"EV Chargers by AEFA" NEMA 14-30 Level 2 Charger

[Gusset]

(Note: this charger is available in a variety of plug/current level configurations, not just 24A/14-30.)

We purchased our 2019 Leaf SV Plus about 5-6 weeks ago. Our garage has a 14-30 outlet wired to a 30A breaker as a welder circuit. After spending a few days looking for 24A, 14-30 plug units and developing a case of analysis paralysis over it, I settled on this one…the EV dealer we bought our car from uses Wallbox EVSEs, and this one is sold by the same folks. 4 weeks is not enough time to assess a unit’s reliability, but I figure I must not be the only EV newbie who’s wrestled with choosing an EVSE for this outlet/breaker size, so maybe this little quasi-review will give someone something to think about.

https://ev-chargers.com/nema-14-30/nema-14-30-level-2-ev-charger/

I won’t repeat a great deal of the technical specs…anyone interested can check out the web site. This is not a smart charger- no cell phone, wifi, or other connectivity. Current can be reduced from the unit’s max rating, and when plugging it into the car, it can be set to delay charging. Beyond that, operation is pretty basic. When the unit is not charging, it displays lifetime energy transfer…in the pic below, you can see that it’s put 235.89 kWh into the car over its life so far.


Installation

The EVSE comes with a fairly nice sheet metal wall hanger with a built-in hook for the cord. The design is set up to have the 14-30 outlet above the EVSE housing/hanger, and clearly assumes that the 14-30 outlet is fairly high off the ground. Unfortunately the outlet I have is closer to the ground, and the cord is only about 12 inches long. No way it will fit below my outlet as intended. Oops.

After discussing things with a journeyman electrician, we rotated my 14-30 outlet 180 degrees to enable the cord to run upward from the outlet. Then I could at least then wrap the cord around for correct orientation of the EVSE housing so I could read the display. It’s still too close to the ground for the cord to utilize the hanger’s cord hook, so I cobbled together a temporary method to hang the cord and keep it off the ground.


So while I’m mildly disappointed with the design’s inflexibility where orientation is concerned, I have to take responsibility for not taking this into consideration when I was trying to choose an EVSE.

Charging

Not much to say, here. I just plug it into the car when I want to charge, and let the car control the schedule via the charge timers. When charging is in progress, the display changes to indicate the current charging session numbers- max current setting, charging time, instantaneous voltage/current/wattage, and session kWh. The LEDs around the outside of the housing animate when charging.


Other

Good packaging. The carrying case is nice and sturdy. As for size, it seems a pretty compact unit.

The cable is plenty flexible, though I haven’t used it in cold weather. Also, this is a 24A version of the product, and I don’t know if the higher current versions have a thicker, stiffer cable or not.

The manual is OK. It’s generally useful, but it has a couple of minor discrepancies that lead me to believe it’s a copy/paste from a previous product’s manual, and that they missed a few spots when updating it for this specific model.

Final Thoughts

I’m new to EVs, so my thoughts unfortunately can’t include comparison or experience. I also haven’t (yet?) encountered any issues that might throw a fault code, so I can’t speak to how the product deals with anything abnormal.

Having said that, even with the mounting challenges, I’m pretty happy with this purchase. It gave me what I wanted- not a lot of gizmos and overly full features to try to figure out or that can have issues. Just plug into the car if I want to charge up, then walk away.

I'll update this as appropriate as I learn/experience more.

Let me know any questions.

 

[jjeff]

You might not be able to test this, living in WA, but how do you think the cord would handle in single-digit or even negative temps? Does the cord have a rubber-type jacket or is it a shinny vinal covering? I ask because I've purchased several EVSEs over the years and in single-digit or colder temps, some get so stiff you can't really bend them. It's amazing how a cord can be flexible at say 40 or 50 degrees but much colder and it gets stiff as a board. I looked at your link and it gave a temperature range of 22F to 140F but I can't believe it wouldn't be usable below 22F or it wouldn't be too usable for much of the midwest that regularly gets to 0F or colder in the winter. Of course it would probably be ok in an insulated attached garage but still wonder why the 22F limit in the specs.... The 140F is way overkill for my location as we haven't seen a +100F temp in years but I suppose temps could get +110 in areas of the southern US.
What are the various amperage settings and if it has a 12a setting, do you know if it could be used on a standard 120v outlet with an outlet adapter? The specs just list 208v-240v but most all Chinese EVSEs I've used also work just fine on 120v with the proper outlet adapter, you just need to make sure you can limit the charge rate to 12a or the maximum your 120v outlet can handle but note some EVs top out at 12a @ 120v or allow you to set the maximum charge current on the car, although I don't believe either case applies to a Leaf, earlier generations anyway.
Nice review and photos, always nice to have good-priced alternatives for charging.

 

[marshallinwash]

It's not UL listed, so it's not an EVSE I would buy, and it wouldn't qualify for my local utility's $600 credit.

I'm a bit surprised you didn't spend the money and have the electrician run a new 50 amp circuit from the breaker panel, since it's right next to where your outlet is located.

In addition, I don't like using receptacles due to the increase in fire danger with residential grade receptacles. However you might be OK if only pulling 24 amps. Just make sure you keep an eye out on how hot it gets periodically, especially if you charge for hours at a time.

 

[cornbinder89]

It's not UL listed, so it's not an EVSE I would buy, and it wouldn't qualify for my local utility's $600 credit.

I'm a bit surprised you didn't spend the money and have the electrician run a new 50 amp circuit from the breaker panel, since it's right next to where your outlet is located.

In addition, I don't like using receptacles due to the increase in fire danger with residential grade receptacles. However you might be OK if only pulling 24 amps. Just make sure you keep an eye out on how hot it gets periodically, especially if you charge for hours at a time.

There are a plethora of EVSE out there that aren't UL rated. While I think if one is purchasing a unit, it should be one of the things that is a must.
That said, we aren't seeing fires left and right, being traced back to these non-listed EVSE's.
I have one of these non-listed EVSE's that came with the used Leaf I bought. It is not one I would chose knowing what I know now.
24 amp vs 27.5 amps: it is hard to justify the cost to change something vs what is already there and requires no change. The rate-how fast it will recharge, is so little between the two I wouldn't bother.

Spec grade vs industrial grade outlets really come down to how often things a plugged or un-plugged how well the outlet can maintain the spring tension on the contacts throughout all those plug/unplug cycles..
Put this in you mind and chew on it a bit: a 30 amp plug and a 50 amp plug have the same surface area on the current carrying prongs, so to say a 50 amp can better handle a 24 or 27.5 amp load over a 30 amp is false. What is different between the two is the orientation of the prongs. Feed wire and proper torque on the connection screws will make a much bigger difference.
I think the Spec vs industrial grade is way over-blown, especially on devices that are left plugged in. The few that we've seen it is almost always only one contact that is burned, but two carry the exact same load, so one would expect both would suffer same damage, as they carried the same current for the same amount of time. When I see damage where one connection over-heated, it is the connection between the feed cable and the receptacle where the problem lies.
A 50 amp range plug will be loaded way beyond what a Leaf can load a 50 amp circuit, and are all over the US without a high failure rate.
Getting back to EVSE's. The unit that came with my Leaf, will set a trouble code(s) when operated on the Leaf's onboard charge timer. If started and stopped by plugging in and unplugging from the car, no code. The EVSE is not shutting down properly when the timer/OBC is signaling to shut down. This causes multiple codes to be set, but no problems, and the codes "clear" when shutting off and re-starting, but the code remain in memory.

Because I use my Leaf to make one run to town most days, I can use the OEM 120 volt trickle charger to re charge over night on the timer, and the 32 amp EVSE to "quick charge" at 27.5 amps if I need to make a 2nd trip somewhere.

 

[marshallinwash]

There are a plethora of EVSE out there that aren't UL rated. While I think if one is purchasing a unit, it should be one of the things that is a must.
That said, we aren't seeing fires left and right, being traced back to these non-listed EVSE's.
I have one of these non-listed EVSE's that came with the used Leaf I bought. It is not one I would chose knowing what I know now.
24 amp vs 27.5 amps: it is hard to justify the cost to change something vs what is already there and requires no change. The rate-how fast it will recharge, is so little between the two I wouldn't bother.

Spec grade vs industrial grade outlets really come down to how often things a plugged or un-plugged how well the outlet can maintain the spring tension on the contacts throughout all those plug/unplug cycles..
Put this in you mind and chew on it a bit: a 30 amp plug and a 50 amp plug have the same surface area on the current carrying prongs, so to say a 50 amp can better handle a 24 or 27.5 amp load over a 30 amp is false. What is different between the two is the orientation of the prongs. Feed wire and proper torque on the connection screws will make a much bigger difference.
I think the Spec vs industrial grade is way over-blown, especially on devices that are left plugged in. The few that we've seen it is almost always only one contact that is burned, but two carry the exact same load, so one would expect both would suffer same damage, as they carried the same current for the same amount of time. When I see damage where one connection over-heated, it is the connection between the feed cable and the receptacle where the problem lies.
A 50 amp range plug will be loaded way beyond what a Leaf can load a 50 amp circuit, and are all over the US without a high failure rate.
Getting back to EVSE's. The unit that came with my Leaf, will set a trouble code(s) when operated on the Leaf's onboard charge timer. If started and stopped by plugging in and unplugging from the car, no code. The EVSE is not shutting down properly when the timer/OBC is signaling to shut down. This causes multiple codes to be set, but no problems, and the codes "clear" when shutting off and re-starting, but the code remain in memory.

Because I use my Leaf to make one run to town most days, I can use the OEM 120 volt trickle charger to re charge over night on the timer, and the 32 amp EVSE to "quick charge" at 27.5 amps if I need to make a 2nd trip somewhere.

Personally, I've hand-wired my EVSE.

If using a receptacle, I would go with the one designed for EVSE installations.
https://leviton.com/products/1450r

It's a bit out-dated, but this Tesla thread sheds some light on the issue.

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/master-thread-definitive-14-50-nema-outlet-guide.140694/

 

[Gusset]

You might not be able to test this, living in WA, but how do you think the cord would handle in single-digit or even negative temps? Does the cord have a rubber-type jacket or is it a shinny vinal covering? I ask because I've purchased several EVSEs over the years and in single-digit or colder temps, some get so stiff you can't really bend them. It's amazing how a cord can be flexible at say 40 or 50 degrees but much colder and it gets stiff as a board. I looked at your link and it gave a temperature range of 22F to 140F but I can't believe it wouldn't be usable below 22F or it wouldn't be too usable for much of the midwest that regularly gets to 0F or colder in the winter.

I was also surprised by the 22F lower spec temperature. Typo maybe? You're correct...single digit temperatures are rare in my neck of the woods. We see sub-20s at some point every winter, and I'll probably see about leaving the cable out just for my own curiosity's sake. If I do I'll add it here. The cord has a rubber jacket.

What are the various amperage settings and if it has a 12a setting, do you know if it could be used on a standard 120v outlet with an outlet adapter?
Nice review and photos, always nice to have good-priced alternatives for charging.

Thanks for the kind words. I can't really speak to the adapter question, but I'd guess it's not intended to be used with a 120V adapter, just because there isn't one on their accessories page.

It's not UL listed, so it's not an EVSE I would buy, and it wouldn't qualify for my local utility's $600 credit.

The spec listing shows "CE, CB & TUV Approved", which are EU certifications (the company originated in the UK). Though I have spent the odd moment in my career jumping through EU certification hoops (non-electrical related), I'm no expert. During my search, I spent a few minutes looking into it, and concluded that this unit had to undergo safety certification processes before it could be sold in the EU, and the EU regulations I've had to deal with are fairly thorough. If you know something I don't, please elaborate...any opportunity to learn is welcome.

I'm a bit surprised you didn't spend the money and have the electrician run a new 50 amp circuit from the breaker panel, since it's right next to where your outlet is located.

I heard similar thoughts a few times on this forum when I asked for recommendations for a 24A/14-30 EVSE. I see no motivation to fix what isn't broken...a 24A circuit charges a Leaf at ~5.9 kW, which is only ~0.7 kW less than the maximum a Leaf can take. Unless I'm dying to part with 5 or 10 more C-Notes, it seems silly to me.

 

[cwerdna]

The spec listing shows "CE, CB & TUV Approved", which are EU certifications (the company originated in the UK). Though I have spent the odd moment in my career jumping through EU certification hoops (non-electrical related), I'm no expert. During my search, I spent a few minutes looking into it, and concluded that this unit had to undergo safety certification processes before it could be sold in the EU, and the EU regulations I've had to deal with are fairly thorough. If you know something I don't, please elaborate...any opportunity to learn is welcome.

I've been in the EV space since before July 2013 when I got my first Leaf. I've never heard of AEFA.

CE markings can be faked. Last slide of https://www.macheforum.com/site/att..._iwc_-_evse_safety_analysis-et-1-1-pdf.51197/ mentions use caution when purchasing EVSEs with CE and TUV markings.

If it's something that's not NRTL-certified, I steer clear. I don't really have the time right now to elaborate, but you can take a look at these below:
https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/mustart-chargers-damaging-cars.39601/?post_id=627873#post-627873
https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/a...ok-ok-evse….43039/?post_id=705034#post-705034
https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/w...ght-on-fire.39647/?post_id=628690#post-628690

Of course, you can exclude Juicebox as one to buy now.

I found and tend to agree. The was an answer to .

I would lump this EVSE as random stuff, possibly junk/crap from Amazon. I found the quote that guy mentioned via https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTHZTGR6 and searching for UL certified in the Q&A.

Visit https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/Tx1BT71MARNY1EG/ref=ask_dp_lsw_al_hza?asin=B0CTHZTGR6 and https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/Tx49XIRSD5UZ60/ref=ask_dp_lsw_al_hza?asin=B0CTHZTGR6.

"The electrical control box, like most EV chargers, is not" is a total crap cop out answer. There are PLENTY of level 2 EVSEs sold in the US that are NRTL-certified. I wouldn't have bought this.

 

[BillAinCT]

If using a receptacle, I would go with the one designed for EVSE installations.
https://leviton.com/products/1450r

But it's made in China, and sorry, I don't trust any markings it may have on it or in the quality. But most are this way so you get what you get.

 

[Gusset]

CE markings can be faked. Last slide of https://www.macheforum.com/site/att..._iwc_-_evse_safety_analysis-et-1-1-pdf.51197/ mentions use caution when purchasing EVSEs with CE and TUV markings.

If it's something that's not NRTL-certified, I steer clear. I don't really have the time right now to elaborate, but you can take a look at these below:
https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/mustart-chargers-damaging-cars.39601/?post_id=627873#post-627873
https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/another-“which-l2-charger-should-i-buy”-thread-ok-ok-evse….43039/?post_id=705034#post-705034
https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/w...ght-on-fire.39647/?post_id=628690#post-628690
...
I would lump this EVSE as random stuff, possibly junk/crap from Amazon.

NRTL certification = ideal. No arguments there. Those are informative discussion links, educational. Thanks. Adds a bit more to what I've learned since buying this car.

I did some digging last night, and found AEFA's plugs and cables in TUV and UL databases…either they're real certified components, or they've gone so far as to add someone else's part numbers to go with the stamp. You've made some strong generalizations (equating anything without NRTL with Mostart), and I tend to be wary of those, but what's your take? They don't have the physical feel of cheap, poorly built/toleranced parts, but I haven't looked at the innards. I didn’t check into the other standards they list on their web pages/manual.

https://www.certipedia.com/certificates/50621408?locale=en
https://productiq.ulprospector.com/en/profile/5016675/ffso.e527590?term=E527590&page=1

 

[marshallinwash]

Unless I'm dying to part with 5 or 10 more C-Notes, it seems silly to me.

Where is this number coming from? Your photo shows the breaker panel next to the outlet you are currently using.

 

[Gusset]

Where is this number coming from? Your photo shows the breaker panel next to the outlet you are currently using.

Online posts and such from when I looked into it a number of weeks ago, some of which may have been for further from the panel, so point taken. As I type this, I'm thinking a better SWAG would likely be $400-500.

 

[cwerdna]

NRTL certification = ideal. No arguments there. Those are informative discussion links, educational. Thanks. Adds a bit more to what I've learned since buying this car.

I did some digging last night, and found AEFA's plugs and cables in TUV and UL databases…either they're real certified components, or they've gone so far as to add someone else's part numbers to go with the stamp. You've made some strong generalizations (equating anything without NRTL with Mostart), and I tend to be wary of those, but what's your take? They don't have the physical feel of cheap, poorly built/toleranced parts, but I haven't looked at the innards. I didn’t check into the other standards they list on their web pages/manual.

https://www.certipedia.com/certificates/50621408?locale=en
https://productiq.ulprospector.com/en/profile/5016675/ffso.e527590?term=E527590&page=1
View attachment 5750

I don't have time to elaborate right now. I had 1.5 hours of work meetings this morning + I have my day job. Might get to it tonight (10+ hours from now) or in the next few days.

Although not directly comparable, http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html and http://www.righto.com/2012/03/inside-cheap-phone-charger-and-why-you.html point out things that can be bad to dangerous in just USB "wall warts". I bet you the poorly designed/bad ones are NOT NRTL-certified whereas the safe, ok to good ones are from large companies that can at least hire competent EEs + have a good system of checks and balances and has a legal team vs. a nameless random company that can just hide if things go sideways.

I'd MUCH rather have something that has gone thru the testing and certification processes of NRTLs than one that hasn't (or they tried and failed).

 

[cwerdna]

NRTL certification = ideal. No arguments there. Those are informative discussion links, educational. Thanks. Adds a bit more to what I've learned since buying this car.

I did some digging last night, and found AEFA's plugs and cables in TUV and UL databases…either they're real certified components, or they've gone so far as to add someone else's part numbers to go with the stamp. You've made some strong generalizations (equating anything without NRTL with Mostart), and I tend to be wary of those, but what's your take? They don't have the physical feel of cheap, poorly built/toleranced parts, but I haven't looked at the innards. I didn’t check into the other standards they list on their web pages/manual.

So "physical feel of cheap, poorly built/toleranced parts" doesn't tell you anything about the innards and whether they implemented safety features or even built a safe device that won't damage the vehicle or cause a fire or shock hazard.

I've already pointed to Mustart handles that overheat and damage inlets:
https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/charge-port-meltdown.39239
https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/mustart-chargers-damaging-cars.39601/
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...-didnt-use-kia-factory-approved-charger.11783

There was a long story and some finger pointing between Nissan and GE about their consumer Wattstations blowing the diode on the '11 and '12 Leaf's on-board charger. It's a long story...
https://www.engadget.com/2012-07-18...ion-embroiled-in-charging-damage-shocker.html
https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/leaf-software-caused-obc-to-fail-not-wattstation-fix-coming.9543/
https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/le...-not-wattstation-fix-coming.9543/#post-216447

Badly or improperly made handles could put excess wear on the car's inlet:
https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/duosida-evse-just-arrived.22692/page-2#post-473786
https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/duosida-evse-just-arrived.22692/page-8#post-553542

J1772 isn't even used in China. They use their own GB/T AC charging standard so it's unlikely that even 50% of their employees w/EVs would be dogfooding their own product since they won't even have EVs w/that inlet and the EV market in China is TOTALLY different. Look at the top selling models there (e.g. https://autovista24.autovistagroup....se-ev-market-while-aito-wuling-enjoy-success/).

Someone here tried to come up with a "BareEVSE": https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/bareevse-an-evse-circuit-for-under-5.11474/. Below were some example criticisms.
https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/bareevse-an-evse-circuit-for-under-5.11474/#post-264924
https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/bareevse-an-evse-circuit-for-under-5.11474/#post-265220
https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/bareevse-an-evse-circuit-for-under-5.11474/#post-265350
https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/bareevse-an-evse-circuit-for-under-5.11474/page-2#post-265506

The above is something that might work but also might damage the car. If a no-name company isn't dogfooding their own product (J1772 EVs aren't sold in China), what's to say that they've done everything right to spec? And, if their product turns out to be crap, they can just rebrand themselves and sell under some other name on Amazon or some other place.

If you are unlucky enough to have an no-name EVSE that damages your vehicle (not talking about the inlet), what are the odds they will back you up or investigate the issue?

If you buy a no-name EVSE, you put yourself at greater risk. This why I pointed to UL or ETL certification. Better to stick w/reputable brands w/a presence in the US like Clipper Creek (now Enphase), ChargePoint, Webasto (former EV charging biz of Aerovironment: https://investor.avinc.com/news-rel...ovironment-electric-vehicle-charging-and-test). I've heard good things about Autel at chevybolt.org even though they are a Chinese company.

 

[cwerdna]

https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/l...mps.57367/page-2?post_id=1004617#post-1004617 is another good post on not buying random crap EVSEs. I agree with that post.

 

[jc2024Leaf]

Ok, I just found this thread after posting about my interest in the Mustrart so I'm back to square one.

For the OP, I'd recommend checking the existing wiring (is it THHN, or Romex...?) or , installing a commercial/industrial grade receptacle. What's installed might be good enough for intermittent use, but not for continuous charging of an EV. At a minimum, making sure the screws on the receptacle and breaker are torqued to the manufacturer's specifications are a must. I believe a lot of the fires we have been seeing are due to arching/poor connections. One of my co-workers had a sub panel and Tesla EVSE installed for his Model 3. A fire in the subpanel almost burnt down his garage. Fire Marshal didn't pin down the problem, but all the work was done by a licensed electrician.

 

[Gusset]

Further follow-up. CE third party certification:

http://certificate.entecerma.it/Pdf/0P220915.CHTQQ54.pdf

No faked certifications/marks in evidence for this EVSE.

 

[jc2024Leaf]

I was impressed with the AEFA line of chargers. It seems like they have one base charger and put different plugs/cords on it.

 

[BillAinCT]

Don't overlook the Emporia EVSE. UL. And has a decent app to set the charging current and start and stop time. It also tallies monthly charging costs.