Nissan Leaf 2015 will not charge L1/L2

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jopom2

New member
Joined
Jul 8, 2024
Messages
4
Location
Canada
Hello,

I own this Leaf since 2018, recently it would not charge L1orL2 at home (my other EVs do). 1-2 min, then fault or sometimes it wouldn't charge at all. DC Chademo still charge.

Attempted / Checked so far,

1- tried with different 12V (this one almost new), remained the same
2- Leafspy PRO below, (by the way, what is the > symbol for?)
3- checked fuses 3, 33, 57, 76 so far but will check all of them
4- without the 12V and after removing the service plug, checked fuses (3) under the PDM cover, photo below

Any advice on what should be verified or replaced before visiting a Leaf doctor?

Screenshot_20240707_150710_LeafSpy Pro.jpg
20240708_181510.jpg
 
The HV Interlock error will prevent charging or driving--maybe it is an old code stored previously and never cleared. Not sure if that is the meaning of > .

The 3 P-codes for the PDM are the reason for no AC charging.
 
Hello, found some probable cause of failure a relay.
Well done. And low and behold, it's the pre-charge relay! Looks a bit different to the iMiEV equivalent, but still very recognizable.

One of the pre-charge resistors is looking sus, per the questioned circle in your third photo. Though if its value is OK, then it doesn't need replacing. Those resistors have a tough life, suffering tens or hundreds of times their continuous power rating for a fraction of a second. Be aware that at least one of these may be the type that has a thermal fuse built-in. The iMiEV equivalents have one with a fuse, and one without.

It looks to me that one of the relay contacts was not soldered properly. It only sees current for a fraction of a second every time the contactors come on (going to ready mode, starting a charge, recharging the 12 V battery when parked). So I'm guessing that it's taken a while for the high resistance to cause a problem. If my guess is correct, that bad solder joint would have been there from new.

You'll obviously need to replace the relay, but also do some rework of the PCB. I would just use some stout (1.0 mm² minimum) wire from the relay contact to an area of that track that's not damaged. Clear away any soot; it's likely conductive, especially at pack voltage.

Any idea what is the white ceramic ?
Ceramic? Isn't it fairly soft? It should be silicone compound used to stop vehicle vibrations from loosening large through-hole parts over time. It does tend to discolor with heat; it's handy that way. You can replace it with fresh silicone if needed. Always use neutral cure types (not acid cure), since the acid is conductive.
 
i think the "white ceramic" are the pre-charge resistors on the AC Input section. One is just a resistor and the other is a resistor with a thermal fuse--you can see the char mark where the resistor got hot, and is the ceramic cracked?

This schematic shows the AC input section for the meiv, yours will be similar if you wanted to trace it out.
file.php

The AC is then fed into the black rectifier bridge shown in your photo.

The early laef used a similar schema,
laef blown cap OBC schema.png


Good catch to find the culprit.
 
Last edited:
Well done. And low and behold, it's the pre-charge relay! Looks a bit different to the iMiEV equivalent, but still very recognizable.

One of the pre-charge resistors is looking sus, per the questioned circle in your third photo. Though if its value is OK, then it doesn't need replacing. Those resistors have a tough life, suffering tens or hundreds of times their continuous power rating for a fraction of a second. Be aware that at least one of these may be the type that has a thermal fuse built-in. The iMiEV equivalents have one with a fuse, and one without.

It looks to me that one of the relay contacts was not soldered properly. It only sees current for a fraction of a second every time the contactors come on (going to ready mode, starting a charge, recharging the 12 V battery when parked). So I'm guessing that it's taken a while for the high resistance to cause a problem. If my guess is correct, that bad solder joint would have been there from new.

You'll obviously need to replace the relay, but also do some rework of the PCB. I would just use some stout (1.0 mm² minimum) wire from the relay contact to an area of that track that's not damaged. Clear away any soot; it's likely conductive, especially at pack voltage.


Ceramic? Isn't it fairly soft? It should be silicone compound used to stop vehicle vibrations from loosening large through-hole parts over time. It does tend to discolor with heat; it's handy that way. You can replace it with fresh silicone if needed. Always use neutral cure types (not acid cure), since the acid is conductive.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, wait I meant as white ceramic is the pre-charge resistor. Yes the beige compound is soft, silicone should do the job to secure after the repair, I will watch for a non-acidic like mentionned.
 
i think the "white ceramic" are the pre-charge resistors on the AC Input section. One is just a resistor and the other is a resistor with a thermal fuse--you can see the char mark where the resistor got hot, and is the ceramic cracked?

This schematic shows the AC input section for the meiv, yours will be similar if you wanted to trace it out.
file.php

The AC is then fed into the black rectifier bridge shown in your photo.

Good catch to find the culprit.
Thanks again, I will forward the info to the electronician working on it, I did not notice a crack in the ceramic but I will look again, thanks
 
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