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Marshallh

New member
Joined
Mar 12, 2025
Messages
4
Location
North Carolina
I bought this car as a project. It didn’t have a key. I had one made now it powers up but I have the EV warning light. I have pulled up LeafSpy and it says out of 96 cells. There is one bad one that is at .4 V and on the dash it has 0 miles has multiple other exclamation mark Lights and I cannot get it to take a charge. I have a brand new J 1772 charger that doesn’t charge it and also took it to the dealership and use their fast charge and it had an error if there is a bad cell and it has 0 miles is it locked out of getting a charge Until I replace that cell
 

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Yes, or at least until you can bring that cell voltage above the threshold. That is what is preventing it from charging.
With the other cells being so even, I wonder if the sensing wire to the BMS is off or got cut somehow to that cell?
If I had the means, I would drop the battery and have a look.
 
Being a 24kwh packs it's not going to be that hard to find a replacement cell. I'd drop it out of the car, check the cell directly and replace it with a cell in similar condition.
 
Yes, or at least until you can bring that cell voltage above the threshold. That is what is preventing it from charging.
With the other cells being so even, I wonder if the sensing wire to the BMS is off or got cut somehow to that cell?
If I had the means, I would drop the battery and have a look.
What is the threshold level
 
What is the threshold level
If the cell is at 0.4 volts, it is irreversibly damaged--do not attempt to charge. Actually, there are two cells in parallel that are showing 0.4 together. If one of the cells leaked or otherwise failed, it will pull the other one down with it. Cell 11 is in module 6 in the rear stack. https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/weak-cell-44-in-2013-leaf-where-in-pack.30704/post-575035 . When you do drop the pack, you cancheck the voltage directly on that module.

Cutting the sealant on the shell--I ended up using a narrow putty-knife-like thing (scraper?) with a reinforced end for hammering on. Sharpen the tool, and drive it around the seam with a hammer, letting it split the sealant and float between the flanges. Drive it in parallel with the seam--not perpendicular to it Went very fast,

If you do open it up, let us know what you find.
 
I second that. I just split my pack earlier this week. It was near impossible till I got the right technique. I used a knife blade, entered in at an angle till it stopped on the interior lip and then levered it out parallel to the pack and through the bead. I inch-wormed my way around till I could start to lift the lid up just a bit to lessen the friction on the blade. As soon as I had a little clearance on the blade from the lid coming up and off the knife, it went fast.

Yes, #11 is in module 6 in the back. You cannot remove one module from the rear stack without removing the whole stack. It weighs north of 300lbs. There are lift points for hooks on the four corners. I think an engine lift would be the best option but four stout men, some chain and two 3/4" black steel pipes might do as well if no lift is available.

I ordered my replacement cells from GreenTecAuto. All they have for Gen2 24kWh packs are 39 Ah cells. That's about 60% capacity. What was delivered was 40 Ah packs though.

Don't tell them that you're putting it back into a Leaf. They discourage that in order to drive sales of whole pack swaps. They have facilities peppered around the US. I was lucky and got my 14 cells delivered to their facility in Cleveland for free so I didn't have to pay shipping.

The job is tedious and will be the most demanding game of 'operation' you've ever played. You don't get one free mistake on this job. Insulated tools, proper gloves and, in my case, good rest. I put several cells in backwards late in the job on Tuesday after spending the day getting the pack out, down and split. I was tired and should have stopped. A few backwards cells cooked the LBC (Battery Management System) and am now waiting for one to arrive from eBay.

Best of luck and let us know how it goes.
 
If the cell is at 0.4 volts, it is irreversibly damaged--do not attempt to charge. Actually, there are two cells in parallel that are showing 0.4 together. If one of the cells leaked or otherwise failed, it will pull the other one down with it. Cell 11 is in module 6 in the rear stack. https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/weak-cell-44-in-2013-leaf-where-in-pack.30704/post-575035 . When you do drop the pack, you cancheck the voltage directly on that module.

Cutting the sealant on the shell--I ended up using a narrow putty-knife-like thing (scraper?) with a reinforced end for hammering on. Sharpen the tool, and drive it around the seam with a hammer, letting it split the sealant and float between the flanges. Drive it in parallel with the seam--not perpendicular to it Went very fast,

If you do open it up, let us know what you find.
"narrow putty-knife-like thing (scraper?)"

Do you mean a 5 in 1 tool?
 
This shape, and thinner than a five in one. Before this, I tried the windshield removal tool described in the manual--no go, the sealant is too tough for that. Then I tried a utility knife--too tough. Others have reported using one of those oscillating multi tools with a saw blade install. Anyway, once I got the tool sharpened, and at the right angle, it went around with minimal effort, tap tap tap.

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