Gen 1 vs Gen 2, 62kWh Degradation, and other questions

[Bombastinator2]

Way off topic, but I got a new in the box i5-13600KF sitting on my desk just waiting for my next budget build.

[still off topic] 6xxx or 30X0 GPU so you can upscale from something small? It’s what I do. (I got the same handle on overclock.net btw. You can post there if you want)

 

[Bombastinator2]

I've had a 2014 24kwh leaf for 4years now, when I got it was 79.8% soh.Now its 74.44% soh from leaf spy. 59,000 km. Love it for around town, has payed for itself.
Looking to upgrade to 2019 62kwh 89.45% soh, only for the newer version & longer range.
Just about all leafs sold by car dealers in New Zealand show leaf spy data on the Trademe.co.nz trading web site so its easy to compare age to soh to km to quick/slow charges & battery size.
Ive found the biggest battery degradation is due to age (approx 1.1% per year for my 2014 leaf since I've had it & 3% overall)
km & quick/slow charging have little to do with it, they range from 2% to 3% per year.
There are ones outside of this range so look for the highest soh per year

Iirc Japanese used cars are bangin’ in NZ and AU because they’re often in terrific shape since the Japanese dislike used cars so they just ship them there.

 

[Bombastinator2]

No entiendo muy bien la preocupación en la degradación de los paquetes de 62kwh, veo más importante la caída de voltaje después de cierto porcentaje, no sé qué se puede decir sobre esta captura pero esta batería no llega a los 175km.View attachment 4225View attachment 4227

Eww… spikey :/ might be the same thing. Above my understanding level

Machine translation much like autocorrect is going to kill us all someday if it ever gets used for important stuff. It’s terrific until it isn’t and then oh wow!

 

[Jeffs231Leafp]

I've had a 2014 24kwh leaf for 4years now, when I got it was 79.8% soh.Now its 74.44% soh from leaf spy. 59,000 km. Love it for around town, has payed for itself.
Looking to upgrade to 2019 62kwh 89.45% soh, only for the newer version & longer range.
Just about all leafs sold by car dealers in New Zealand show leaf spy data on the Trademe.co.nz trading web site so its easy to compare age to soh to km to quick/slow charges & battery size.
Ive found the biggest battery degradation is due to age (approx 1.1% per year for my 2014 leaf since I've had it & 3% overall)
km & quick/slow charging have little to do with it, they range from 2% to 3% per year.
There are ones outside of this range so look for the highest soh per year

The Nissan LEAF Wiki Website claims that, according to an April 2011 Service Manual (page MWI-23), the first bars will disappear when the capacity drops below the percentages in the table on the left.

FYI:
12 bars = 100% to 85%
11 bars = 85% to 78.75%
10 bars = 78.75% to 72.5%
9 bars = 72.5% to 66.25%
8 bars = 66.25% to 60%
7 bars = 60% to 53.75%
6 bars = 53.75% to 47.5%
5 bars = 47.5% to 41.25%
4 bars= 41.25% to 35%
3 bars = 35% to 28.75%
2 bars= 28.75% to 22.5%
1 bar = 22.5% to 16.25%
0 bars = 16.25% to 0%

The new car warranty will only apply if you have lost 4 bars (leaving 8 illuminated).

[ If less than 9 bars during the warranty period, Nissan will repair or replace to bring the HV Battery up to at least 9 bars ]

 

[Jarichus]

I bought a gen1 2012 Leaf SV for with 83K for $1500 hoping the 30 mile range could be fixed by replacing a module or two. After I got a LeafSpy and proper OB2 I find the cells are even at 38% SOH. It had 696 quick charges and 3000 L1 & L2 charges on the battery. I found a one owner gen2 2016 Leaf S with 49K for $4500 here in the midwest with 85% SOH and a 75 mile range. The 2016 had 3000 only L1 & L2 charges. After buying the 2016 that I am happy with, I found and purchased a 11 bar 24K battery out of a wrecked 2016 Leaf. I now have two Leafs one to drive and one to fix! I am still learning the process of the generation swap!

 

[cornbinder89]

I bought a gen1 2012 Leaf SV for with 83K for $1500 hoping the 30 mile range could be fixed by replacing a module or two. After I got a LeafSpy and proper OB2 I find the cells are even at 38% SOH. It had 696 quick charges and 3000 L1 & L2 charges on the battery. I found a one owner gen2 2016 Leaf S with 49K for $4500 here in the midwest with 85% SOH and a 75 mile range. The 2016 had 3000 only L1 & L2 charges. After buying the 2016 that I am happy with, I found and purchased a 11 bar 24K battery out of a wrecked 2016 Leaf. I now have two Leafs one to drive and one to fix! I am still learning the process of the generation swap!

The number of L1/L2 charges can be 2x the actual amount. Leaf that is charged on the onboard charge timer, records 1 "charge" when the cord is plugged in and another when the actual charge takes place, this is straight from the Leafspy app instructions. If the Leaf is plugged in to charge immediately, it counts as one charge.

Level 3 is not subject to that so it shows actual charges.

 

[MikeinPA]

[still off topic] 6xxx or 30X0 GPU so you can upscale from something small? It’s what I do. (I got the same handle on overclock.net btw. You can post there if you want)

Still sitting on my desk. No build yet. I need the fastest single thread performance I can get for moderate cost. Graphics performance--somewhat important. 4 or monitors--that's me. CPU count--not that important to me.

 

[leaf201424kwhJapan]

Look for 2015 models then, the best of the 24 kWh battery packs according to legend; and my friends and family who still drive one to this day.

The 2014 late model has the new battery as well, and the heatpump! G pack.

 

[civicwithacord]

Hey all, first post here

As a brief introduction: I'm very mechanically inclined (one of my main cars is a Jaguar XJS V12), I'm also familiar with electrified vehicles (have owned maybe 5+ Prii and rebuild packs for them as a bit of a side business), and have done some minor work on non-Leaf EVs.

My daily driver is getting to the point where I think it's reaching EoL and I've been looking at options to replace it. The car at the top of my list was/is the Gen 1 Leaf 24kWh... The range is no problem for my normal driving, I have other cars for longer distances, home charging, etc... Plus with all the parts availability and community support it seems like a great option, and I can find them with relatively healthy batteries (9 or 10 bars) for under a few thousand dollars.

Unfortunately I have not been able to find or experience a Gen 1 Leaf yet so I have no idea if I'd like it or find it comfortable.

While contemplating this, I decided to look at the Gen 2 market since i qualify for the used EV incentive, and found that you can get a Gen 2 for a very reasonable price. You can also get a Bolt for a similar price as well.... However, this past weekend, I decided to go test drive a 2020 SV Plus locally, and I came away very impressed. It looks better than the Bolt, it's more comfortable, had more space, interior was laid out more logically and just felt better made. Only thing I didn't like was the Torque limit below ~35mph. And, although most would consider this a downside, the air cooled battery and old tech just made everything seem so simple... Like I feel that if the battery developed an isolation issue or something, I have confidence that I could pull it out and service it in my driveway if need be, not to mention the lack of... anything going on in the engine bay.

Here's where my Gen 2 question is: How's the degradation curve on the 62kWh packs looking? I found an SL Plus with the Cold Weather Pkg (I think), all the options I'd want, and a super affordable price for sale ~6 hours north of me.... buuuut it's high mileage, and with it being so far away, I can't exactly hook up Leaf Spy to it to see how many DC charges it's had, SoH, etc. I emailed the dealer asking for a picture of the battery capacity in the gauge cluster, but from what I understand, the Gen 2 won't drop a bar on that gauge until something ridiculous like 82.5% capacity correct? Also, being a Cold Weather Pkg car presumably (2019 SL+ w/ heated seats), it has a heat pump correct? What's been the reliability on the heat pump? How's the efficiency/range with vs without it?

A cheap Gen 1 would do all my driving needs perfectly fine.... But the more modern-ness of the Gen 2, with the vastly better range, newer battery, etc... I have considered just shelling out the money for it, but it would have to do more than the 30mi/day of a Gen 1 to make the added cost worth it to me.

I have a gen 1 with a 62 kWh in it. I’m selling the battery with the car for price of the battery on Facebook marketplace in southern oregon. Stats on LEAFSpy will prove it’s solid. Best to you whatever you decide.