Quick and easy trailer wiring without hole in firewall for occasional use

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Jerther

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 26, 2023
Messages
264
Location
Quebec, Canada
The needed 12v supply wire from the battery to the back of the car held me back a long time from installing a trailer wiring harness because it's a lot of work and I need this less than once a year, so I hope my idea helps some of you who are in the same situation. So here's what I did.

- Get this kit. I got mine from Amazon: https://www.curtmfg.com/part/56227
- Get access to the rear left and right signal lights. The included instructions are quite helpful and it's quite easy.
- Connect the left and right harnesses as per the instructions.
- Connect the ground lead to the chassis using the self-drilling metal screw.
- Now for the 12v lead, buy a 25 foot 12v accessory (cigarette lighter socket) extensions. I bought this one https://a.co/d/78Tfck9 but I recommend finding one with a 10A fuse included. 25 feet is a bit much, but better too long that too short.
- Cut the extension cord near its socket so you're left with the plug, and solder/crimp its positive wire to the 12v lead of the wiring harness. Leave the negative wire of the extension, but make sure it's safely isolated. I used solder and a shrink tube.
- Reassemble the plastic trims and store all the cables inside the compartment originally used for the tire pump, nice and tidy.

And that's it. No need for the long wire, the fuse socket and the fuse included in the kit. When needed, just route the 12v supply cable over the seats and you're done. Tested and works a treat.

Side note: I bought an extension cord with a 15A fuse so I need to replace it for a 10A one. I'm pretty sure the accessorie socket is already fused at 10A but I'll feel better with the correct fuse in the cigarette plug.

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PS: I wasn't sure if I should also use the negative lead from the accesssories extension. I thought: the kit explicitely said to use the chassis, and also, should the extension get warm, it's only one of the two wires that's going to warm up, not both. And also less heat in the car's cigarette lighter socket.
 
I did a wiring harness with a dedicated 12V lead from the battery. Working from underneath the car, with the aero panels removed it's actually not hard to do...however the aero panel removal takes some time. I did this work (the hitch and wiring etc.) at the same time I pulled all the undertrays from the car:

https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/corrosion-control-rust-proofing-a-2018-nissan-leaf-sl.32082/

That said, running a 12v in when needed is a lot quicker if you are just doing occasional use. I use my wiring harness all the time now for the bike rack's LED lights...

 
Thank you for the sharing this, Den. We're about to finish the last mods on the truck and we'll start the mods on the Leaf next. The headache rack and nerf bars for the truck showed up so we can take in the Leaf tomorrow. Still debating between a bike rack and a trailer.
 
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