Changing my headlights to LED on 2018 Leaf

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PoppyG

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2024
Messages
8
Location
Australia
Hi. I have recently purchased a 2018 Leaf (base model). The headlights are not great and I would like to buy LED replacement bulbs. It has 3 separate light fittings (compartments if you will) for low beam, high beam, and the daytime running lights (we call them parking lights in Aus :). Can someone point me in the right direction to buy suitable LEDs for high and low beams? I understand that replacement bulbs have to not cause a CANBUS error due to the current they draw compared to the orginal.
Thanks
 
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Does a 2018 Leaf detect what current is drawn by its headlamp bulbs? My 2021 e-NV200 doesn't, and does not mind what's plugged in to the headlamp connector.

You can test this by unplugging one headlight (just the connectors on the back of the main halogen bulbs, no need to remove the bulbs and especially not to touch the glass). If the car reports an error when the lights are then turned on, it has detection for a failed lamp. If no error, though, you can fit any LED lamp which is small enough to go into the reflector. Remember to reconnect the lights after the test.
 
If you can get LEDs to replace I highly recommend AUXBEAM. They used to be on amz but I dont know about now. I installed them in my old ICE and was very pleased. But this was 12 years ago.

Just keep in mind that all high power LEDs will have cooling fans, and they run at very high rpm. So you may hear them when stopped.
 
Does a 2018 Leaf detect what current is drawn by its headlamp bulbs? My 2021 e-NV200 doesn't, and does not mind what's plugged in to the headlamp connector.

You can test this by unplugging one headlight (just the connectors on the back of the main halogen bulbs, no need to remove the bulbs and especially not to touch the glass). If the car reports an error when the lights are then turned on, it has detection for a failed lamp. If no error, though, you can fit any LED lamp which is small enough to go into the reflector. Remember to reconnect the lights after the test.
Thanks for that. Yes, many vehicles these days (not just EVs) have a can-bus system that monitors the current drawn by various items such as lights, and shows an error that prompts you to change the bulb. I will try that. Why didn't I think of that :(
 
If you can get LEDs to replace I highly recommend AUXBEAM. They used to be on amz but I dont know about now. I installed them in my old ICE and was very pleased. But this was 12 years ago.

Just keep in mind that all high power LEDs will have cooling fans, and they run at very high rpm. So you may hear them when stopped.
Thanks for the advice. Yes, there are so many on offer, just need to get the right one. Also, if the current drawn by the new light is significantly greater than the original, it may be too high for the current rating of the wiring, which may cause it to degrade due to heat.
 
Thanks for the advice. Yes, there are so many on offer, just need to get the right one. Also, if the current drawn by the new light is significantly greater than the original, it may be too high for the current rating of the wiring, which may cause it to degrade due to heat.

Have you checked out national laws on changing incandescent bulbs for LED? In the UK it isnt allowed, even if the car had a factory LED light option when new - if it arrived without LED fitted, you are not allowed to retro-fit.

Which is a pisser.
 
Have you checked out national laws on changing incandescent bulbs for LED? In the UK it isnt allowed, even if the car had a factory LED light option when new - if it arrived without LED fitted, you are not allowed to retro-fit.

Which is a pisser.
Hi. I don't think there is an issue in Aus but will keep it in mind.
 
In Australia, factory-fitted LEDs are legal, but retro-fitted ones are not - the argument is that "they may not be calibrated correctly and can then be dazzling to other drivers"... Ignoring the fact that factory-fitted LEDs are also dazzling. :rolleyes:
Same here in the UK, some are so bright and so badly set up, you can get blinded by them in broad daylight.
 
If you can get LEDs to replace I highly recommend AUXBEAM. They used to be on amz but I dont know about now. I installed them in my old ICE and was very pleased. But this was 12 years ago.

Just keep in mind that all high power LEDs will have cooling fans, and they run at very high rpm. So you may hear them when stopped.
Our Auxbeam led's are still working after about 6-7 years.
 
Same here in the UK, some are so bright and so badly set up, you can get blinded by them in broad daylight.
Even some factory-fitted ones are terrible, though... Porsche and Tesla do a fantastic job with their Halogen and LED lights, but Auldi and some of the other brands are blinding with their factory-fitted lights.
 
Thanks for the advice. Yes, there are so many on offer, just need to get the right one. Also, if the current drawn by the new light is significantly greater than the original, it may be too high for the current rating of the wiring, which may cause it to degrade due to heat.
@PoppyG - The current draw of LEDs I find is usually less than 30W. SAE specs (USA, I know) limits low beams to about 35-40W and hi beam to 55W.
So, rather unlikely the LEDs will draw more.

And if LEDs do not work out, try finding HIR which are a version of halogen but much brighter. They have a ceramic coating on the bulb walls that reflect IR back onto the filament to make it glow hotter. They will almost definitely plug into your socket and match the output beam pattern, so no blinding.
 
Hi. I don't think there is an issue in Aus but will keep it in mind.
I wasn't aware of any legal issues in Aus. That doesn't bother me so much. I would be surprised if the bulbs were LED already. Very average performance indeed. This is a 100% import. The instruments cluster is still in Japanese and finding it difficult to get it converted but that is another story.
 
The instruments cluster is still in Japanese and finding it difficult to get it converted but that is another story.
Where are you located?

I have a phone number for a guy in Victoria that will convert it all to English, and he put me onto a guy in Brisvegas that will do the same... It's expensive though, ~$650.

Mine was actually mostly converted when I bought it - just the (Nissan Connect) maps, audio feedback and compass are all in Japanese/configured for Japan still... But at the price they're asking, I'm probably just going to opt for a better-quality head unit from a third party instead (most likely the Kenwood DMX9720XDS that we have in my wife's car) - I'll loose the automatic parking, but gain so much more with the superior head unit.

My understanding is that a lot (all?) of the conversion is done with a simple firmware update / upgrade, which is a theory that is supported by the way some companies describe the conversion process. And in 2024, I'm honestly surprised that seemingly nobody has a copy of the firmware update / upgrade floating around for cough cough sharing among friends cough cough... I've sudo looked, and has no luck in finding such a thing.
 
Thanks Greg. I have the LeafSpy Pro App (great litttle App!) and it will do a language conversion for the earlier model (ZE0) but not mine (2018 ZE1). I have contacted the programmer of LeafSpy Pro and I believe he is working on an update. I am located near Sydney. Not going to drive to Brissy and part with $650. I have an Android console which was fitted prior to my purchase which is in English. I can live with the Japanese instrument cluster. All the essential stuff is in English (speed, range, charge etc) and the icons are self explanatory. Will wait to see what happens re LeafSpy Pro.
 
@PoppyG - The current draw of LEDs I find is usually less than 30W. SAE specs (USA, I know) limits low beams to about 35-40W and hi beam to 55W.
So, rather unlikely the LEDs will draw more.

And if LEDs do not work out, try finding HIR which are a version of halogen but much brighter. They have a ceramic coating on the bulb walls that reflect IR back onto the filament to make it glow hotter. They will almost definitely plug into your socket and match the output beam pattern, so no blinding.
Thanks RP. Yes LEDs do draw a lot less than Halogen or Incandescent. The thing I need to confirm is that many current vehicles ( EV and ICE) have a CANBUS system that detects the current drawn by various loads and raises an alarm if it is out of the expected range which, for lighting would indicate a blown bulb.
 
Thanks RP. Yes LEDs do draw a lot less than Halogen or Incandescent. The thing I need to confirm is that many current vehicles ( EV and ICE) have a CANBUS system that detects the current drawn by various loads and raises an alarm if it is out of the expected range which, for lighting would indicate a blown bulb.
You are correct about the CANBUS, and its actually worse. The system also has fuses that will trip out if more current is used, its mandated due to the max current allowed. Conversely, the system must allow for a good range of current draw before it throws a fault, too many brands and styles to cover. I suspect a bulb fault will not happen until very low, like 1W.

In my research for my old ICE (2011 Edge) I found at that time the best LEDs were less draw, but not by much, perhaps 33%. Hopefully they are better now.

However, I am confident you could find lower current drawing bulbs (for the fuse concern). The big issue as mentioned by others is the geometry, you must find one that has a 'center' point with the same offset to base and mount. If not, the parabolic reflector (or lens if a projector style) will scatter light to cause blinding. I very much recommend not doing that, very annoying to others.
 
I've done this and don't have great news. I put two brands of LED bulbs in my halogen equipped 2022 LEAF. The AUXITO ones lasted 6-11 months. They're also loud enough (fans) that you can hear them inside the car! Not an issue with ICE cars I guess. I switched to LASFIT bulbs and one of these only lasted 4mo. The other is going on 12mo.

My guess is the DC-DC converter in the LEAF doesn't produce the same voltage as an ICE alternator. Maybe it's a bit higher, lower, or has some ripple frequency on it that LED drivers don't like. Or maybe the headlamp assembly doesn't provide enough cooling somehow.

At least there are no error messages and the beams were well defined and cut off so they don't blind other drivers.
 
My guess is the DC-DC converter in the LEAF doesn't produce the same voltage as an ICE alternator. Maybe it's a bit higher, lower, or has some ripple frequency on it that LED drivers don't like.
I don't think so. I've had the same experience with LED headlights in my ICE cars. I think all these random brands just don't have robust engineering design or quality control.

Or maybe the headlamp assembly doesn't provide enough cooling somehow.
That seems a lot more likely to me.
 
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