFORE CLEARING

C118C-01 09 ABS EV/HEV System BRC-126
B142A-16 08 AIR BAG
U1000-00 08 BCM CAN Comm Circuit
B2562-00 08 BCM Low Voltage BCS-69
C1704-00 09 BCM Low Pressure FL WT-26
C1705-00 09 BCM Low Pressure FR WT-26
C1706-00 09 BCM Low Pressure RR WT-26
C1707-00 09 BCM Low Pressure RL WT-26
C1A62-01 08 BRAKE Control Mod Pwr Supply BR-53
C1A6E-01 09 BRAKE EV/HEV System BR-146
C1A70-01 09 BRAKE Brake Control System BR-160
U1000-87 09 CHARGER CAN Comm Circuit
U100A-87 08 CHARGER
Ok None ---> EPS
P3193-00 0B EV/HEV CAN Error TMS-73
U1000-00 0B EV/HEV CAN Comm Circuit
P3100-00 0B EV/HEV Comm Error EVC-198
P3178-00 0B EV/HEV ECU Activation Err EVC-245
P3171-00 0B EV/HEV PD Module System EVC-241
P3170-00 0B EV/HEV PD Module System EVC-241
P316C-00 0B EV/HEV PD Module System EVC-238
Ok None ---> HVAC
Ok None ---> IPDM E/R
Ok None ---> METER
P0A1B-00 08 MOTOR CONTROL Drive Motor A Cntrl Mod TMS-46
P3193-00 0A MOTOR CONTROL CAN Error TMS-73
U1000-00 0A MOTOR CONTROL CAN Comm Circuit
U1263-02 08 MULTI AV USB Overcurrent AV-91
P189D-00 08 SHIFT
P1811-00 08 SHIFT Elec Shift Pwr Supply Relay TM-79
U1A00-00 08 TCU ACC No Conn AV-194
U1000-00 0B TCU CAN Comm Circuit
Ok None ---> VSP

AFTER CLEARING

C118C-01 09 ABS EV/HEV System BRC-126
Ok None ---> AIR BAG
Ok None ---> BCM
C1A6E-01 09 BRAKE EV/HEV System BR-146
C1A70-01 09 BRAKE Brake Control System BR-160
U1000-87 09 CHARGER CAN Comm Circuit
Ok None ---> EPS
P3193-00 0B EV/HEV CAN Error TMS-73
U1000-00 0B EV/HEV CAN Comm Circuit
P3171-00 0B EV/HEV PD Module System EVC-241
P3170-00 0B EV/HEV PD Module System EVC-241
P316C-00 0B EV/HEV PD Module System EVC-238
Ok None ---> HVAC
Ok None ---> IPDM E/R
Ok None ---> METER
P3193-00 0A MOTOR CONTROL CAN Error TMS-73
U1000-00 0A MOTOR CONTROL CAN Comm Circuit
Ok None ---> MULTI AV
Ok None ---> SHIFT
U1000-00 0B TCU CAN Comm Circuit
Ok None --->

Will disconnect the battery next.

Neil

 

[nlspace]

Red battery warning on left side ==>issue with 12V battery

Empty instrument panel, no RR, no capacity bars, no SOC bars, no temperature bars ==> CAN Buss issue

 

[NewcastleFalcon]

Red battery warning on left side ==>issue with 12V battery

Empty instrument panel, no RR, no capacity bars, no SOC bars, no temperature bars ==> CAN Buss issue

The car has been sitting without 12V battery for a day now, and I have a charged up 12V battery taken from my ICE back up car which reads 12.93V with a multimeter right now.

at some point today I will refit it, and see what effect it has and take a picture of the display. It should eliminate the "Red Battery" if nothing else, although that picture is from Noah J's car not mine, and I cant remember if the Red Battery was showing on mine.

Thanks Neil

 

[NewcastleFalcon]

The recharged battery didn't resolve the no start, computer says no problem.

Pretty much the same trouble codes...and the screen although showing a red battery at the two on button screen, maybe that's just "normal" and extinguishes when the system goes to the green car with the on button press and a brake pedal press.

The pictures

 

[cornbinder89]

If members can assist with a bit of interpretation of this problem I would be most grateful.



The immobility is no chimes no start up and this is what the RAC recovery and my own Leaf spy DTC list produced. Find it hard to believe that the systems throwing faults are due to failed hardware components. To me they look like consequent faults of the failure of the switch on procedure. Leaf spy nor the RAC recovery could clear the codes from reappearing.

Leaf spy doesn't even see the traction battery. Prior to the failure the car had done 82000 miles and the battery showed 11 bars SOH, and was subject to a very gentle charging regime.

Going back to your 1st post, the clues that jump out are L/S doesn't "see the traction battery" and will not clear codes.
This sounds most like a Can-buss failure. " Son, we have a failure to communicate"!
There are checks for resistance on the Can buss that someone smarter than I can suggest, to see if there is a short or open on the Can buss.
It is also possible that a failure of one of the components on the Can-buss is bringing all the communication to a stand still.
1st thing to look for is damaged wiring anywhere.
I know of someone who repairs "lightening struck" cars, and although he does ICE cars, the symptoms are very similar. He removes ties to the Can buss one at a time until some communication is restored, then zeros in on the item that brought the buss down. Labor intensive, but he is successful where most others fail.

Whether it is worth your time and effort, is a decision only you can make. The battery alone makes the car worth breaking for parts. Especially if Dala's connector would allow you to "leafspy" the battery by itself to a prospective buyer.
Normally I don't jump to Can Buss as my 1st guess, but what you can and cannot see on Leafspy make me think this may be the exception to the rule.

 

[nlspace]

There is a fat black wiring harness in the engine compartment. Trace it out to where it plugs in to the PDM and Motor Inverter, then disconnect those plugs and inspect the contacts for corrosion, also inspect for any rodent damage to the wires.

F23 is a gray connector into the back of the PDM


Fat black harness

 

[NewcastleFalcon]

Going back to your 1st post, the clues that jump out are L/S doesn't "see the traction battery" and will not clear codes.
This sounds most like a Can-buss failure. " Son, we have a failure to communicate"!
There are checks for resistance on the Can buss that someone smarter than I can suggest, to see if there is a short or open on the Can buss.
It is also possible that a failure of one of the components on the Can-buss is bringing all the communication to a stand still.
1st thing to look for is damaged wiring anywhere.
I know of someone who repairs "lightening struck" cars, and although he does ICE cars, the symptoms are very similar. He removes ties to the Can buss one at a time until some communication is restored, then zeros in on the item that brought the buss down. Labor intensive, but he is successful where most others fail.

Whether it is worth your time and effort, is a decision only you can make. The battery alone makes the car worth breaking for parts. Especially if Dala's connector would allow you to "leafspy" the battery by itself to a prospective buyer.
Normally I don't jump to Can Buss as my 1st guess, but what you can and cannot see on Leafspy make me think this may be the exception to the rule.

Very much appreciate your response. I am running the resurrection quest on both here and on SpeakEV. CanBus very much getting an airing on that thread, and the initial test at the VCM of resistance...just have to locate it on a RHD car!

Thanks Neil

 

[PaulNewall]

I think that VCM and BCM are behind the glove box.
Also look for water leaks causing shorts or corrosion on connectors. I had problems switching on and off due to water on a BCM connector.

 

[NewcastleFalcon]

I think that VCM and BCM are behind the glove box.
Also look for water leaks causing shorts or corrosion on connectors. I had problems switching on and off due to water on a BCM connector.

Thanks, having had a quick scan through the many pages in the official manual dedicated to the VCM and its functions, if it isn't wiring/connectors/power supply then nothing inside the VCM box will be remotely fixable!

Neil

 

[NewcastleFalcon]

With a simple 12V battery change not producing the results to revive the 2015 Leaf, over to a check of the canbus continuity. Found the VCM behind the glovebox on the RHD car and eventually managed to successfully remove the connectors. Simple job, but not if you are a little cautious about breaking the plastic levers and unsure of applying too much force.

So this is the state of play, just need to ponder over which of the holes in the black connector are 24 and 25.

 

[nlspace]

The FSM is showing the numbering from the Harness Side, that is to say from the back side of the black connector.

So from the front, 24 25 are the first two sockets at the far left below the top left slot as shown in your picture. There appears to be a blue dot above 24.

Unscrew the gray connector F23 over on the back corner of the PDM, see what it looks like all up in there,

 

[NewcastleFalcon]

Thanks re the connector, I should be able to get a better picture in the morning. The brown one had 13 Letter identifiers and identified one of the 5 rows as no 5.

I had a brief look around the "motor" bay, and couldn't find the location of F23 and assumed it was "round the back" and difficult to get to! I'll have another look.

Neil