Can you use a 2000W inverter for powering tools?

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While technically possible, the two vehicles don't produce power at the same rate, so I think this would fail with one of them resulting in a melted 12V battery or some damage to the 12V system. Without a way to limit the current between the two and the fact that most ICE 12V systems are limited to +1200 watts of power, the Leaf would would end up probably frying the 12V system on the ICE since it can easily produce +2000 watts of power.
 
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The limit is 2000 watts. The Leaf needs at least 300 watts to sit around idle in park (with nothing else running). That puts the safe extraction value at around 1500 watts (to account for efficiency loses). I've had it extract that much power for literal days at a time, so there is nothing for anyone to be afraid of as long as proper precautions are put into place.

I agree that you would not just use battery clamps and run that much power for days, that's why I use a hard wired system and why I always make sure to mention that. ;)

I've been doing this since 2015 with the Gen 1 Leaf and Gen 2 Leaf more recently, my math and electrical knowledge is solid. :)

Anyone who claims otherwise is more than free to look over my old post from the last decade where I document this and submit their own counter-evidence if they like. :unsure:
 
You quoted "The Leaf needs at least 300 watts to sit around idle in park (with nothing else running)." I was wondering if this because the drive motor is already at a slow RPM when put in ready mode and because it is not moving the park position is holding it in place?
 
You quoted "The Leaf needs at least 300 watts to sit around idle in park (with nothing else running)." I was wondering if this because the drive motor is already at a slow RPM when put in ready mode and because it is not moving the park position is holding it in place?
The driver motor uses +500 watts of power when in creep mode from the traction battery, not the 12V system (when you let off the brake while in D or R and it moves slowly). When in park, it simply remains off. The +300 watts is just the water pumps, radiator fans, electronics, etc. It only gets that low though if you have absolutely nothing else turned on, like cabin fans, lights, seat heater, radio, etc.
 
In that situation, it's not the wire, but the connection points that are producing heat. The connection points are usually the weak link. That's why I have my inverter connected via a heavy-duty Anderson quick connect with the wires bolted into the battery connectors to eliminate that. Even on a hot day under full inverter load, my wires never heat up. I don't mean for a few minutes or hours, I mean literal "days" I've used my Leaf like this during emergency situations for the house.
you’re right about it getting hot only on the battery connection and not the wire itself. I re-did the connection using stronger torque on the battery screws and the inverter and they seem to be working a bit cooler now.
 
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