Chademo fast charger no longer working, why ?

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Joined
Sep 8, 2024
Messages
29
Location
Gore, Qc Canada
Hi, I've purchased a used Leaf 2018 with only 103,600km. LearSpy Pro indicates nearly 93% battery health, an history of only 150 fast charge and I've used a few short fast charge sessions never exceeding 80% charge. Suddenly, today, Chademo/fast charge did not work. I've tried a pool of four 50KW that other various EV used before me, but after my payment card was accepted, it would not start charging as usual with the START button (I've already used the same charge pool a few times). The charger help line confirmed that everything was fine with my account, but it looks as if communication between my leaf and the fast charger did not initialize the charging session. I checked all parts of my CHADEMO connector, no corrosion, dust or any visible damage. LeafSpy Pro service screen does not show any error, the 12V battery is fully charged (premature conclusion, voltage DROPPED quickly after a few minutes, see next replies) I suspect there is a bad contact somewhere in the communication ports of the CHADEMO connector, or behind it. Do you think of anything else. I am about to get it checked by my local Nissan Dealership where all recalls were done and inspection showed no problem. Fast charge was working after that update/inspection. Anybody had a similar problem ? How did it end up working again ?

I've not found any posting about such a problem. Note that otherwise Level2 charge works perfectly.

Thanks for your help.
 
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About the only parts unique to CHAdeMO charging are the fast charging contactors and some cabling. These are moderately awkward to get to; if you're handy with electronics and know how to deal with high DC voltages safely, search this forum for some posts and photos.

Alas, I've not head anything about these failing, other than a recent post where the dealers helpfully "hosed the engine bay" and caused corrosion in the large round connector.
 
One fellow found corrosion inside the round gray connector on the back side of the PDM--that is where the command and control lines for both AC and DC charging enter the PDM.

So the first check would be the big black harness in the engine compartment for a wiring issue (rodent damage) and check for corrosion in connector terminals and contacts.
 
I had CHAdeMO charging just stop working one day. I took it to the dealer and they cleared the DTC for this and it worked again. I had a dongle but LS didn't work at that time.

Edit: I had this code: U1027 2408 Charger
 
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About the only parts unique to CHAdeMO charging are the fast charging contactors and some cabling. These are moderately awkward to get to; if you're handy with electronics and know how to deal with high DC voltages safely, search this forum for some posts and photos.

Alas, I've not head anything about these failing, other than a recent post where the dealers helpfully "hosed the engine bay" and caused corrosion in the large round connector.
Thanks, i kept digging and Found out that the 12V battery voltage kept falling as soon as i turned off the Leaf . Within about 2 min, it dropped from 13v to 12v when i monitored with LeafSpy Pro. Ambient température was below 10 C, as contributing factor.
So, the battery became the prime suspect considering a weak 12V is known to frequently cause problems. IT plays a central role into CHAdeMO protocol.
I should be able to test fast charge tomorrow. I installed a New battery.
 
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One fellow found corrosion inside the round gray connector on the back side of the PDM--that is where the command and control lines for both AC and DC charging enter the PDM.

So the first check would be the big black harness in the engine compartment for a wiring issue (rodent damage) and check for corrosion in connector terminals and contacts.
I wil definitely check for any damages to the wiring if the change of 12V battery I made today does not eliminate fast charging issues. I live in the middle of a maple bush, so rodents and squirrels are quite common. Fortunately, I found out that the old 12V dropped from 13V to 12V within 2-3 minutes on LeafSpy Pro after the Leaf was turned off. The reason why 12V often fail is well explained on a video
.
I was able to use a fast charger this morning after the weather was warmed up compared to yesterday. Electronic 12V battery tester gave me a 12V battery health score of 36%... I wished there was some 12V batteries that were better fo suited for EVs than starting type lead acid. I saw that there are now LifePo3 battery that are manufactured for the 51r format or the B19 that are suggested as an upgrade for Leaf 12V, but they cost over five times the cost of a standard Lead Acid, so I will play safe and I installed a heavy duty Lead Acid with a 3 year warranty.

Thanks again !
 
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I had CHAdeMO charging just stop working one day. I took it to the dealer and they cleared the DTC for this and it worked again. I had a dongle but LS didn't work at that time.

Edit: I had this code: U1027 2408 Charger
Fortunately, I don't have any error codes and the CHAdeMo works intermittently, likely related to the weak battery I just found and replaced. Testing will follow tomorrow.
 
About the only parts unique to CHAdeMO charging are the fast charging contactors and some cabling. These are moderately awkward to get to; if you're handy with electronics and know how to deal with high DC voltages safely, search this forum for some posts and photos.

Alas, I've not head anything about these failing, other than a recent post where the dealers helpfully "hosed the engine bay" and caused corrosion in the large round connector.
I tested again the four 50Kw charging stations that did not respond to my CHAdeMO connection on Sunday. Looks like changing the 12V battery resolved the problem. Minimal voltage is 12.6v instead of 12V, no voltage drop after 2 minutes.
Thanks to you all !
 
, the 12V battery is fully charged.
. Electronic 12V battery tester gave me a 12V battery health score of 36%...
These two statements seam at odds with each other.
Charging AND testing is the 1st step in almost all DTC's.
Testing a discharged battery will give erroneous results, charging a weak battery without testing its capacity again, only give 1/2 the story.
Unlike a ICE starting battery, that gets a heavy load and the sound of the cranking engine, can give some indication that the battery is on its way out, the Leaf's 12 volt will pull in the main contactors and supply the electronics until it can't, there is no warning that point is coming in most cases.
Many report 5-7 year life out of the 12 volt, about what most do in ICE cars, some go as high as 10 years and some as low as 2.
 
These two statements seam at odds with each other.
Charging AND testing is the 1st step in almost all DTC's.
Testing a discharged battery will give erroneous results, charging a weak battery without testing its capacity again, only give 1/2 the story.
Unlike a ICE starting battery, that gets a heavy load and the sound of the cranking engine, can give some indication that the battery is on its way out, the Leaf's 12 volt will pull in the main contactors and supply the electronics until it can't, there is no warning that point is coming in most cases.
Many report 5-7 year life out of the 12 volt, about what most do in ICE cars, some go as high as 10 years and some as low as 2.
The contradiction into the battery status results of the fact i had assumed 13V to be fine initially, until i found out the voltage DROPPED on LeafSpy Pro to 12 V after 2-3 minutes the Leaf was turned off. This is NOT normal. The low battery health was found on the Fully charges battery that no longer held a charge. I'm learning. I understand an EV demands a totally different type of amp Discharge than an ICE starter, so breaking point is different. The battery tester is made to analyse regular Lead acid starting power, so the health status alone is to consider only as a clue for a 12V battery on EV. Discovering the rapid voltage drop was really the Critical information that made me change my diagnostic focus completely.
Thanks for your imput.
 
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There have been some that report that Leafspy reading of the 12 volt differs from a direct reading at the battery terminals. so if there is a question I wouldn't solely rely on what the cars electronics say it is.
This, in fact, may play a large part in why some report chronic undercharging and low battery life, while others see different outcomes. a few 100th of a volt difference at the battery can throw off the charging regime.
Battery voltage and current are what determines when the charging system switches from "bulk" to "float", if the reading that determine that change is off, it will effect how well the battery gets charged.
 
I bought a 2012 Leaf and found the Chademo didn't work (the first time I was on a long journey; really bad timing). I looked for corrosion and found none. Dealer said it could cost up to £3000 to fix so I never did. Sold car for peanuts with that and several other unresolved problems.
 
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