Car completely frizzed out and died while driving on the freeway

[Valdemar]

Getting some odd codes in the DTC log lately, today the brake warning light came on when I powered the car on which I think logged U1000, C1A70, C1A62 codes. I power cycled and the warning lights cleared. Measured 12.2V at the battery terminals with the car off. There is a noticeable needle drop on my analog meter (about 2V registers visually) when the car is powered on, there's also an earlier P30FE code for 12V Battery Voltage. It is the original 12V battery on my 2011. Sounds like it is finally time to replace it before any other troubleshooting? Anyone knows if Costco sells this size?

 

[cwerdna]

Getting some odd codes in the DTC log lately, today the brake warning light came on when I powered the car on which I think logged U1000, C1A70, C1A62 codes. I power cycled and the warning lights cleared. Measured 12.2V at the battery terminals with the car off. There is a noticeable needle drop on my analog meter (about 2V registers visually) when the car is powered on, there's also an earlier P30FE code for 12V Battery Voltage. It is the original 12V battery on my 2011. Sounds like it is finally time to replace it before any other troubleshooting? Anyone knows if Costco sells this size?

They should. I got my current one from Costco and it was size 51R. That's what comes up via the site that the button at https://www.costco.com/automotive-batteries.html points to for both '11 and '13 Leaf.

That's awesome your original lasted that long. Both the the original in my 5/2013 '13 and "84 month" Nissan-branded replacement that the dealer installed for me for free under warranty bit the dust. Was Oct 2015 for the 1st one and Nov 2019 for the latter (https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=571662#p571662).

 

[Valdemar]

Getting some odd codes in the DTC log lately, today the brake warning light came on when I powered the car on which I think logged U1000, C1A70, C1A62 codes. I power cycled and the warning lights cleared. Measured 12.2V at the battery terminals with the car off. There is a noticeable needle drop on my analog meter (about 2V registers visually) when the car is powered on, there's also an earlier P30FE code for 12V Battery Voltage. It is the original 12V battery on my 2011. Sounds like it is finally time to replace it before any other troubleshooting? Anyone knows if Costco sells this size?

They should. I got my current one from Costco and it was size 51R. That's what comes up via the site that the button at https://www.costco.com/automotive-batteries.html points to for both '11 and '13 Leaf.

That's awesome your original lasted that long. Both the the original in my 5/2013 '13 and "84 month" Nissan-branded replacement that the dealer installed for me for free under warranty bit the dust. Was Oct 2015 for the 1st one and Nov 2019 for the latter (https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=571662#p571662).

Alright, to the Costco I go then. I always thought it was odd so many owners had to replace batteries early, Leaf batteries are supposed to live easy and long life. Perhaps battery charging varies some from car to car, and cars on the sub-optimal end kill the batteries early.

 

[LeftieBiker]

I always thought it was odd so many owners had to replace batteries early, Leaf batteries are supposed to live easy and long life.

That would be the case only if they were used for starting the car only, and got recharged well. As it is they are overburdened in some situations, as well as under-charged.

 

[Valdemar]

I always thought it was odd so many owners had to replace batteries early, Leaf batteries are supposed to live easy and long life.

That would be the case only if they were used for starting the car only, and got recharged well. As it is they are overburdened in some situations, as well as under-charged.

Perhaps but mine lasted almost 10 years, and I could probably push it even longer. I did nothing special.

 

[azzipEVoli]

In my experience, and based on what I have found here on this forum, the low voltage "12v" battery is vital (but not treated as such by the onboard computer) and should read at least 12.8v and ideally 14v in order for the vehicle to operate correctly. Unfortunately, Nissan has not equipped the car with a decent discharge/recharge protocol to maintain its health.

Here's what I've been doing since I replaced the one on my 2014 LEAF S:

• I connect a battery tender device to maintain the battery during cold nights or during any more than-24-hour period the car might not be used.

• I keep a voltmeter connected (cigarette lighter plug-in voltmeter/phone charger less than $15 on AMazon). Not as accurate as direct reading but gives me peace of mind.

• Before I plan any highway trip (had serious shutdown issues beyond 65 mph), I check battery voltage directly under the hood with a voltmeter a few hours prior trip.

When buying a new low voltage battery: some are with +/- prongs opposite placement to original. It will fit but pulls on wiring harness a bit too tight on my vehicle. Some people suggest keeping car connected to a 12v/14v power source while switching battery to prevent computer shut down... I did that, just in case, but I never read anything clear about the risks of not doing so.

This might come too late for you but might help others reading through this.

With all its quirks and defects, Nissan missed out on the opportunity to create one of the greatest vehicles on the road, would their engineers listen to actual drivers and common sense... but it does the trick, right? Well, mostly

Good luck!

 

[nlspace]

+1 azzipEVoli, i agree with you about the 12v aux battery, and like your approach to keeping it full.

 

[LeftieBiker]

When buying a new low voltage battery: some are with +/- prongs opposite placement to original. It will fit but pulls on wiring harness a bit too tight on my vehicle.

If you buy a "group 51R" (the "R" is critical) you won't have issues with the terminals. You must have bought a Group 51 (no R) battery.

 

[Valdemar]

Installed a new Costco 51R today the old school way, the dashboard clock was reset that was the only downside I can tell so far. The battery bracket is a bit too wide for the new battery but seems secure enough. Battery voltage is 12.5V so not much higher from the old battery but I checked and there is no voltage sag at the time the car is powered on, the voltage just rises to 13.5V or whatever voltage value the DC/DC converter provides, which is a good sign. Keeping my fingers crossed for no more DTCs.