Disconnect the 12 volt and charge it, then test it. It had enough "juice" to run the 4 ways for 3 hrs or so, and the fronts at least are incandescent.
That will do 3 things:
1) you'll know the condition of the battery
2) it will force clear any codes stored (since you can't retrieve them, there is nothing lost by erasing them)
3) it will eliminate the 12 volt as a source of the current problem.
EV's in general and the Leaf in particular are NOT OBDII compliant. This means that many scanners designed for ICE vehicles can't read anything from the diagnostic plug.
You need a scanner that is made for EV's or for the Leaf in particular, LeafSpy is what most here use. Some high end commercial scanners can read the Leaf and some lower cost can read some but not as much as Leafspy.
All this cost you under $50 for Leafspy and a dongle if you have a smart phone, less than 1/2 the cost of throwing a new 12 volt which may or may not be needed.
When you plug in you should see the blue lights flash, then when it starts charging, the one on the right will flash then go steady and the next one will flash etc until the two are steady and the last one is flashing.
If just the left one is flashing that is indicating it is charging the 12 volt.
You didn't tell use the year and trim code of the Leaf you have and that makes it hard.
On my 2015 and I think most from at least 2013, have 4 buttons in a row on the dash to the left of the steering wheel.
they are from left to right
1) steering wheel heat
2) timer off/override
3) charge cord lock. a three position switch center off, auto and locked
4) the right most is the charge door open button.
open the charge door and press the timer override, if the timer is set you should get one blue light on the dash for about 5-10 min, during which it will charge if you plug in the cord, if you do not, it will revert back to timer and will not charge.
There are more things that could be a problem, or could need looking into, but this is enough to start.