Cooler Leaf - on Heat Energy Storage & Ice Packs

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This: "Anyhow, back to your situation - can't you simiply rewire the cooling fans at the front and arrange it so you power them independently? You could rig them to suck rather than blow - as you say, the mindset is thinking of flowing air during driving, which needs to be re-thought."

better yet get a thermal switch that activates at set temperature to turn the fans on..but this would still mainly help with cooling of the charger/inverter/motor assembly with very little impact on the battery temperature. you would have to set up another fan to move the air over the battery during the charging..also parking on the grass, if possible, during the day would definitely help.
 
I can't remember who suggested it, but I have put a fan at the back of the car blowing forward with air blowing in those vent spaces on the rear underside. The things I noticed were a cooler pack temp right after charging and warm air wafting out of the front of the car in front of the radiator.

I can't imagine much, if any, heat would actually physically transfer from the motor/controller stack and radiator back to the battery pack. The motor controller stack is higher than the battery pack, heat rises and there is not a lot of conducting metal between the two. Having said that with air blowing backwards (from normal driving conditions) any heat that is in the “engine compartment” would tend to move forward towards the radiator as well.

As far as heating being "stored" while charging in the radiator that is true in a sense and I image in we ever get larger battery pack they will need to turn the fans on once the coolant gets to a certain temp (I wonder if they would come on now at some temperature while charging), but right now I don't think even from dead to full with 6 kw charger it can make enough heat to overwhelm the radiator core and spreading out the heat makes a HUGE difference in dissipating it over time, natural convection works pretty well.

As the OP stated thinking there is about 1 KWH of heat stored in the pack after charging, a block of ice, even a gallon of ice isn't enough cooling to make a real dent in that much heat. Sort of like dropping the same in to a bath of warm water. It might drop it a few degrees, but it would take a lot more to be significant. I really think even passive cooling of the pack (fan on the back underside) would reject more heat than a block of ice in the battery disconnect area. I am not saying it doesn't help, just not sure if it is best solution.

Has anyone put a fan blowing up out of the battery disconnect area to try to help with cooling? I would think even leaving that open would allow more convection of air around the pack.
 
FalconFour said:
OK, let's squash some bogus misinformation here real, real fast before we get too far into page 2. Sorry, I was away all day on a *really* long-running work project today, and haven't been on a forum in quite a while so I hope I can keep on top of this.

Yes, the motor, controller (/inverter/charger, all combined as one "power management unit" as I'd call it) and battery are ALL thermally related. You can't connect two components with a big piece of conductive metal and say "they don't affect one another". You can't group them all under one huge insulating (yes, insulating, not conducting - the hood is NOT a good conductor of heat as I've observed by a cold hood and hot parts) cover and then say "they don't conduct". The motor/controller block heat DOES heat the battery pack if not dissipated by the cooling fan. This is observable by just walking out to any 2013 Leaf (S, in my case) at the end of a charging cycle and observing the temperatures. Very easy to test, very easy to see how they relate. The metal frame and shell of the car will either conduct heat away from the pack towards the cooler components, or will conduct heat from the hotter components into the battery pack. That's simple science. Let's move past the elementary stuff and think about how to solve the problem, not act like it doesn't exist.

Unfortunately, since most of this thread so far has been dominated by EVDRIVER sprawling bogus info about heat transfer, that's really all that's been touched on so far. Another good point is that the 6,000-plus watt charger does, in fact, produce a significant amount of waste heat that gets absorbed (via the activated water-cooling system) into the motor/controller block, which acts as a heat energy capacitor - the radiator does not do any cooling whatsoever without air moving through it - it's just another capacitor. Since there's an enormous amount of aluminum in the motor block components, with aluminum being the highest heat-capacity metal commonly available, most of that waste heat gets stored, not dissipated, at the time of charging. That stored waste heat gets conducted and dissipated through the car body over a much longer period of time than the charging cycle lasts, probably with the bulk of the waste heat getting flushed out the next time the car gets driven (which removes the heat extremely fast).

The issue here is that the cooling system was designed with car-in-motion in mind, not parked-car as in the case of charging - where most of the electronics heat is produced. This is why I see it as a "old school of thought" induced design flaw - Nissan's so used to making cars that have to cool while in motion, that they forgot things like creating an airflow feedback loop as found in the gap between the radiator and the fan shroud (check under your hood while the fans run - you'll find hot air sucking back into the fan!). Non-issue for ICE cars that don't usually produce much heat while stationary... but a big one for EVs where the opposite is true.

Oh - and it's worth noting: the water cooling system *is* active for the entire period of charging - you can tell by a slight hum from the controller block, and by squeezing a cooling line to feel the coolant flow (it's a brushless pump with a reservoir, no damage can occur by doing so). That's how the charger manages to dissipate the heat that would require a jet-engine of a fan to cool by air cooling. Unfortunately, though, there's no air cooling - there's just heat distribution; storing that waste heat in other system components instead.

ed.: ah, and yes, I've got the 2013 S, and was pretty disappointed to find that I didn't have the heat pump - after signing the lease. Can't comprehend why Nissan would develop two completely different heating systems for something as simple as saving a reversing valve on the S trim. But no - while I can probably use a heat pipe coupled to the exposed metal on the low-pressure hose and put the other end into the water-cooling loop :ugeek: , I can't reverse the A/C to blow cold air. I *SO* wish I could, though! :lol:


I would like to see ACCURATE numbers that the heat from the charge cycle significantly impacts the pack temp warranting additional cooling of the engine compartment. Every piece of metal including the hood conducts heat in the car but the relation to the pack and the engine compartment for heat transfer is based on many factors. I assume that is what you mean by bogus info but the majority of the information posted so far has been completely incorrect statements about how the cooling system works, nothing about thermal relation and relevance.

In high ambient temps the entire car will clearly be hotter and the hood temps will of course be hotter, you are implying that cooling the engine compartment in that situation is going to result in a significant pack temp differential that warrants the expense of additional venting under those conditions. As an example, the firewall temp is a significant thermal coupler for the pack and the engine compartment heat which would impact that local plane when reduced by additional venting and then be a significant offset to the pack heat as a shared "heatsink".

There is no question the floor of the car and connected components including the firewall all are thermally bonded but the seat floor pans and the path to the firewall are also well insulated and a bit away however a true shared path. The hood is likely one of the best heat transfer surfaces in the vehicle as it has an external surface that is not insulated, not implying that a hood that is open will reduce the overall AMBIENT engine compartment temps, but the question is the impact on the overall thermal impact for the shared heat source/pack dissipation.

So the question is under the same:

Ambient temp
Beginning pack temp
Same total kw pack input, same charge time
Environmental conditions (Sun, parking surface, etc)

Will the pack temp differential be significant to warrant venting of heat from the engine compartment and the cost/time to properly implement this reliably?

Are Nissan engineers so inept that they left a 10 degree or significant variable on the table?

Every component in the car is "thermally related" including the filaments of the light bulbs and all to highly varying degrees, that is a true but a very general statement that has more validity in relation to large masses of thermal coupling with highly conductive materials as in this case but how relevant in terms of the benefit.
 
From what I have read, charging from 240V is approximately 85% efficient. That means that 15% of the energy is lost as heat. Some is dissipated by the electronics, but a large portion is directly wasted moving ions around in the battery.

Likewise, when you drive, not all of the electricity from the battery goes to the wheels. Some is lost in gears. Some is lost in electronics. Some is lost in motor windings and perhaps also in motor eddy currents. But another source of energy lost when charging the battery is from moving ions around in the battery. I don't have any estimates for this energy lost, but guess that roughly 5% of the 24kWh pack energy goes into heating the pack itself. You can prove this yourself by using something like Leaf Spy Pro to display battery temperature before driving and after driving. It's always noticeably higher after a trip. So anything that uses the battery to cool the car is penalized by a portion of this energy causing more heat in the battery.

I bring this up to encourage you to use solutions that do not rely on the battery for cooling. It will help, but it is inherently less efficient than using an outside powered fan or other source of energy for cooling.

Bob
 
here is some good data that was captured on the long distance trip from NY to DC (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16V40V1WH62-VQvMxuccjPfw0etOQGO1aliobFVYTRLA/edit?usp=sharing) for all of us to ponder.

here is chart using that data that shows the relationship between the ambient temperature, battery pack temperature and battery charging. clearly shows that charging has the biggest impact on battery temps(left axis is Temperature in F, right axis is Charger output in Watts):
leafcharging.png


To me it looks like that charging by far puts the most heat into battery, ambient temperature comes second and driving the car(draining the battery) third.

Link to the thread: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=17290
 
Nubo said:
Not a problem. You do make some good points and have got me thinking about it more. At the moment I'd still point out that the front of the car is not completely closed off. I still think the radiator plays a central role but you do have me curious about how the convection would work. Some infrared camera work would be interesting.

So I took a quick look this morning and it appears to me that there is clear air space all along each of the longitudinal seams at the sides of the front hood. I haven't measured it but maybe 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Given the total length of the air gap, that's actually quite a good deal of convection possible, given that this would be low-speed air. Don't have an IR camera but maybe some kind of smoke test would illustrate this.

FalconFour, I'm still surprised by the level of heat you are encountering. I've checked my under-hood temps by touch now and then after/during charging sessions and haven't really noticed anything that I would call hot. Then again I charge with an end-timer so ambient temp when I've checked has usually been in the range of 45F to 75F. And the (3.3kW) charger itself is in the rear of the car on my 2012. But still I find the "too hot to touch" temperatures surprising. Do you have the 6kW charger?
 
The 2011 has the 3.3kW charger and doesn't get too terribly hot while charging, but still rather warm considering the coolant pipes go directly along the battery pack - which I'd imagine, given how conductive pipes with flowing coolant are, has quite some effect on the pack temp. I've done the same cool-down testing on the 2011 and the 2013, and the 2011 seems to take a lot longer to cool off using the fan and other methods. The 2011 is also able to run the fan for a couple minutes without the A/C since it runs the fan for about 2 minutes after the A/C is shut off. So I can just toggle the A/C button quickly, without the compressor even getting a chance to kick on, and the fans run and blow nothing but cooling-system heat out of the hood.

The 2013 has the 6.6kW charger but only runs at 4.5kW due to my 2nd-gen upgraded EVSE (from my 2011). It usually charges from my 120v/1.4kW L1 brick though, during which it doesn't get quite as hot, but still very warm. Since it has the charger integrated under the hood, no heat pipes extend back to the rear across the pack, and it seems to cool off a bit quicker when the fan runs - possibly due to more open space under the hood.

I can't quite figure out where the air goes when it comes out of the fan, though. It doesn't exactly billow out of the open hood like I'd expect hot air to do. Almost seems like it loops back through an opening in the hood to get recirculated in an airflow loop... but there's still a lot of air coming in through the front bumper opening. So that's still a mystery for sure!

I used a heat pipe on the 2011 last night to get a really rough guess on how much heat is in there. I went down with 2 long-frozen lunch box coolers and one flexi-pack cooler, and put one end in the reservoir (which has rapidly flowing coolant all the time) and the other in a container with the packs plus some water to distribute the chill. It worked pretty well to cool the system down to ambient "cold block" feel, but it took ALL the cooling stored in those packs to do so. Kinda surprising. No hard data on that because I'm still really just messing with rough experiments... but that graph posted earlier is rather encouraging.

On the quest for 5 temp bars for the first time this summer :lol:
 
So today, given that we've had a streak of 69F nights and started the day with 90F+ pack temps, I'm investigating a way to hotwire the fan on-demand. I spent hours out there at the car trying to use water over the controller/motor stack to get rid of its VERY high (140+F, easily) temperature, but eventually gave up after it came down around 90-100F but kept pulling more heat through the water system. The fan is very effective at getting rid of that heat quicker than a dryer vent pointed at the front grill (yep, that's a lot of direct airflow), so I've got to find a way to make it run that darn fan.

I'm not even charging at full speed - Leaf Spy reports I'm only getting 3.5 kW out of my Rev2 EVSE (from the old Leaf, only one I could afford an upgrade on), the input cable (post-adapter) getting literally "hot" to the touch as well! But the electronics under the hood get just as hot as that cable, and that's a huge problem!

I see there's a 3-pin connector going to the fan module: raw V+ and V-, but need to check if that third wire is a digital signal or a simple toggle signal. If it's digital, I need to interface with it (yay, Arduino and CAN controller chip!). If it's just a simple toggle signal, life is good... input would be very welcome from those with access to a service manual! :cool:

update: yeah, there's nothing in the service manual about the control signals. Naturally. :roll:
 
I bought 5 of these:

8b248396-e580-441a-97d6-8e4ebd8e74e8.jpg

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/15100964585240017916?q=rubbermaid+ice+pack&safe=off&biw=1203&bih=730&ei=d0omVPrmEeXRigLFnYDQBg&ved=0CIgBEKYrMAI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

... just right to fill the entire E-switch area with highly conductive, high-heat-capacity synthetic ice. It can't get any closer to perfect than this.

With a good idea of how the temperature's behaving now (but no good tools known to track/log it... ugh!), I'll be filling that area with a solid brick of ice not too long from now, and see what it does then. I haven't yet seen "5 bars" on the temp gauge all summer - despite my best efforts at cooling under the hood, the closest I could get it was 10 degrees over ambient, about 85 F by Leaf Spy's report. :/

Today with a high of about 75 F, while the outside temp was 69 F, I couldn't get the batteries below 85 - even still. It's driving me nuts! :x
 
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