Can you use a 2000W inverter for powering tools?

[knightmb]

While technically possible, the two vehicles don't produce power at the same rate, so I think this would fail with one of them resulting in a melted 12V battery or some damage to the 12V system. Without a way to limit the current between the two and the fact that most ICE 12V systems are limited to +1200 watts of power, the Leaf would would end up probably frying the 12V system on the ICE since it can easily produce +2000 watts of power.

 

[Tony 240]

The limit is 2000 watts. The Leaf needs at least 300 watts to sit around idle in park (with nothing else running). That puts the safe extraction value at around 1500 watts (to account for efficiency loses). I've had it extract that much power for literal days at a time, so there is nothing for anyone to be afraid of as long as proper precautions are put into place.

I agree that you would not just use battery clamps and run that much power for days, that's why I use a hard wired system and why I always make sure to mention that.

I've been doing this since 2015 with the Gen 1 Leaf and Gen 2 Leaf more recently, my math and electrical knowledge is solid.

Anyone who claims otherwise is more than free to look over my old post from the last decade where I document this and submit their own counter-evidence if they like.

 

[Tony 240]

You quoted "The Leaf needs at least 300 watts to sit around idle in park (with nothing else running)." I was wondering if this because the drive motor is already at a slow RPM when put in ready mode and because it is not moving the park position is holding it in place?

 

[knightmb]

You quoted "The Leaf needs at least 300 watts to sit around idle in park (with nothing else running)." I was wondering if this because the drive motor is already at a slow RPM when put in ready mode and because it is not moving the park position is holding it in place?

The driver motor uses +500 watts of power when in creep mode from the traction battery, not the 12V system (when you let off the brake while in D or R and it moves slowly). When in park, it simply remains off. The +300 watts is just the water pumps, radiator fans, electronics, etc. It only gets that low though if you have absolutely nothing else turned on, like cabin fans, lights, seat heater, radio, etc.

 

[jsantana]

In that situation, it's not the wire, but the connection points that are producing heat. The connection points are usually the weak link. That's why I have my inverter connected via a heavy-duty Anderson quick connect with the wires bolted into the battery connectors to eliminate that. Even on a hot day under full inverter load, my wires never heat up. I don't mean for a few minutes or hours, I mean literal "days" I've used my Leaf like this during emergency situations for the house.

you’re right about it getting hot only on the battery connection and not the wire itself. I re-did the connection using stronger torque on the battery screws and the inverter and they seem to be working a bit cooler now.

 

[WisJim]

Does anyone have any specific recommendations for an inverter to use to provide 120 vac from the Leaf? It's been years since I've shopped for inverters, and they have all been much bigger and higher voltage (4kw+ and 24 or 48 volt input for our former off grid systems)
I'm interested in specific brands and models recommended, or the same for ones to avoid.

 

[LarryC]

You'll want a good pure sine wave inverter. I used this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Inverter-Upg...8e6d374b3&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

[benjwhite9]

This one is probably on the light side for power tools, but I have used it for small appliances.
https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Powe...67622&sprefix=xantrex+inverter,aps,187&sr=8-7

 

[philso]

Does anyone have any specific recommendations for an inverter to use to provide 120 vac from the Leaf? It's been years since I've shopped for inverters, and they have all been much bigger and higher voltage (4kw+ and 24 or 48 volt input for our former off grid systems)
I'm interested in specific brands and models recommended, or the same for ones to avoid.

Get one rated for several times the rated current of tool. Motors tend to pull around 5-6x the continuous rated current on the rating label when starting. If your tool is rated for 5A and you get an inverter rated for 6A max., it is likely that the self-protection circuitry in the inverter will shut down it's output due to the starting peak current.

You also get what you pay for, and don't get what you don't pay for. I purchased a Xantrex ProWatt SW200 inverter to use my Leaf as an alternative power source to a gasoline powered generator. I chose that brand because they also make lab grade power supplies that have served me well for decades in my career doing electronic design. In the past, I had a much more cheaply built one and it died after not much use. My Xantrex has no trouble starting my fridge while my freezer is running, and vice versa.

 

[JimEl]

We have a 1500 W Powerbright 12V inverter (3kW surge). It has powered our refrigerator, freezer, power tools, and lights from a succession of vehicles including our 2016 and 2022 Leaf SVs, with no problem. For example: https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2254

 

[EV2Power]

I did lots of research during lockdown and ended up buying a Setec unit which plugs into the Chademo port. They do a 3kw and a 6Kw version. I was so impressed that I started to import these and sell them in the UK. I don't do this anymore as work life got too busy but you can still see my little3 demo video on the website or Youtube -

I also found that the Instagrid units are superb - continuous draw of 3.6Kw but with a 10 second peak of an impressive 18KW - they have been super reliable and can be monitored remotely.

I hope that helps.