2018 and newer: where is the J1772 handshake happening (296b1-5sa0a L1/L2 port harness thoughts)

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CanadianBear

Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2024
Messages
6
Location
Toronto
I'm having some issues with L1/L2 charging, and was researching the topic in the last few weeks, so decided to share with the community.

I have a 2018 SL 40kWh 60k since not too long, great car, not perfect, but overall quite good. Was charging L2 around the city, until it stopped accepting charge few weeks ago. L3 works fine.

Brought it to the local EV shop, who diagnosed that PDM needs replacement. No sh* Sherlock, let's just buy a new car altogether. While I wait for the right used PDM to pop up, decided to research the topic myself. The car attempts to start charging, 1st or 2nd blue light starts blinking (depending on the SOC at the time), battery connectors underneath the car clink, EVSE clinks, and then nothing happen for exactly 1m50sec, when the whole thing disconnects and go dark. No power drawn.

This tells me that the proximity pilot works, and the control pilot does not. I don't have the actual DTCs to support it, but I don't think the diagnostic is that good anyway to pinpoint the exact failing component.

As I understand the J1772 protocol, once the proximity is confirmed, the protocol has another three-step security protocol, ensured by the diode, 2.7kOhm resistor and 1.3kOhm resistor (abundantly explained on OpenEVSE and elsewhere). Looks like older Leafs had at least some of these steps (like the diode check) performed on the circuit board in the PDM, which was a bit naive, but early days anyway. I was looking in particular at the 296b1-5sa0a harness assembly that runs from the J1772 female socket (on the car) to the PDM. Without disassembling it myself (I'm driving the car daily), and looking through the PDM teardowns and pictures of harnesses for sale, I come to quite strong conclusion that only three wires enter the PDM from the 296b1-5sa0a harness: hot, neutral and ground (on the exterior).

Logically then, the J1772 three-step handshake (12v down to 9v down to 6v part) is occurring somewhere outside of the PDM. It happens either in the black boot on the inside part of J1772 port, or via the black wire that goes from the main L1/L2 harness within 40cm or so from the inside of the port.

Before I start tearing down the port, was wondering if someone has tried it already and has come to a different answer. Basically, replacing the PDM feels like a lazy solution because the L1/L2 port harness connects to the inside of the PDM, and both are most likely sold together as one piece. It would be funny if many PDMs got replaced because of a bad J1772 protocol handshake, that occurs completely outside of the PDM.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Replied in the other thread to your post; control lines indeed do go to the control board inside the PDM.

You symptoms point to an open circuit on the AC input section of the PDM on-board charger. If you can get a reading of DTCs, if any, then it will indicate if there is a deeper component issue in the power section, or if my somewhat educated guess is correct. No DTCs points to the AC input section; if anything in the power section (pfc, boost, H-bridge pwm switching) has failed then a DTC will be thrown. There are some other threads that go into details of the PDM, do a search for my posts on this subject to find them. For example, https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/po...technical-notes-and-details.35626/post-644387
 
U1027-2308 Charger DTC

The rest of theLeafSpy is pretty clean, 90% SOH with 66k km 2018 model, 1,000+ L1/L2 and just 12 QCs.

I managed to find a shop with spare PDMs and willing to open my PDM - will keep you posted on how it goes.
 
Quick update - spent some time in a local EV shop few weeks ago. Gen. 3 PDM is actually in two layers - we opened the first (top) one, strong smell, but everything looked pristine. The guy tested few parts, even thought about replacing the main cable to the female 1772, nothing conclusive. The second (lower) part of the PDM is liquid cooled and quite a bit more sealed. Since he had a used replacement part sitting on the shelf, decided to replace the whole thing as otherwise the investigation could end up taking more hourly $ than the replacement part. Smooth experience overall, not dramatically different from an oil pump or similar work on an ICE, but need to (i) have shops knowledgeable about the very specific EV you are coming with, (ii) have parts available right away.
 
And all is good now?

On the PDM board that the AC lines enter, one of those white ceramic resistors has an internal fuse. If that goes open then no AC gets past that "dumb" board. Just one of several causes of the 1m:50s no charge timeout.
 
Yes all works, I was out mid-afternoon.

Tried a few things in the upper part of the PDM, but after few hours, it's more economical to replace the part.
 
Quick update - spent some time in a local EV shop few weeks ago. Gen. 3 PDM is actually in two layers - we opened the first (top) one, strong smell, but everything looked pristine. The guy tested few parts, even thought about replacing the main cable to the female 1772, nothing conclusive. The second (lower) part of the PDM is liquid cooled and quite a bit more sealed. Since he had a used replacement part sitting on the shelf, decided to replace the whole thing as otherwise the investigation could end up taking more hourly $ than the replacement part. Smooth experience overall, not dramatically different from an oil pump or similar work on an ICE, but need to (i) have shops knowledgeable about the very specific EV you are coming with, (ii) have parts available right away.
Sounds like you found a good shop!
I think the independent EV shops are going to be far better than the dealerships as these car age.
Right knowledge, right tools, right parts.
 
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