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PhoenyxRoze

Active member
Joined
Jul 23, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Arvada co
So I bought my leaf in the beginning of this month and I was told that the converter junction box needed to be replaced because it won't charge so I purchased one and I had it put in and then my car still would not charge well I found out that I needed to charge the 12 volt battery in order for the converter to actually charge the car and I let it charge for an hour and a half but the car turned on and then died and then I had to recharge the 12 volt battery again in order to get it to charge so now I'm going to try to let it charge for 3 hours before I try to turn it on but does anyone have any suggestions on how to prevent the 12 volt battery from dying while trying to charge the ion battery and the converter box
 
Welcome. Your use of the term "converter box" is probably delaying any replies, as folks scratch their heads. Do you mean "inverter junction box" (or inverter controller, maybe?) Anyway, if the 12 volt battery is the same one that came with the car, it may be either the culprit or an accomplice. If you can afford it, replace the 12 volt battery (preferably with an AGM type battery). The type needed is 51R - and the R is necessary. Have the battery fully charged before it's installed - that's necessary for EVs like the Leaf. If you are short on cash, borrow a battery tester from an auto parts store, and test the capacity and health of that 12 volt battery. If it checks out fine (and it likely won't) then the most common cause of this kind of malfunction has at least been eliminated.
 
Welcome. Your use of the term "converter box" is probably delaying any replies, as folks scratch their heads. Do you mean "inverter junction box" (or inverter controller, maybe?) Anyway, if the 12 volt battery is the same one that came with the car, it may be either the culprit or an accomplice. If you can afford it, replace the 12 volt battery (preferably with an AGM type battery). The type needed is 51R - and the R is necessary. Have the battery fully charged before it's installed - that's necessary for EVs like the Leaf. If you are short on cash, borrow a battery tester from an auto parts store, and test the capacity and health of that 12 volt battery. If it checks out fine (and it likely won't) then the most common cause of this kind of malfunction has at least been eliminated.
The dc to dc converter junction box is what the part is called. The individual who sold me the car said this was the issue. We'll I got another one had it put in and I'm seeing that was not the issue. The 12 volt just doesn't hold a charge. I'm open to ideas on changing the 12 volt but I'm already out 1500 and that's not counting the$$ on rideshares to and from work I can't really afford another 2 or 300 . Any idea on where to get a good battary for less than 100?
 
The dc to dc converter junction box is what the part is called. The individual who sold me the car said this was the issue. We'll I got another one had it put in and I'm seeing that was not the issue. The 12 volt just doesn't hold a charge. I'm open to ideas on changing the 12 volt but I'm already out 1500 and that's not counting the$$ on rideshares to and from work I can't really afford another 2 or 300 . Any idea on where to get a good battary for less than 100?
A good sale, I guess. Auto parts stores like Advance Auto will loan out testing equipment, or sell it with a guaranteed return, which is about the same thing. If the battery is ok then a load tester should reveal it.

I know what the DC-DC converter is, but they (and the junction boxes) don't fail often enough to be on our radar. Dealerships are known for taking wrong guesses on failures, though, so the previous owner may actually have been told what they told you...
 
A good sale, I guess. Auto parts stores like Advance Auto will loan out testing equipment, or sell it with a guaranteed return, which is about the same thing. If the battery is ok then a load tester should reveal it.

I know what the DC-DC converter is, but they (and the junction boxes) don't fail often enough to be on our radar. Dealerships are known for taking wrong guesses on failures, though, so the previous owner may actually have been told what they told you...
Cool.thank you. So I can borrow a battary tester and what if the battary says no issues where do I look next to resolve the issue of my little troubles?
 
It always helps to know the model year of the vehicle when troubleshooting problems.

For the early models, the dc/dc converter is inside the High Voltage Junction Box, HVJB, that is located under the hood between the firewall and the motor. The function of the dc/dc is to recharge the 12V battery. But if the battery is old, weak or worn out, then it can't hold a charge no matter how hard the dcdc works. Unfortunately you found out the hard way about a weak battery and throwing parts to fix problems.

Put an external charger on the 12V battery for a day or so, maybe it can be revived enough to hold up for charging the car.

Some Interstate battery stores carry "blems" that used to cost $35, but now are about $70. They only have 2 sizes, large and small, maybe something like that could get you back on the road.
 
It always helps to know the model year of the vehicle when troubleshooting problems.

For the early models, the dc/dc converter is inside the High Voltage Junction Box, HVJB, that is located under the hood between the firewall and the motor. The function of the dc/dc is to recharge the 12V battery. But if the battery is old, weak or worn out, then it can't hold a charge no matter how hard the dcdc works. Unfortunately you found out the hard way about a weak battery and throwing parts to fix problems.

Put an external charger on the 12V battery for a day or so, maybe it can be revived enough to hold up for charging the car.

Some Interstate battery stores carry "blems" that used to cost $35, but now are about $70. They only have 2 sizes, large and small, maybe something like that could get you back on the road.
Ty I really appreciate the feed back yeah I've tried charging the 12 volt for 3 hours then it has enough juice to allow the dc to charge and when I try to start the car about 5 hours later it turns on then dies
It's a 2012 nissan leaf sl
 
If it isn't the 12 volt battery (I think it probably is) then you may have a relay sticking open when the car is Off, and draining the 12 volt battery. Maybe...
 
Not nearly long enough to charge the battery. Probably 24 hours or more depending upon the external charger device current, e.g. trickle charger, 1Amp charger, etc
I'm saying the 12 volt battary I am aware it takes 7 hours to charge the ion battary fully . I just need enough charge to go to the charging station 1.2 mi away from me
 
A typical charge from total dis charge takes at least 10 hrs, regardless of the chargers max amp rate. It is time on charge that is needed to bring it back, if even possible. Multiple deep discharges can damage the battery beyond recovery. Longer is needed if a trickle charger or maintainer is used in place of a true battery charger.
The battery used in the Leaf is a Group 51R, which is used by many Asian vehicles, not just the Leaf. Check at an "auto recycler" (junk yard) or "Pick A Part" yard and see if they have a used Gp 51R that would be a cheap temporary solution until you can afford a new battery. I generally don't think used batteries are a good way to go, but "needs must when the devil drives". If yours is toast, it may be the cheapest option.
 
Ty I really appreciate the feed back yeah I've tried charging the 12 volt for 3 hours then it has enough juice to allow the dc to charge and when I try to start the car about 5 hours later it turns on then dies
It's a 2012 nissan leaf sl
Sometimes batteries have a date code sticker on them. If the battery is original, you absolutely need a new 12v. I wouldn't trust it unless it's quite new, and even then it's suspect until proven otherwise.

Lead acid batteries that are seriously degraded may 'seem' to charge up to 12v, but they may not hold the charge. Charging may seem like pouring water into a leaking bucket.
How are you checking he actual battery state? A volt meter is minimum, but that will only show you 'there is water in the bucket', not how deep it is. For that you need a current test.
You CAN charge the 12v AND the main battery at the same time if you have the proper connections to do so. If you don't have much main charge, and you get enough 12v charge to make it to the charging station, you could find yourself stranded there. Charging the main battery will not fix, or support, a seriously degraded 12v.
 
The dc to dc converter junction box is what the part is called. The individual who sold me the car said this was the issue. We'll I got another one had it put in and I'm seeing that was not the issue. The 12 volt just doesn't hold a charge. I'm open to ideas on changing the 12 volt but I'm already out 1500 and that's not counting the$$ on rideshares to and from work I can't really afford another 2 or 300 . Any idea on where to get a good battary for less than 100?
Costco. Even if u have to buy a membership, it’s worth it. The cost of the battery is gonna be close to $150.
 
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