Looked at, took some measurements of and test drove an ID.4 Pro today. Some impressions:
Liked the feel, typical german taut but refined driving dynamics. This was 2WD so noticeably lower accel than the Bolt but more than adequate, especially at altitude.
In view of comments in reviews about limited regen in 'B' mode, took car down steepest hill I could find nearby, 14%, and was able to hold speed to mid-20s or so without using brake. But this was 4 lanes with slight curves, and I would need to try it on steeper, much tighter and narrower 2-lanes like Old Priest Grade (18%) on way back from Yosemite and/or descending east side of Sonora Pass (26%) to be sure it was adequate - the Bolt's 'B' with or w/o paddle felt stronger.
Very bright speed display, could use a bit more info there like a better SoC display (small bar graph, possible I could set it more to my taste if I had time to read manual and experiment).
Electronic proximity key only, with no actual mechanical key cylinder in the door or for the ignition. I haven't unlocked the door of my car manually for years, but I know I can if needed. I know these proximity keys are all the rage now, but I can just imagine returning to the car in a howling snow storm only to find the key battery's dead, and I can't get into or drive the frickin' car. There appears to be a small slot on the underside of the driver's side door handle, which the end of the key fits in so at least you can use the car for shelter. Anyone have any info on what the emergency action is in such cases? Am I being overly paranoid and there are reasonable work-arounds, or could this be a serious issue? I'm no Luddite, but I do want to know I have a reliable backup.
HVAC controls all on center touch screen requiring taking eyes off the road to use, which I hate. Dual-zone HVAC but AFAICT no driver-only mode, wasting energy when solo. Rear view poorish, small sloped glass area with head rests blocking much of the remaining view. Also very dark tint. Decent view to rear quarters, good to front quarters. Blind spot warning lights mounted in outside mirror housings, worked well.
Comfy seats with lots of leg room. Couldn't find lumbar adjustment and didn't ask if had it. Front seat had limited toe room under it when sitting in rear, but driver's seat height could be raised so might be okay then.
With rear seats folded down, lots of available length to sleep in or load long cargo. However, the rear end of the rear seats when folded isn't flush with the cargo bay floor (unlike my Forester), it's stepped 5.75" above it, which means you'd need to use some pillows, foam or wood/metal structure to level it out. This also makes sliding long, awkward loads like a bike in and out a lot more hassle.
Also, with the seats folded down, there's a big gap between their front end and the front center console, and only a small rear center headrest to provide support (after flipping it over; I do this in my Forester), leaving a considerable unsupported space where your upper torso and neck would be. The console is also quite low, requiring a couple of pillows to raise the height up to level with the seats. I bought the optional center console for my Forester for just that reason, as it provides another level storage compartment on top of the standard one, bringing it level with the top of the folded seat backs at their forward end.
Measurements of cargo area etc. (accurate to 1/2" or so) for those who have similar needs:
Length of up rear seat base to rear gate: 37.5"
Length of up rear seat top to rear: 24" - 27"
Min. Width through rear gate: 33.8"?(measured across the flat section, inside of the upwards curve at the sides. 33.8" seems too small, and it may be 38.8")
Max. width through rear gate: 43.4"
Liftover height: 30"
Sill height: 6" (quite a drop. My Forester has a liftover height of 27", and a sill height of 0.5", but essentially flush with the waterproof cargo tray I have on the Bay floor, so sliding long, awkward loads in and out is much easier. OTOH the Forester also has an external bumper, so the distance between the bumper and the rear sill is greater).
Min. width between towers 39.5"
No spare tire well, small under-floor cargo well at rear of bay with min. dim. 26"W x 8" L x 9" D, holds fix-a-flat kit and inflator, w/ room for portable EVSE (120V/10A, strap to hold same on left cargo area wall otherwise) & some other small stuff.
Small bay lights one on either side just below level of inflexible tilt-up cargo cover. As I learned with the Bolt, such lights provide far inferior illumination to one mounted centrally in the headliner, when also using a roller cargo cover like my Forester has. I wouldn't have been aware of this if I hadn't rented the Bolt last year, and I used to wonder why Subaru used the roller type of cover instead of the simpler, cheaper type. Now I know, and the difference is great.
Also, the cargo bay lights can't be switched on and off from there. My Forester has the same three-way Off/Door/On switch as the dome light, mounted right on the light housing, and I find that much superior.
8 sturdy cargo tie-down rings, 4 at front sides of bay, 4 at rear.
Summarizing, liked the way it drove, not thrilled with the HVAC controls or rear view and lack of spare tire space, and sleeping in it or loading and unloading long heavy and/or awkward stuff would require a lot of DIY work-arounds. Since easy cargo/sleeping access is very important for me, and a rear seat step-up makes that problematic, I'd almost certainly reject it for that reason alone (when I bought my Forester in 2003, one of the reasons I eliminated the CR-V from consideration was due to such a step-up, and I'm glad I did). Too bad.
HTH anyone considering an ID.4. What may seem cargo area trivia to some becomes really important when you're frequently packing, loading or unloading gear, often in inclement weather and/or half asleep when your brain's also dealing with reduced O2 owing to the altitude, usually at Zero-Dark-Thirty while you're rushing to get ready to hit the trail or enter the water (scuba).