Blink evse: Where in the menu can you change "Max Current" setting?

[cwerdna]

IIRC, https://insideevs.com/news/318726/while-under-threat-from-oems-ecotality-turns-down-the-output-on-chargers-to-avoid-failures/ was turning them down to 24 amps. I wouldn't go higher than that unless you want to risk a melted inlet and plug like https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=10749.

 

[jjeff]

I'm envious your Volvo can charge up to 48a
It sounds like while your Blink can charge at higher currents it's not really recommended. Unfortunatly while it sounds like your OEM EVSE is capable of 48a you'd need a 60a breaker to feed it for continuous operation. If your wiring is truly rated for only 50a you'd have to step down to a 40a breaker which is really only good for 32a continuous. You might be able to find a 40a continuous rated breaker but as they don't make 50a breakers I know of, nothing could give you what your wiring is rated for(50a).

 

[Rat]

I'm envious your Volvo can charge up to 48a

Thanks to both of you for the info. The 48A speed is for the L2 cable that came with the car. It also has the CCS DC pins which is even faster, (not as fast as ChaDemo, I hear), but I haven't tried that out yet. I note that a 6-50P to 14-50R adapter is cheap and available and the car can be set to a max amp rating below 48 and within the 40A breaker capability. Then I could use the Volvo cable. That may be a simple solution.

 

[cwerdna]

It also has the CCS DC pins which is even faster, (not as fast as ChaDemo, I hear), but I haven't tried that out yet.

I can't speak to your vehicle but https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlrN-aS_jso (despite a bunch of unit problems) at 4:33 shows it hitting 261 kW.

At 150 kW stations, as I mentioned at https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=603054#p603054, I saw an e-Tron BEV hit 147 kW. These are on CCS. Too bad you didn't take advantage of free EA juice that day...

https://insideevs.com/news/495561/volkswagen-id4-dc-fast-charging-consistency-amazes/ is pretty impressive.

I doubt whatever Volvo is shipping with would be a plug-in unit that would deliver 48 amps as that would be well-above the safe max continuous load for a 50 amp outlet (e.g. NEMA 14-50 or 6-50). It's likely 40 amps max output.

 

[jjeff]

I'm envious your Volvo can charge up to 48a

Thanks to both of you for the info. The 48A speed is for the L2 cable that came with the car. It also has the CCS DC pins which is even faster, (not as fast as ChaDemo, I hear), but I haven't tried that out yet. I note that a 6-50P to 14-50R adapter is cheap and available and the car can be set to a max amp rating below 48 and within the 40A breaker capability. Then I could use the Volvo cable. That may be a simple solution.

Well as long as you can limit your EVSE to 80% of your breaker's rated capacity(in your case probably 32a unless you can find a 40a continuous rated breaker, in which case 40a) you should be fine with an adapter cable. I've built many adapter cables and as long as you don't pull more current through them than their wiring or plug can handle, you should be fine. Note a 50a plug should be capable of 50a continuous as well as the appropriate wiring but almost all breakers are limited to the 80% rule and again I've never seen a 50a breaker although they may be available??

 

[benjwhite9]

Reactivating an old thread. My Blink EVSE is still working fine after 13 years, and has been set for "max current 30A" the whole time. I've been charging my 2019 Leaf at 6.6kW with this EVSE for the last 5 years. I read the history of this thread back through 12/5/2016, and just as an exercise, I changed the device settings to "max current 24A," and then I charged. The car is still charging at a 6.6kW rate, as shown by the smart meter at the main panel. So, what's going on here? Is the Blink EVSE non-compliant with the J1772 standard, or is it the Leaf?

 

[benjwhite9]

Well, today I changed the setting to "max current 16A" and charged the car. The charge rate was definitely in the 4 kW range, so the last time I ran the experiment at 24A, I obviously was not paying attention to something. Possibly another appliance in the house was adding to the total shown on the smart meter. I'm now satisfied that the max current feature works.