Fail to charge car after battery swap

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Toucouleur

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2019
Messages
11
Hello and sorry for bothering everyone. I'm desperate because I got the the bad idea to try to upgrade my 2011 Nissan Leaf with a "53KWH Nissan Leaf Battery Pack with Original CATL NCM 150Ah Module Above 98%" I bought in China with Alibaba. I received it, and the overall construction is really good. We started to remove the old battery, took the BMS out, and installed the BMS like they explained us on the new battery pack.

Then I thought it was done. But nightmare just begin (and it last now for weeks now cause I'm not a professional and don't have easily access to a forklift, neither to the car which is far away from where I work and live). After I installed the new battery, I successfully started the car and drove about 2 minutes in the parking just to move the car. Then I tried to charge it. It started, but immediately stopped after 1 minutes or so.

After getting a nice chat with the Chinese support team, they suggested me to remove again the 12v battery and "reset the car using the button of the door of the car after 5 minutes you let the car closed" (is this really useful?), and then remove all DTC errors with LeafSpy and try again. Then... I can start again the car while it says the battery level is super low. So, stop the car, plug to the charger... and then it stops again after 1 minutes (I can clearly see the first blue dot behind the windshield blinking like in the old time). But after 1 minutes it stop, and got a lot of error again.

I can't start the car without clearing all DTC message.

I don't saw the P3102 error (using latest Leaf Spy Pro)

Chinese team shipped with the battery, a can Bridge I didn't installed yet. I thought the purpose of this was to trick the range calculator.

What makes me worry (a lot) is whenever I go in LeafSpy, it reports an error on a ceil #89. To be honest we already triple checked the module which refers to this ceil, and all is good (voltage is good, wires to BMS are good). And the difference of voltage is at best at 122mV as suggest LeafSpy.

If I can hire somebody to just chat with him by phone and get some advices, to make this nice car works again, it would be great (hire = I will pay!)

I attached few screenshots I took on last attempts I did on the car last week.

thanks for reading

Cédric
 

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Chinese team shipped with the battery, a can Bridge I didn't installed yet. I thought the purpose of this was to trick the range calculator.
Until you complete the installation as required by the battery supplier (e.g. install the CAN-bridge)...all bets are off.
You can try posting LeafSpy screen shots (like DTCs) after that, but right now it's a waste of time.
 
The P0AA6 code needs to be corrected, or no go. Google around to learn about the issue. Also, wear gloves! High voltage may be present in unlikely places.

The lowest cell at 3.55 volts is not so low it that it would inhibit charging or driving. Close, but not there yet.
 
"POAA6 what is this error?"

POAA6 is a High Voltage Isolation error. It is a big one, but it can also be thrown erroneously by a low 12 volt, which is why in the other thread I said to charge, load test and report back.
That said, something has drawn the one cell down below the rest. Also your 12 volt battery voltage is low.
POAA6 also throws a "interlock" code which will prevent driving and I think charging. I'd have to look in the manual.
If you don't already have a copy of the service manual, you are going to need to get one. The 2011 (up to model year 2015) are available for free download from the NICO site (Nissan owners group).
I agree that the CAN Bridge needs to be installed for the communications to work properly, so get that done, but I think there is going to be more to your problem than a CAN bridge and low 12 volt.
Take it one step at a time, and keep at it.
 
You have lots of U-codes (CAN Buss faults), plus many low power supply faults for various ECUs. These both point to an old, weak or worn out 12V battery to me. A good, strong 12V battery is necessary for the operating system to power up and communicate.

All 4 of the charger faults are CAN faults, which could be wiring harness or connector corrosion issues, or due to a low 12V battery power supply.
 
IMHO @Toucouleur
1) complete the installation before to do any meaningful analysis
2) put a well charged and reliable 12v battery
3) remove any DTC using leafspy pro (for some errors you have to turnoff/on the car for other they can be removed directly), you do not have leafspy pro? you will live with big problems => buy it!
4) low cell could be a simple balancing issue that you can solve manually rising the voltage of that cell but opening the pack. Or do some discharge/charge slowly sessions to allow the BMS to work to balance (but it would take looooooooong time)
4.1) if you decide to balance manually BEWARE THAT HIGH VOLTAGE IS SERIOUSLY DANGEROUS! you have to manage it with proper tools and wear
5) low cell does not means so much if you do not give a dynamic report of the pack, e.g. how the cells change their voltage during high load ot the battery (e.g. strong accelerations for many seconds)
6) if after removed DTC you continue with isolation issue, get a Megaohmeter and check what module give isolation issue and ask for a replacement.
 
What makes me worry (a lot) is whenever I go in LeafSpy, it reports an error on a ceil #89. To be honest we already triple checked the module which refers to this ceil, and all is good (voltage is good, wires to BMS are good). And the difference of voltage is at best at 122mV as suggest LeafSpy.
??? if all cells have good voltage why do you confirm that there is 122mv difference? In any case, wrong lecture could be due to connection harness or a malfunction in the BMS. Please use a good quality multimeter to do measurements.
My experience is that there is a difference between what measured by BMS is what is measured with a multimeter, just a constant voltage drift.
 
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