Replacing NissanConnectEV with OVMS in a Gen1 Leaf

[woeful]

Look for a Y or splitter cable with all 16 pins connected, similar in appearance to eBay item 176754913180 - if you're lucky you may find one of the sockets clicks right in where the original used to be, and the combination may give nearly 12 inches of slack for your OVMS cable. Avoid the slightly cheaper type with a narrow ribbon cable: typically those connect through only about half the OBD-II pins.

 

[Stanton]

I do have a couple questions I'm curious if anybody else ran into:

1. I thought when turning on the climate control it would use the previous settings, but mine comes on in Auto mode which although that works well enough, is not how I have it set

I'm pretty sure that's the way "pre-heat" always worked (at least for Gen1).

1. After installing OVMS the key detection range for my fobs is significantly worse. I now have to twist my body so the pocket with the key is right up against the car for the unlock button on the door to work. I never paid any attention to how I stood before the OVMS install and both keys have gotten this insensitive at exactly the same time so I feel like it's likely related to installing OVMS, although I will try changing the key fob batteries just to rule that out.

Although I have no such issues, I have heard similar complaints (after OVMS install). All I can say is: I use the existing (GSM/LTE) antenna and don't use the OVMS GPS function at all...so I have no additional antennas in the "cockpit".

1. Is there a commonly available Y cable which would let me retain the OBD-II port? As it is now I have the connector tucked way up inside the dash just so the cable would reach, it would be a real pain to plug something else into the (occupied) port.

Pretty sure there is such a thing: Google is your friend.

 

[ctrowat]

Look for a Y or splitter cable with all 16 pins connected, similar in appearance to eBay item 176754913180 - if you're lucky you may find one of the sockets clicks right in where the original used to be, and the combination may give nearly 12 inches of slack for your OVMS cable. Avoid the slightly cheaper type with a narrow ribbon cable: typically those connect through only about half the OBD-II pins.
View attachment 6810

Thanks for the image and the item number, that helps a lot! That one you suggested looks like an incredibly close fit!

 

[ctrowat]

I'm pretty sure that's the way "pre-heat" always worked (at least for Gen1).

I thought that might be the case, but when people have talked about it on here it is usually said as if it comes on using the exact settings you had configured so I wanted to check.

Although I have no such issues, I have heard similar complaints (after OVMS install). All I can say is: I use the existing (GSM/LTE) antenna and don't use the OVMS GPS function at all...so I have no additional antennas in the "cockpit".

What is the best method for tying into the factory antenna? My 14 has the little extension cable, should I just cut one end off that cable and solder on an SMA jack? Do I need to be concerned about impedance?


I suspect it's the cell antenna more than the GPS antenna, as the GPS antenna should be receive only (while it is powered it shouldn't be transmitting anything significant). I think the cell antenna is emitting at a frequency that is close to some multiple of the intelligent key frequency, or perhaps an intermediate frequency used internally.

 

[Stanton]

What is the best method for tying into the factory antenna? My 14 has the little extension cable, should I just cut one end off that cable and solder on an SMA jack? Do I need to be concerned about impedance?

That's basically it: see this thread for some pics. I was worried about impedance as well, but I saw better performance (connect time)...and that was with a splice in my SMA->SMA coax extension also!

I suspect it's the cell antenna more than the GPS antenna, as the GPS antenna should be receive only (while it is powered it shouldn't be transmitting anything significant). I think the cell antenna is emitting at a frequency that is close to some multiple of the intelligent key frequency, or perhaps an intermediate frequency used internally.

Don't be so sure: GPS operates in the 2+ GHz spectrum--the same spectrum as many wireless remotes.

 

[ctrowat]

That's basically it: see this thread for some pics. I was worried about impedance as well, but I saw better performance (connect time)...and that was with a splice in my SMA->SMA coax extension also!

Perfect, I have an SMA extension cable on order that I will cut in half and join up. It was cheaper than ordering just a raw SMA jack somehow. I will post the results once the weather has warmed up enough to safely take apart the interior.

Don't be so sure: GPS operates in the 2+ GHz spectrum--the same spectrum as many wireless remotes.

To the best of my knowledge GPS operates at 1575.42MHz and 1227.6MHz (and 1176MHz for newer satellites), and the vast majority of wireless remotes operate at either 433MHz or 315MHz, though again some harmonics of these frequencies get close, and we can't forget that any system that modulates or amplifies may emit or receive inadvertently on intermediate frequencies. That said, the GPS antenna should not be transmitting anything in the first place, though it's internal amplifier may still leak something.

 

[Stanton]

To the best of my knowledge GPS operates at 1575.42MHz and 1227.6MHz (and 1176MHz for newer satellites), and the vast majority of wireless remotes operate at either 433MHz or 315MHz, though again some harmonics of these frequencies get close, and we can't forget that any system that modulates or amplifies may emit or receive inadvertently on intermediate frequencies.

I stand corrected! I guess I was thinking about Bluetooth, which could somehow be causing a problem also...

 

[ctrowat]

No worries - I hope my response wasn’t too rude (and I hope what I said is accurate)! I made up my adapter cable and installed it today. I can unlock the driver’s side door with the button once again! Also, cell signal strength is up between 4-10dB (4dB when parked outside in my driveway, but 10dB from inside my garage) which is a nice improvement! It would be great if the Nissan Leaf kit came with this adapter cable because it is almost a necessity.

 

[ctrowat]

Look for a Y or splitter cable with all 16 pins connected, similar in appearance to eBay item 176754913180 - if you're lucky you may find one of the sockets clicks right in where the original used to be, and the combination may give nearly 12 inches of slack for your OVMS cable. Avoid the slightly cheaper type with a narrow ribbon cable: typically those connect through only about half the OBD-II pins.
View attachment 6810

Thanks again for the reference picture! I bought this cable:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07PYGGVKW


And the white end clips perfectly into the dash and the black end is just stuffed up inside the dash with the OVMS plugged into it.

 

[Joaozinho]

Dala is a trusted source (I use his Can bridge), and the post looks legit. If you give it a try, please report back to this thread.

So I'm back home. Everything seems to be working except for stopping charging. Is there another setting in addition to the explicit one (I've set the below on the web interface and app Feature #10) that I'm missing?