Fogs as DRL - wiring mod

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juneau99803

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2024
Messages
8
Location
Alaska
Our 2022 ZE1 (halogen headlights) lacks daylight running lights. After reading through the various options described here, and other forums, I studied the wiring diagrams, and performed tests on the car. The car lacks the circuitry, relays, wiring, and logic which make a real DRL solution possible. My chosen modification repurposes the fogs as DRLs with a single wire. The lights come on with the ignition, but are not tied (as proper DLRs would be) to the gear selector and parking brake.

The idea is to pull fuse #10 (which takes the output of the fog lamp control relay), and instead feed the lights from fuse #16 (which powers the reverse lamps and backup camera). Both of these fuses are in the same fuse box, and easily accessible. Note that the fuse numbers in the wiring diagrams for the ZE1 are 50 higher than the labels in the fuse box (i.e. #10 in the box appears as #50 in the diagram).

I used one 'add a circuit', and one hot-wire fuse tap to accomplish this. I'm using the 'add a circuit' to 'feed' the lamps, rather than 'tap' the power, so we leave the original circuit open (i.e. no fuse) and have the new fuse connected to the the lamp-side of fuse #10. Due to interference between the plastic fuse box and the recessed fuses, I was unable to use an 'add a circuit' to tap fuse #16. Instead, I used a cruder brass shim which fit in beside the original fuse.


Parts.jpeg
Locations.jpeg

Installed.jpeg

With this mod, the fogs come on with the ignition, and the control knob for them does nothing (except toggle the relay). It is contained fully in the fuse box, and is entirely reversible.

I know there are plenty here to hate on DRLs, or assert that this modification is in violation of their local laws, or that one should just manually switch their headlamps on and off like it's 1984. To those I say, "You do you." I'm going to run with this and see how it works out. If I don't like it, I'll pull the wire out and re-install fuse #10.
 
Well done.
My 2019 has that feature, and, most everyone around here has DRL. Not sure why your later model would be lacking.
I hated it at first since I ride a motorcycle and it can get a little confusing but everyone adapted and now I turn my headlights on much more often in my other vehicles.
 
I don’t like DRL. Our cars are older and none has DRL, but recently on a long road trip, I came to the conclusion that it is better to just drive with full head and tail lights. In rainy and foggy conditions, it is helpful to be able to see tail lights on the cars ahead of me. Also, some DRL front lights are just inadequate because they are too small, not bright enough, or oddly shaped and do not immediately translate into “front lights”.

I have a 2013 Leaf and just leave the full lights (low beam) on all the time when driving. If you start the car and turn the lights on, when you turn the car off, the lights will go off automatically. You can adjust how long they stay on after the car is turned off. Next time you start up the car, the lights will come on automatically. No electrical circuit modifications are necessary. I presume all Leaf years have that feature.

I have noticed that sometimes drivers with DRL lights that are bright enough to drive after dark forget to turn on their full headlights when the sun goes down, or when it is raining, resulting in no tail lights when it is dark.

The reason for DRL is good because it makes it easier for other drivers to see you, especially under adverse visibility conditions, but its implementation, in my opinion, was done without much forethought.
 
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I don’t like DRL. Our cars are older and none has DRL, but recently on a long road trip, I came to the conclusion that it is better to just drive with full head and tail lights. In rainy and foggy conditions, it is helpful to be able to see tail lights on the cars ahead of me. Also, some DRL front lights are just inadequate because they are too small, not bright enough, or oddly shaped and do not immediately translate into “front lights”.

I have a 2013 Leaf and just leave the full lights (low beam) on all the time when driving. If you start the car and turn the lights on, when you turn the car off, the lights will go off automatically. You can adjust how long they stay on after the car is turned off. Next time you start up the car, the lights will come on automatically. No electrical circuit modifications are necessary. I presume all Leaf years have that feature.

I have noticed that sometimes drivers with DRL lights that are bright enough to drive after dark forget to turn on their full headlights when the sun goes down, or when it is raining, resulting in no tail lights when it is dark.

The reason for DRL is good because it makes it easier for other drivers to see you, especially under adverse visibility conditions, but its implementation, in my opinion, was done without much forethought.
Agree, and think DRL should turn on rear lights too.
 
Agree, and think DRL should turn on rear lights too.
On a 2018 JDM Leaf, the DRL and tail lights come on when the switch is in the park lights position - for some other markets the DRL lights come on and no others, so it is probably just programming. Smart people have figured out a lot of option settings e.g. in LeafSpy so maybe this can be another setting in future....

I guess a better way to phrase this is that my 2018 Leaf doesn't have DRL as such, but the park lights function is equal to DRL + tail lights so suits me fine :) But given all the other settable options, I imagine this is just another software thing.
 
On a 2018 JDM Leaf, the DRL and tail lights come on when the switch is in the park lights position - for some other markets the DRL lights come on and no others, so it is probably just programming. Smart people have figured out a lot of option settings e.g. in LeafSpy so maybe this can be another setting in future....

I guess a better way to phrase this is that my 2018 Leaf doesn't have DRL as such, but the park lights function is equal to DRL + tail lights so suits me fine :) But given all the other settable options, I imagine this is just another software thing.
Yeah i know my Leaf ids 2018 G model and it turns tail light on as well.
 
I think DRL with only the parking lights on in front is inadequate.

Doing as I describe above with full lights all the time I still think is better and also you don't have to remember to turn on full headlights when it starts getting dark or starts raining.
 
I think DRL with only the parking lights on in front is inadequate.
Agreed, in fact I use normal low beam headlights all the time - I was just pointing out that some models/markets of Leaf do turn on tail lights along with the DRL's. There are all kinds of combinations of a) what the particular model does and b) what the driver wants to do and c) what is "best"
 
Agreed, in fact I use normal low beam headlights all the time - I was just pointing out that some models/markets of Leaf do turn on tail lights along with the DRL's. There are all kinds of combinations of a) what the particular model does and b) what the driver wants to do and c) what is "best"
Yeah mine does :)
 
Thank you for the detailed write-up! We'll take in this new Leaf project once we clear the Ranger in the garage. The bumper and fender flares showed up and we'll finish that long with the brake job tomorrow. Gonna start the light mods on the Leaf including the DIY fog.
 
Why not just cover the autolight sensor on the dashboard and avoid risking burning out some component?
Covering the sensor and forcing the headlights on . . forces the headlights on, it doesn't turn on the fogs. And I don't want to burn my halogen headlights all the time the car is in use.

Why not? High-output halogen headlight bulbs have a finite life and don't just 'wink out' when they die. The bulbs dim as they incandesce; a year-old bulb does not generate as many lumens as a new bulb. This can be seen by replacing one of your old (but operational bulbs), and pointing your car at a wall with the headlights on. I want to save those lumens for the black, wet nights which seem to suck every photon which can be thrown out.

As for the risk of burning out some component, that is a risk I'm totally willing to take. I don't ask anyone else to take it; I'm offering notes on my work in the hope others will find it interesting or helpful. I studied the wiring diagrams, and step-by-step tested all of the connectors (to confirm they conformed the diagrams) before I implemented this. And when performing the work, I used appropriate sized wires, connectors, and fuses. I have confidence that my modification is not going to 'burn out some component' in my car.
 
...I'm going to run with this and see how it works out. If I don't like it, I'll pull the wire out and re-install fuse #10.

Reporting back after a couple of months.

Shortly after performing the mod, I replaced the halogen fog lamp bulbs with some LED bulbs. My goal was to reduce the steady power draw from 5amps down to something between 1 and 2 amps. That worked, but after some actual road tests, I have re-installed the halogen fog lamp bulbs and will accept the 5amp draw. Why?

The LEDs drew less current, but it is nigh impossible to find 'low output' LED bulbs. Every LED-replacement H8 bulb sold is marketed as producing more lumens than their competition. The reflectors in the fog lamps are of a very basic design, and do not provide a hard horizon (i.e. they leak some light higher than is desirable). With low-output H8 bulbs, the leaking light is enough to be seen by oncoming drivers but not enough to dazzle them. But leaking the same percentage from high-output LED bulbs was enough to dazzle me as I drove towards our car. And really, when compared to the rest of the power consumption on our car, the difference of 4amps of 12v is picking nits.

My conclusion is:
  1. The wiring mod is a success and does just what I hoped it would.
  2. The original halogen bulbs in the fogs are preferable to LED replacements.
 
Reporting back after a couple of months.

Shortly after performing the mod, I replaced the halogen fog lamp bulbs with some LED bulbs. My goal was to reduce the steady power draw from 5amps down to something between 1 and 2 amps. That worked, but after some actual road tests, I have re-installed the halogen fog lamp bulbs and will accept the 5amp draw. Why?

The LEDs drew less current, but it is nigh impossible to find 'low output' LED bulbs. Every LED-replacement H8 bulb sold is marketed as producing more lumens than their competition. The reflectors in the fog lamps are of a very basic design, and do not provide a hard horizon (i.e. they leak some light higher than is desirable). With low-output H8 bulbs, the leaking light is enough to be seen by oncoming drivers but not enough to dazzle them. But leaking the same percentage from high-output LED bulbs was enough to dazzle me as I drove towards our car. And really, when compared to the rest of the power consumption on our car, the difference of 4amps of 12v is picking nits.

My conclusion is:
  1. The wiring mod is a success and does just what I hoped it would.
  2. The original halogen bulbs in the fogs are preferable to LED replacements.
I am not wire-modded but I put 15-watt each amber LEDs in my fog lamps, they aren't as painful for other drivers even with the always higher lumen output specifications that LEDs get. 2.5 amps total draw. https://a.co/d/5xF5UwJ
 
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