Nissan Leaf radiator leak

[AJSC]

Hi
My 2018 Nissan Leaf 40kWh has developed a small radiator leak which I am periodically topping up with water. Am I able to use a radiator seal product for it, please (or might this cause damage to the battery)? If so, any recommendations for good radiator sealants?
Thank you

 

[woeful]

Leaf coolant notoriously does not reach the battery, so you can't damage that. Just the motor and power electronics stack above it are cooled. I don't know whether the emergency seal stuff might damage those: someone else will have to answer this!

 

[RNeil]

If the radiator is leaking, I think you should replace the radiator. Make sure that it is not leaking from a hose or other component.

 

[nlspace]

Can you see where it is leaking?

How fast is the leak (how much do you have to add over how many days)?

If you live in a cold place then add coolant rather than water so it doesn't freeze and break something.

i have had good success using Bar's and K-Seal sealers in ICE car radiators and head gaskets. The Barr's was rabbit terd pellets that dissolve in hot coolant, then travel thru the system and fill in the radiator leak with clay. The K-Seal has ceramic fibers and copper flakes that fill in tiny gasket leaks when it dries.

The coolant flows thru the OBC, DCDC, Inverter and Motor, with lots of electronics in the plenums.

If it were my car, i would try the K-Seal, i think it works better with less mess. Maybe use just 1/4 of whole bottle and see if it helps, then add another 1/4 if needed to stop the leak, etc.

 

[Learjet]

I had a Nissan Titan once start leaking at the plastic end cap on the radiator. I carefully tapped down the little crimping fingers on the end cap with a flat head screw drive and hammer. That tighten the end cap against the gasket and it never leaked again. Drove it for several years after this procedure. Don't know if that is an option here?

 

[Zero Emissions]

Hi
My 2018 Nissan Leaf 40kWh has developed a small radiator leak which I am periodically topping up with water. Am I able to use a radiator seal product for it, please (or might this cause damage to the battery)? If so, any recommendations for good radiator sealants?
Thank you

NEVER, EVER, under any circumstances use stop leak in any vehicle ICE or EV or even your wheelbarrow! If you understand how it works you would fully understand why you DON"T want to use it.It will void any warranty from all manufactures! Remember the metals in your cooling system are a clean, clear Aluminum and some (not all) stop leaks use lots of Iron particles which Aluminum and Iron do not like each other hence the use of a ceramic or fiber gasket between them with zero Iron particles floating around. iI your a DIY person then go to Harbor freight fools..., I mean tools and purchase the correct radiator pressure checker make sure it has the correct cap adapter for your vehicle, pump it up to 8 to 15lbs. and look for the leak! It will show up for sure! Then fix the leak correctly no HACK repair job! Why ruin your vehicle with expensive repairs caused by cheap, poorly executed fixes, it makes Zero sense! Also only use Blue coolant made from Nissan... Not green prestone or anybody else's brand in your LEAF Otherwise again you will ruin your cooling system and eventually turn your LEAF an ugly brown after which it will fall off the tree!

 

[nlspace]

Bar's also makes an Aluminum engine formulation which contains cellulose and titanium dioxide as the binding agents, probably better than the clay pellets.

If you have a leak that you can't or won't be able to see even with a pressure test, seems to me better to stop the leak before is gets too deep in the bottom of the PDM or inverter and shorts something out. It may not be permanent fix, but could buy you some time to figure out the situation and keep it from getting worse while you shop around for parts.

 

[Zero Emissions]

Bar's also makes an Aluminum engine formulation which contains cellulose and titanium dioxide as the binding agents, probably better than the clay pellets.

If you have a leak that you can't or won't be able to see even with a pressure test, seems to me better to stop the leak before is gets too deep in the bottom of the PDM or inverter and shorts something out. It may not be permanent fix, but could buy you some time to figure out the situation and keep it from getting worse while you shop around for parts.

I've worked on many ICE engines and replaced the heads and a few blocks because of the stop leak clogging the entire cooling system that was never engineered for snake oil to be used to fix any mechanical failure. Putting stop leak in any motor voids every warranty for good reason! It is like putting a bandaid on cancer it may make you feel a little better but it certainly won't cure cancer right! Ask any engineer or Master tech at any dealership and they will all say never, ever, use fluids to fix mechanical failures it flat out wont work and can compound the issues. Just saying...Now about that blinker fluid have you replaced your blinker fluid along with the muffler bearings you can get at least a bajillian more miles out your vehicle if you use the lawn fertilizer on the third tuesday of last month past.. Trust me I slept at a holiday inn last night.

 

[nlspace]

i've never been a fan of using pharmasweticals or chemicals to solve mechanical problems, but have changed my views over time. Desperate times call for drastic measures with older cars out of warranty.

Years ago i was a pious tool purist and wouldn't own a pair of vise grips or even have one in my toolbox. People would use them as universal wrenches and hammers for everything--i thought that was disgusting. But now after numerous broken bolt extractions and other non-standard repair situations i have changed my tune and appreciate the utility of all sorts of tools and techniques and drugs and chemicals to solve problems...

 

[cornbinder89]

I am in the NO stop leak camp.
This is especially true for the Leaf. Look at it this way, the operating temperature of the Leaf cooling system is far lower than that of a ICE vehicle. Strike one against them even working in the Leaf. Heat transfer both from the electronics to the coolant and from the coolant to the air requires good contact between the mediums. A layer of stop-leak will slow that transfer. Strike 2. The temp difference between the cooled and the ultimate cooling medium is much lower on the Leaf than an ICE car, meaning it needs to be not degraded to move the heat out of the critical parts. Strike 3
In short, I think it is far more likely to do damage then good, even if it stops the leak.

 

[nlspace]

It does get hot inside the waffle plate™ OBC (early model cars).



The PDM versions likely get hot too, especially the 6 kW models.

Obviously a "proper" repair involves finding the leak and replacing the component. But this seems to be a hidden leak and not visible without major dismantling.

The OP asked about using a leak sealer, so i'm in favor of using K-Seal head gasket sealer with the ceramic and copper flakes. i've had good success with it in an ICE car. The benefit if it works far exceeds the risk of continued leaking to me.

 

[RYoungberg]

i've never been a fan of using pharmasweticals or chemicals to solve mechanical problems, but have changed my views over time. Desperate times call for drastic measures with older cars out of warranty.

Years ago i was a pious tool purist and wouldn't own a pair of vise grips or even have one in my toolbox. People would use them as universal wrenches and hammers for everything--i thought that was disgusting. But now after numerous broken bolt extractions and other non-standard repair situations i have changed my tune and appreciate the utility of all sorts of tools and techniques and drugs and chemicals to solve problems...

I have 4 different Vice grips in tool box of various types and sizes, and a couple Crescent wrenchs too. Just about all I ever use!

 

[cornbinder89]

It does get hot inside the waffle plate™ OBC (early model cars).



The PDM versions likely get hot too, especially the 6 kW models.

Obviously a "proper" repair involves finding the leak and replacing the component. But this seems to be a hidden leak and not visible without major dismantling.

The OP asked about using a leak sealer, so i'm in favor of using K-Seal head gasket sealer with the ceramic and copper flakes. i've had good success with it in an ICE car. The benefit if it works far exceeds the risk of continued leaking to me.

Doesn't get hot enough for Nissan to use it as a heat source for the cabin. AFAIK no thermostat either. Connections and cables can get hotter than components on a board, and still function.
Not my car, not my choice, not my consequences. I wouldn't use any type of stop-leak.

 

[AJSC]

Thank you all very much for your thoughts.
Nissan were estimating £900 to replace the radiator, Cleevely Motors are estimating ~£350, so I've decided to book it in there to replace the radiator.

 

[nlspace]

Rock Auto has Denso radiator for $137.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7401800&cc=3362352&pt=2172&jsn=13