juneau99803
Member
Our USA 2022 ZE1 (halogen headlights) has fore and aft turn signals/indicators. These indicators are essentially invisible to anyone not directly ahead or behind the car. Which means a pedestrian at a corner has a hard time knowing if the car beside them is intending to turn. Some models (e.g. the 'plus') include indicators on the mirrors. I was able to retro-fit these to our primitive model, which makes our intention to turn more visible to everyone.
Examination of the mirrors in our car revealed the physical mounting points for indicator lamps (yay). Examination of the wiring harnesses and connectors showed no signals in the doors (boo).
The parts needed are the mirror caps from the 'up market' version (which come bare and must be painted), a pair of LED indicator lamps from Ali Express, some wire, a couple of circuit-taps, one screw, and a few generic connectors. I used 3mm gold-plated 'banana' connectors on the wire to facilitate installation, and later disassembly (t could be done without those). I used some hinged 'vampire' taps (filled with dielectric grease) to get the signals I needed. I used 24g silicone wire to carry the signal.
In theory, the rear turn signal wire is right next to the mirror at the bottom of the A-pillar. In practice, there is no way to get that signal from the wiring harness to the outside of the A-pillar. It could be done by drilling a new hole (possible on the right side, but too many wires in the left A-pillar), or by cramming it through the high-density door connector (the way it is done at the factory). Therefore, I went to the connector at the front of the car and ran the signal back to the door through the fender. When making these taps, it is a good idea to tap on the "least expensive" side of the connector. My tap is, therefore, on the lamp-side of the connector; if I messed something up I only need to replace the wire leading to the front lamp rather than a engine-room harness.
The signal wire runs back through the fender, and is strain-relieved on one of the bolt-hole covers. This was done by popping the plug out, pressing the 24g wire into the groove in the plug, and pressing the plug back in. From there it follows the existing wiring to be punched in through a tiny hole in the rubber grommet. It was literally 'punched' though with a tiny awl. I anticipate no water leakage. The wire runs up through the door, following the existing wire harness into the mirror.
The LED indicator lamp is mounted using one existing screw, and one new screw (which goes into an open mounting hole). The signal for the indicator lamp comes from the newly-run wire, and the ground from the mirror defroster.
Examination of the mirrors in our car revealed the physical mounting points for indicator lamps (yay). Examination of the wiring harnesses and connectors showed no signals in the doors (boo).
The parts needed are the mirror caps from the 'up market' version (which come bare and must be painted), a pair of LED indicator lamps from Ali Express, some wire, a couple of circuit-taps, one screw, and a few generic connectors. I used 3mm gold-plated 'banana' connectors on the wire to facilitate installation, and later disassembly (t could be done without those). I used some hinged 'vampire' taps (filled with dielectric grease) to get the signals I needed. I used 24g silicone wire to carry the signal.
In theory, the rear turn signal wire is right next to the mirror at the bottom of the A-pillar. In practice, there is no way to get that signal from the wiring harness to the outside of the A-pillar. It could be done by drilling a new hole (possible on the right side, but too many wires in the left A-pillar), or by cramming it through the high-density door connector (the way it is done at the factory). Therefore, I went to the connector at the front of the car and ran the signal back to the door through the fender. When making these taps, it is a good idea to tap on the "least expensive" side of the connector. My tap is, therefore, on the lamp-side of the connector; if I messed something up I only need to replace the wire leading to the front lamp rather than a engine-room harness.
The signal wire runs back through the fender, and is strain-relieved on one of the bolt-hole covers. This was done by popping the plug out, pressing the 24g wire into the groove in the plug, and pressing the plug back in. From there it follows the existing wiring to be punched in through a tiny hole in the rubber grommet. It was literally 'punched' though with a tiny awl. I anticipate no water leakage. The wire runs up through the door, following the existing wire harness into the mirror.
The LED indicator lamp is mounted using one existing screw, and one new screw (which goes into an open mounting hole). The signal for the indicator lamp comes from the newly-run wire, and the ground from the mirror defroster.
