Starting,Steering warning light on, stuck on N, cannot engage on R or D

[lamimartin]

Hi, This morning, the Steering light warning came back even after turning the 2018 Leaf off than back On. It remains stuck on Neutral. 20 min later, I tried again and everything was back to normal.

I read previous postings about such a problem (steering warning light), but 12V battery is 12,6V and Load test is 100% state of health. It has been changed a month ago with the best quality Lead Acid I could find (rated 615 CCA, I know, CCA are somewhat useless for a Leaf). Voltage on battery is 12,6v when OFF. If turned on, charging engages at 14,4V. Outdoor temp is 15C, main battery state of charge is 72%, not charged for 24hour, but driven the previous day from 90% SOC. There are no DTC errors on LeafSpy Pro. Usually, we drove it every day and recharge it to 80-85% and disconnect the charger (rarely left connected overnight, charged limited by programming charger timer).

I called the local Nissan service advisor and was told they may get some clues by checking OBD2 with their more advanced scanners, but If the Steering warning light does not remain ON when they check, chances are slim to quickly find anything with such an intermittent problem. They checked the car after I purchased it used two months ago, they applied recalls + latest firmware upgrades and found nothing wrong. This Leaf looks brand new, 105,000km odometer. Main battery SOH is at 90%. Only problem so far was the old 12V battery not holding change. It got replaced.

Anybody had similar intermittent problem with steering warning light?

 

[nlspace]

Sometimes when stuck in N, it is due to an issue with the HV traction battery control (e.g. accident/air bag deployment detected so only N allowed for loading/towing).

Since you are 2-month owner this car is "new" to you, and "unknown" with respect to past history.

Checking the 12V was a good first step, and it appears that it is okay. You might try disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 1/2 hr to see if the error lamp clears.

Intermittent electrical issues are among the most difficult to troubleshoot, but typically they are caused by wiring harness (rodent damage) or connector contact corrosion (salt or rodent piss). There are numerous pictures of examples of these on car forums. Get a bright flashlight and do your own inspection--probably better and cheaper than dealer.

Strange why MIL is showing with no DTC..?

 

[lamimartin]

Sometimes when stuck in N, it is due to an issue with the HV traction battery control (e.g. accident/air bag deployment detected so only N allowed for loading/towing).

Since you are 2-month owner this car is "new" to you, and "unknown" with respect to past history.

Checking the 12V was a good first step, and it appears that it is okay. You might try disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 1/2 hr to see if the error lamp clears.

Intermittent electrical issues are among the most difficult to troubleshoot, but typically they are caused by wiring harness (rodent damage) or connector contact corrosion (salt or rodent piss). There are numerous pictures of examples of these on car forums. Get a bright flashlight and do your own inspection--probably better and cheaper than dealer.

Strange why MIL is showing with no DTC..?

Thanks for your clues. I was told by dealer not to erase any error in Leafspy if I found one. If I disconnect the battery, any error message that LeafSpy basic scanning can't read will vanish, so I will wait for battery disconnect. Radio may also need to be unlocked with the dealer ( I don't have it for now, I swapped the old battery maintaining power with jumping wires). So far, I don't see any signs of rodent presence or damaged wiring, but I will certainly start by an extensive inspection, while I change the gear oil in my garage. I've got a Quick jack for such maintenance. I live in forest, so rodents are very active before winter hits!

 

[nlspace]

Did you check the fluid level for the power steering? Low fluid level warning may not throw a DTC?

Find the connector for the power steering pump and inspect the contacts, clean if dirty, and try again.

don't know why that would prohibit D or R?

 

[cornbinder89]

You can write down any codes that are stored, but if It is showing none, then it will not show more to the dealer.
Disconnecting the battery will erase the codes as well.
Again, odd that it would lock out ready mode but not show a code.

 

[lamimartin]

Did you check the fluid level for the power steering? Low fluid level warning may not throw a DTC?

Find the connector for the power steering pump and inspect the contacts, clean if dirty, and try again.

don't know why that would prohibit D or R?

Dealer told me steering is Electric, not hydraulic. There is no oil filling under the hood. Juste brakes and windshield washer fluid.

 

[nlspace]

Okay then inspect connector(s) for the electric motor associated with steering and the steering angle sensor. i don't know which ecu controls the motor, maybe BCM, but check those connectors also.

Maybe someone can post up the 2018 steering system wiring diagram for you to trace and ring out all the connectors.

[edit]
i went to look in the manuals and realized if the air bag in the steering wheel were defective or replaced, then that could trigger the "been in an accident, no drive" situation.

It has it's own controller, EPS.

CAUTION:
Disconnect 12V battery negative terminal before starting operations.
Do not remove EPS control unit from steering column assembly. When replacing EPS control unit, replace steering column assembly.

Doesn't sound very user friendly or serviceable, but i wouldn't let that stop me from trying.

wiring diagram, see attached

 

[cornbinder89]

I believe that would leave a code, however. I could be wrong. Reading DTC's when the problem is active is paramount.

 

[cornbinder89]

Your 2018 is going to be a little different then my 2015, However, if along with that P/S light you also get a battery light, it would seam it is going into "accessory mode and not "ready" mode.
So make sure you are pressing firmly on the brake when you hit the button, to double check that you are selecting "ready" and not "accessory" Would also help to have someone check to see if the brake lights are coming on.
You can shift to neutral in accessory but no other gear.
Except for the lack of reported battery light, it seams to be mimicking mine when I press start with my foot off the brake.

 

[lamimartin]

Your 2018 is going to be a little different then my 2015, However, if along with that P/S light you also get a battery light, it would seam it is going into "accessory mode and not "ready" mode.
So make sure you are pressing firmly on the brake when you hit the button, to double check that you are selecting "ready" and not "accessory" Would also help to have someone check to see if the brake lights are coming on.
You can shift to neutral in accessory but no other gear.
Except for the lack of reported battery light, it seams to be mimicking mine when I press start with my foot off the brake.

If I don't press brake enough as I'm trying to turn on the Leaf, the screen message simply repeats the invitation to press on the brake. It is totally different than your description and so far, it never did relate to steering warning light in any way on my 2018. Currently, I am rather suspecting that 12V battery voltage may have shortly dropped below a critical threshold as headlights turned on (auto position), heater activated and power seat got adjusted simultaneously. Battery measured voltage under the hood was 12.6V after the incident, even if battery testing was 100%, it is not impossible to have a short voltage drop with sudden high demand. I first have to check all wiring to eliminate possible critter damages or corosion. This will take me a few days. Otherwise, everything appears to be back to normal so far.

 

[cornbinder89]

I have no experience with a MY 2018, just reporting what my 2015 does.
I have another thread going about the 12 volt charging system.
I was outside today playing around with mine while monitoring the 12 volt battery voltage. After a long time playing with the P/S (puts a fair load on the battery) and going in and out of park, I saw the battery dip below 11.8 volts, with absolutely no ill effects, car would go in and out of Park, and would start (go into ready) at which point the DC-DC converter would kick on, and the voltage rise to around 14.5 volts.

 

[Jeffs231Leafp]

Dealer told me steering is Electric, not hydraulic. There is no oil filling under the hood. Juste brakes and windshield washer fluid.

There should also be CHECKING COOLANT LEVEL for the inverter. See the do it yourself section of the manual.

 

[Jeffs231Leafp]

Hi, This morning, the Steering light warning came back even after turning the 2018 Leaf off than back On. It remains stuck on Neutral. 20 min later, I tried again and everything was back to normal.

I read previous postings about such a problem (steering warning light), but 12V battery is 12,6V and Load test is 100% state of health. It has been changed a month ago with the best quality Lead Acid I could find (rated 615 CCA, I know, CCA are somewhat useless for a Leaf). Voltage on battery is 12,6v when OFF. If turned on, charging engages at 14,4V. Outdoor temp is 15C, main battery state of charge is 72%, not charged for 24hour, but driven the previous day from 90% SOC. There are no DTC errors on LeafSpy Pro. Usually, we drove it every day and recharge it to 80-85% and disconnect the charger (rarely left connected overnight, charged limited by programming charger timer).

I called the local Nissan service advisor and was told they may get some clues by checking OBD2 with their more advanced scanners, but If the Steering warning light does not remain ON when they check, chances are slim to quickly find anything with such an intermittent problem. They checked the car after I purchased it used two months ago, they applied recalls + latest firmware upgrades and found nothing wrong. This Leaf looks brand new, 105,000km odometer. Main battery SOH is at 90%. Only problem so far was the old 12V battery not holding change. It got replaced.

Anybody had similar intermittent problem with steering warning light?

 

[Jeffs231Leafp]

1. You may have caused a glitch by trying to keep 12 volts on the system while changing the 12 VDC battery
2. There is also COOLANT for the High Voltage Inverter that converts the HV Battery DC to AC to move the car.
3. It’s always an option to leave it as is and let the dealership handle the trouble shooting, instead of disconnecting the 12 VDC battery negative terminal for 1/2 hour. That is up to you.
4. LeafSpy Pro ( Requires a OBD2 dongle, I use the CARISTA on) can show and optional in reset DTCs