Is there anything I can do to fix this besides an entire battery replacement?!

[Angryleaf]

Some ******* scammed me on this 2013 Leaf.

The car is in excellent shape other than this one ******* module/cell.

Could I just get the module/cell replaced?

What are my options here???

The ******* told me it gets 50+ miles on a charge. It gets half that rn. Doesn’t charge up more than about 10 kWh.

Battery health shows 10/12 on the dash.

56k miles on the car.

Paid $3,500 for this thing.

I’m taking them to small claims since they claimed in the ad it was perfect battery and gets double the mileage on the pack it actually gets. But I doubt I’ll ever see the money even if I win knowing this POS.

Someone mentioned in the Reddit sub they successfully got the module/cell swapped/repaired for under a grand. I dunno if that’s an option here.

 

[nlspace]

The module containing cell 77 could be swapped out. The pack would have to be dropped out, then the housing seal cut to open the cover, find the bad module and replace, reassemble. It is all covered in the Factory Service Manual, and there are likely some threads here from folks who have done this.

Looks like the 12V battery needs some attention also--doesn't appear to be fully charged.

 

[MikeinPA]

Cell pair #77 is in module #38 which is one of the easiest to get to. Its right under the passenger seat near the top of a stack. https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/weak-cell-44-in-2013-leaf-where-in-pack.30704/post-575035 However, getting a replacement module is a total pita. Everything out there on ebay etc is 70% or less.

I replaced some modules in my 2013 with new old stock purchased from Nissan becasue I was unable to find usable used ones. I payed $370 for each module--but now they are more expensive. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-battery-sub-assy-main-b~295b9-3nf8a.html This has worked out well. With 76% SOH, and 5.5 miles/kwh, we still have a solid 70 miles range of these 2013s before getting down to 10% SOC--so its working for us and I plan on getting several more years out of these marvels.

I know how you feel. My Leaf still had 2 years left on the battery warranty but Nissan would not fix it. My repair needed the rear stack to come out which was a lot of work. Replacing module #38 should be much easier if you can find a garage that works on these--and find a module with greater than 76% SOH.

 

[nlspace]

Maybe you could sell it back to them and get a total refund, or show them the low driving range and bad cell data, and ask for a $500 refund as a measure of good will and not meant to deceive ?

 

[Angryleaf]

Maybe you could sell it back to them and get a total refund, or show them the low driving range and bad cell data, and ask for a $500 refund as a measure of good will and not meant to deceive ?

They won’t even respond to me. They ignore all texts and calls. And I see they have read the texts. Legit trash human.

 

[Angryleaf]

The module containing cell 77 could be swapped out. The pack would have to be dropped out, then the housing seal cut to open the cover, find the bad module and replace, reassemble. It is all covered in the Factory Service Manual, and there are likely some threads here from folks who have done this.

Looks like the 12V battery needs some attention also--doesn't appear to be fully charged.

I took it to Autozone and they tested it and said it was 99% capacity. But I def thought there was an issue with it. Sometimes I get the little red battery light.

Could this be having an effect on the EV battery pack?

 

[nlspace]

What's the age of the 12V batttery? An old, weak or worn out battery can cause a multitude of problems and faults in an EV. The EV 12V has a different duty cycle and fails in a different manner than for ICE cars.

It would not necessarily cause a cell to be degraded or defective such as you have, but it could prevent the car from starting, driving, or charging.

So get it charged up and make sure it is good and strong to eliminate that as another issue.

 

[cornbinder89]

I took it to Autozone and they tested it and said it was 99% capacity. But I def thought there was an issue with it. Sometimes I get the little red battery light.

Could this be having an effect on the EV battery pack?

Unlikely the 12 volt is the root cause. You've had it charged and checked and it passed, end of story. The red battery light is more concerning.
Once again, it comes down to DTC's, and you already know you have a traction battery with a weak module. Since you seam to have Leafspy, post the trouble codes.

 

[Stanton]

I have been following this thread but reluctant to comment based on the attitude of the OP (the user name says it all)...but this is a "cut and dried" case to me.
You have a weak/bad cell that is affecting the battery pack...and it will only get worse over time. It has nothing to do with the 12v battery; it will likely not generate any DTCs (at least in the short term). It can be fixed (module replaced), but requires a competent EV shop and/or expertise (I know, because I have replaced a bad module in my 40 kWh pack).
This has been said many times on this forum, but since you are "new", I'll say it again: never buy a used Leaf without a LeafSpy reading--including a cell-pair graph.

 

[nlspace]

If you want to see a DTC, then Drive it to reduce the pack energy until the turtle comes on--that will likely set a DTC which will indicate a low cell #77

 

[Angryleaf]

I have been following this thread but reluctant to comment based on the attitude of the OP (the user name says it all)...but this is a "cut and dried" case to me.
You have a weak/bad cell that is affecting the battery pack...and it will only get worse over time. It has nothing to do with the 12v battery; it will likely not generate any DTCs (at least in the short term). It can be fixed (module replaced), but requires a competent EV shop and/or expertise (I know, because I have replaced a bad module in my 40 kWh pack).
This has been said many times on this forum, but since you are "new", I'll say it again: never buy a used Leaf without a LeafSpy reading--including a cell-pair graph.

I’m sorry, but what issue do you have with my “attitude?”

 

[Angryleaf]

What's the age of the 12V batttery? An old, weak or worn out battery can cause a multitude of problems and faults in an EV. The EV 12V has a different duty cycle and fails in a different manner than for ICE cars.

It would not necessarily cause a cell to be degraded or defective such as you have, but it could prevent the car from starting, driving, or charging.

So get it charged up and make sure it is good and strong to eliminate that as another issue.

Early 2021 mfg date.

Also the battery was checked immediately after turning off the car so I’m wondering if it’s discharging fast and would show differently after more time left to “cool down.”

 

[EVPowers]

So in the LA area you might be able to get a shop to do it, but it'll likely be more than $1,000. Maybe $1,500-$2,000?

How many miles range do you need for your daily commute?

Given the Statenof Health, this would be riiiiggght at the edge of 50 miles. And that would be on flat ground, going under 55 mph, no heat/ac, with low rolling resistant tires. Plus it'd be a nail-biter since you'd have to start at 100% and go all the way down to 0%.

If you only need, say, 15 miles range, this might be fine once fixed.

And as far as using, of the seller was careful (weasely) about his ad and said it charges to 50 miles, with proof on the Guess-o-meter, then it may be hard to refute. Unfortunately, the Guess-o-meter is often wildly optimistic and needs to be taken with a grain of salt.

 

[MikeinPA]

And as far as using, of the seller was careful (weasely) about his ad and said it charges to 50 miles, with proof on the Guess-o-meter, then it may be hard to refute. Unfortunately, the Guess-o-meter is often wildly optimistic and needs to be taken with a grain of salt.

Even with a bad cell the guess o meter will project range based on SOH when fully charged. As the car travels, and the bad cell starts to drop in voltage, the guess o meter starts paying attention to the lowest cell and the projected range plummets. My observations--YMMV.

 

[gmcjetpilot]

Why are not more people making battery modules and packs for LEAF's. China maybe. I think a while back I saw some complete aftermarket or grey market battery packs from Asia.

 

[MikeinPA]

Why are not more people making battery modules and packs for LEAF's. China maybe. I think a while back I saw some complete aftermarket or grey market battery packs from Asia.

Probably any company that could, wont because of potential liabilities. The aftermarket stuff coming out of Asia is in my observation garage engineering and too dangerous for consumer use.

 

[EVPowers]

There is too much disparity between what it costs to make/install a replacement battery and what consumers are willing to pay for a replacement battery.

People don't have much interest in spending $8,000, $10,000, $12,000+

They want to spend $4,000-$6,000. (And even at this price, some folks will say that is too high.)

But, currently there is no way to supply brand New 40-60kWh Leaf packs at that price and still leave a profit margin for the manufacturer or installer.

 

[Jerther]

Why are not more people making battery modules and packs for LEAF's

Also this https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/muxsan-went-bankrupt.36288/

Looks like the aftermarket for traction batteries is not that simple and/or easy.

 

[yogajim]

Yes, this is particularly frustrating as when I bought my leaf the dealer said replacement batteries would be about $5,000. They're nowhere near that.

Perhaps when solid state batteries come out there will be a safe and cost-effective and profitable replacement. I just have to get my 2015, 70,000 mi, leaf to last another 3 to 4 years? So far I've only lost one bar so the prognosis may be good.

 

[Oostenrijker]

If you want to see a DTC, then Drive it to reduce the pack energy until the turtle comes on--that will likely set a DTC which will indicate a low cell #77

It might never happen: my previous Leaf had a fried battery pack, went into Turtle Mode as well a few times. I tried to trigger an DTC on the Autobahn, but the only thing I achieved was recording loss of power.

No even once a DTC, even though it was obvious my battery pack of my previous Leaf was having multiple weak cells.