SHENZHEN FACTORY TECHNOLOGY battery packs- is it real?

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My daughter's 2018 40kWh also got one bad cell. Still trying to figure out which will be the best way, change one or the entire pack
Should still be under warranty. What was the original use date of the vehicle?

What I did was buy new cells and replaced the bad ones, following all the manufacturers instructions. I balanced all cells at 4.000 +/- 0.003 volts; this way the new cells are slight lower than the the other cells at full charge, and higher at discharge. Finding someone to do this, or doing it yourself, is the biggest challenge.

This way if you need to sell the car, you can do so with worrying about any issues down the road with the next owner blaming you for faulty repairs.
 
Should still be under warranty. What was the original use date of the vehicle?

What I did was buy new cells and replaced the bad ones, following all the manufacturers instructions. I balanced all cells at 4.000 +/- 0.003 volts; this way the new cells are slight lower than the the other cells at full charge, and higher at discharge. Finding someone to do this, or doing it yourself, is the biggest challenge.

This way if you need to sell the car, you can do so with worrying about any issues down the road with the next owner blaming you for faulty repairs.
Mike, is there a thread about u replacing ur cells? If so can u post a link? If not where did u source the cells from? And is ur pack still original ? TIA
 
Mike, is there a thread about u replacing ur cells? If so can u post a link? If not where did u source the cells from? And is ur pack still original ? TIA
No. There is a thread about Nissan not recognizing my warranty claim! https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/weak-cell-44-in-2013-leaf-where-in-pack.30704/

There is plenty on line. Follow the manual completely. Some hints--the pack safety plug latch is tricky--take your time. Bring the pack to a known cell voltage and do so with replacement cells as well before opening the pack. A narrow drywall taping knife with hammer end that has been sharpened can be driven around the seal PDQ without messing the case up. The same tool "floats" nicely to skive up the remaining gasket material by hand. Warm up the new sealant and use a powerful electric caulking gun. Dry fit the case lid and check for clearances--because 2 tubes of very expensive sealant will barely do it.. There is a leak test that must be run, use a cheap manometer, make up a plug from a compatible drain plug, and a Ryobi electric air pump. I always retorque any connection involving copper after 24 hours because the copper eases away from the first torque. Honeywell Salisbury gloves with leather over gloves. Make a lifting frame for the car out of 4X6 treated and use 4 cheap jacks to lift the whole vehicle straight up. And so on.

The trick is finding a good cell.

Overall--way more fun than working on ICE engines. No smells, you hands stay clean, etc. The 2013 Leaf is very well made--Nissan did a great job except for the cells. If you are going to do a cell swap, start a new thread and we can have some fun.
 
Yaste's 63kwh entire pack, remove original cells, and install the CATL cells with connections around US$6200 includes all fees.
My daughter's 2018 40kWh also got one bad cell. Still trying to figure out which will be the best way, change one or the entire pack
 
From what I understand, the 62 kwh BMS should work fine with a standard MITM can bridge and up to about 70 kwh of cells. It is the mismatched packs out there with battery capacity > 120% of the original BMS's application that are going to have issues.

The temperature turtle was unrelated to the battery?
 
The temperature turtle was unrelated to the battery?

I haven't done another fast charge test to confirm but I do believe the battery wasn't overheating, in the service manual it said the turtle can come on from inverter over-temperature or motor over-temperature.

I am trying to find the motor and inverter temperature on leafspy. I can see one one page that I assume is motor temperature.
Screenshot_20241002_072344_LeafSpy Pro.jpg
 
From what I understand, the 62 kwh BMS should work fine with a standard MITM can bridge and up to about 70 kwh of cells. It is the mismatched packs out there with battery capacity > 120% of the original BMS's application that are going to have issues.

The temperature turtle was unrelated to the battery?

MITM? I’m guessing man in the middle, but just haven’t seen that name applied here so thought I should check. If I’m right, that’s fine, I understand the can bridge is placed inline from the installation videos I’ve seen.
 
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