Is the Leaf’s L2 Charger Good Enough?

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Sammicsee

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Joined
Oct 25, 2024
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Hi,
Just bought a used 2018 Leaf for my wife, and it came with the factory Level 2 charger. So I’m wondering if anyone here has experience with this charger. The manual claims it can dish out a solid 30 amps continuously when plugged into a 240V outlet. I’m tempted to stick with this instead of dropping cash on a Wallbox or something. Is this charger any good, or do you have any other suggestions?

Tnx.
 
Yes, I’m using it right now, and it’s awesome! I’m not about to shell out extra cash on a hardwired charger when I've got my sweet 50 amp line in the garage. Keeps everything nice and cozy, away from the weather.

Tbh a wallbox or hardwired charger feels like overkill unless you really need that outdoor install or want Wifi to control things. Me? I’m good with the timer features on my Leaf.
 
It is fine when connected to a 50 amp circuit if you have the one that the factory provides. It can do exactly what the aftermarket "Wallbox" can do, they both will charge at the same rate, so no advantage in buying another to stick on your wall, unless you want to keep the original with the vehicle for charging away from home.
 
4.5 years of use....works great.


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Click For Full-Size Image.
 
That’s great to hear! I definitely appreciate all your feedback. The factory charger seems to be doing a solid job so far, which is awesome. Thanks folks!
 
Agree. No need to swap out unless you find some other need it doesn't meet. For example, if you want more flexibility regarding charge rate, say, in a power out situation when you're running off of backup power or something. Edge cases for most of us.

You get 2 charge rates, that's it. There's the 120v adapter and the 240v option. Definitely recommend the 240v option on a 50amp breaker.

Yes, a 40amp breaker would do in many areas (code varies), but 50 gives you more headroom should you buy a different car with a stronger charger in the future. I believe there's a national 120% rule - the breaker should be oversized by 20% for loads that are not intermittent. Others here know more than I on these details.
 
Hi,
Just bought a used 2018 Leaf for my wife, and it came with the factory Level 2 charger. So I’m wondering if anyone here has experience with this charger. The manual claims it can dish out a solid 30 amps continuously when plugged into a 240V outlet. I’m tempted to stick with this instead of dropping cash on a Wallbox or something. Is this charger any good, or do you have any other suggestions?

Tnx.
Can confirm the Nissan charger is sufficient.
It will charge ~6.6KW @ 240V

(Charge Rate) / (Battery Capacity) * 100% =
(Capacity Percentage / Hour)

For example:

6.6KW / 62KWH * 100% = 10.6%/hr

Caveats: National Electrical Code (NEC) requires GFCI protection for any EV charging equipment.

This means you'll have to install a GFCI breaker to power a dedicated outlet for this charger.

Additionally, there have been reports of the NEMA 14-50R (what you'll need for the Nissan charger) outlets failing.

I'd recommend looking into an industrial-grade outlet. (Hubbell, Bryant) This will probably set you back $50-100.

The $15 Leviton or Utilitech 14-50R you see at Lowe's are for electric stoves. They are meant to be plugged-in continuously and aren't really designed for max-current draw for 4+ hours.
 
Yes, I’m using it right now, and it’s awesome! I’m not about to shell out extra cash on a hardwired charger when I've got my sweet 50 amp line in the garage. Keeps everything nice and cozy, away from the weather.

Tbh a wallbox or hardwired charger feels like overkill unless you really need that outdoor install or want Wifi to control things. Me? I’m good with the timer features on my Leaf.
Just FYI:
The National Electrical Code now requires GFCI protection for EV charging.
The Nissan charger does not provide this.
In order to be code-compliant, I'd recommend installing a GFCI breaker.
 
I believe there's a national 120% rule - the breaker should be oversized by 20% for loads that are not intermittent. Others here know more than I on these details.
It's a national rule; The National Electrical Code (NEC) 80% rule states that electrical circuits should not be continuously loaded to more than 80% of their maximum rated capacity. This rule applies to continuous loads, which are defined as three hours or more.
Therefore, a 30 amp breaker and proper wiring are rated at 24 amps, a 40 amp breaker and proper wiring are rated for 32 amps and a 50 amp breaker and proper wiring are rated at 40 amps.
 
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It's a national rule; The National Electrical Code (NEC) 80% rule states that electrical circuits should not be continuously loaded to more than 80% of their maximum rated capacity. This rule applies to continuous loads, which are defined as three hours or more.
Therefore, a 30 amp breaker and proper wiring are rated at 24 amps, a 40 amp breaker and proper wiring are rated for 32 amps and a 50 amp breaker and proper wiring are rated at 40 amps.
The 80% rule will work, but that's not what the NEC says in their code book. The code book says the breaker should be no less than 125% of the maximum load of the equipment.

Note the math works out whether you use the 80% rule or the 125% rule the NEC uses. Nit-picky I know, but the 125% rule is what the NEC uses.

Also, not every jurisdiction follows the latest NEC, and some may not follow it at all or may modify it.
 
Note the math works out whether you use the 80% rule or the 125% rule the NEC uses. Nit-picky I know, but the 125% rule is what the NEC uses.
This is getting into the difference or lack thereof, like "Neutral" or "Grounded conductor".
The only time it will make a difference would not apply in the residential setting (corner grounded three phase delta).
80% is easy to understand, and is clear, prevents overloading of the cabling from a mis reading of the code.
NEC uses language that is not always clear to the non-initiated.
 
Just FYI:
The National Electrical Code now requires GFCI protection for EV charging.
The Nissan charger does not provide this.
In order to be code-compliant, I'd recommend installing a GFCI breaker.
Outlets where a EVSE will be used (garage, outside etc) have needed to be on a GFI for some time now. Hardwire installation, the EVSE should have the GFI built in.
Basically anything that plugs in, the outlet needs to be GFI protected in damp locations. The EVSE if hardwired (in conduit) doesn't need a GFI before it, but does need a GFI inside.
A plug in EVSE wouldn't be part of a electrical inspection any more than they would inspect your electric drill.
The outlet or lack there of determines where the GFI needs to be placed.
All my circuits in my garage sub panel except the "Lighting" circuit have GFI breakers. the lighting circuit doesn't have any outlets on it, hard wired LED fixtures.
A little common sense goes a long way.
 
Is this charger any good, or do you have any other suggestions?
It's a great charging device (EVSE).
I used my Nissan EVSE with the bracket as a permanent wall-mounted device at 240V in my garage for 2 years. I was commuting 90 miles round trip per weekday during that time, so I used the EVSE a lot. I found that I never really needed a portable device or 120V supply, and the EVSE provided the right amount of power. I ended up buying an Aerovironment (AV) EVSE afterwards when they were on sale for 50% off due to a company buyout. I ended up using the AV EVSE as my permanent wall-mounted device and now carry the Nissan EVSE as a portable (backup) device in my car.
 
Common for new devices to have a GFI built in, but the NEC requires either GFI outlet or breaker on feed for garage (damp locations). The GFI in the device will not protect the up-stream supply cord and plug.
If your Grizzl-e is hard wired, then it takes care of the requirement.
 
Outlets where a EVSE will be used (garage, outside etc) have needed to be on a GFI for some time now. Hardwire installation, the EVSE should have the GFI built in.
Basically anything that plugs in, the outlet needs to be GFI protected in damp locations. The EVSE if hardwired (in conduit) doesn't need a GFI before it, but does need a GFI inside.
A plug in EVSE wouldn't be part of a electrical inspection any more than they would inspect your electric drill.
The outlet or lack there of determines where the GFI needs to be placed.
All my circuits in my garage sub panel except the "Lighting" circuit have GFI breakers. the lighting circuit doesn't have any outlets on it, hard wired LED fixtures.
A little common sense goes a long way.
Hey it's only "common sense" if it's common knowledge, right?

That phrase is rarely used to instruct, only to humiliate.

If your garage has never come close to flooding, you might not think about that.
 
Hey it's only "common sense" if it's common knowledge, right?

That phrase is rarely used to instruct, only to humiliate.

If your garage has never come close to flooding, you might not think about that.
Not my intent to humiliate.
I just meant if you think about the reason then placement it makes sense. The rules are not made for no reason. I will admit they can go overboard.
GFI's are used to protect human life, and therefore are required where moisture and electricity might come in contact with human skin.
Plugs and receptacles are prime spots where that may happen. Especially when garages aren't likely to be climate controlled.
Often "codes" come about because someone died or was seriously hurt.
 
This is getting into the difference or lack thereof, like "Neutral" or "Grounded conductor".
The only time it will make a difference would not apply in the residential setting (corner grounded three phase delta).
80% is easy to understand, and is clear, prevents overloading of the cabling from a mis reading of the code.
NEC uses language that is not always clear to the non-initiated.
Well if you can't understand what the NEC says or calculate using a simple percentage, maybe you shouldn't be installing electrical wire.
 
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