Volkswagen ID.4 CUV

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I guess these are getting a bit delayed. Was supposed to be by end of May. Now dealer is saying 1st week of June.

I guess delay is par for the course when buying a brand new model. I will keep you posted on my delivery experience and how the car turns out after I have some real driving experience with it.
 
I think this is a winning strategy. There is a reason the cars sold to 90%+ of the market have fairly similar styling - it's what appeals to people. I'm not seeking a car that screams "I'm driving an EV". Had the eGolf been out when I bought the Leaf, I would have gone with that - much harder to spot it as an EV as well as more fun to drive with about same range. If carmakers are serious about selling EVs as mainstream, they will need to do more styling that appeals to the masses.
 
Back when I was looking for my first EV I had 2 choices in my state, the awful-looking (IMO) Mitsubishi iMe and the quirky-looking Leaf, with its bug-eye headlights. I chose the lesser of the 2 evils and got the Leaf. Well the iMe had other negatives going for it other than the design but if they weren't EV I'd have never given either a second look. I liked the design of lots of ICE vehicles but when it came to EVs, being EV would have to be my #1 priority, looks be damned. I'd also have strongly looked at the VW Golf but I'm pretty sure it wasn't available in my non CARB state :(
 
jjeff said:
Back when I was looking for my first EV I had 2 choices in my state, the awful-looking (IMO) Mitsubishi iMe and the quirky-looking Leaf, with its bug-eye headlights. I chose the lesser of the 2 evils and got the Leaf. Well the iMe had other negatives going for it other than the design but if they weren't EV I'd have never given either a second look. I liked the design of lots of ICE vehicles but when it came to EVs, being EV would have to be my #1 priority, looks be damned. I'd also have strongly looked at the VW Golf but I'm pretty sure it wasn't available in my non CARB state :(

On the VW e-Golf -- same here for a new one (IL is also a non-CARB state like MN) but before buying a used one I checked with my local VW service center at the time and they had just trained a tech as well as installed a charging station so bought a used one. The car was an interim EV for me while I waited for my first Tesla Model 3 to arrive. My '12 LEAF was no longer working for my work commute (barely during 3 season's and no longer good at all during colder temps) - the used '15 VW e-Golf I bought had a little over 1K miles on it, owned by a former VW exec and had almost a 50% off list price sale price through Carmax -- hard to pass up. VW stopped offering them in the US new after the '19 edition and was still just CARB states -- as the VW shops are gearing up for this new batch of EV's they're still a great deal used - and at the '17 model year the range bumped up as well. Still have an order for the ID.4 AWD pending, drove one RWD 1st edition with VW having another drive event this week.
 
Got my new ID.4. In a couple weeks, I will post my assessment. It will take me a while to get the hang of the interface and don't want to do any premature critiques.
 
Got my new ID.4. In a couple weeks, I will post my assessment. It will take me a while to get the hang of the interface and don't want to do any premature critiques.

Thanks- the VW is not yet available in 4wd is that correct? and may never be?
 
LeftieBiker said:
the VW is not yet available in 4wd is that correct? and may never be?

My understanding is that the RWD version is just first in North America, and the AWD model will follow later this year.

I think I heard that AWD was pushed from 4Q 2021 to early 2Q 2022 but definitely is in the plans.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
LeftieBiker said:
the VW is not yet available in 4wd is that correct? and may never be?

My understanding is that the RWD version is just first in North America, and the AWD model will follow later this year.

I think I heard that AWD was pushed from 4Q 2021 to early 2Q 2022 but definitely is in the plans.

You could also get the AWD sister in the Audi Q4 Etron, if AWD is something you have to have, and if it is out first. I'd take the cheaper vehicle without it. YMMV
 
Thanks for all of the helpful responses...... I have driven too many old jeeps for anything with 2 driven axles to ever not be 4wd......
 
GCC:
VW ID.4 AWD Pro to reach dealers in Q4 with starting MSRP of $43,675

https://www.greencarcongress.com/2021/06/202106180-vw.html


. . . With two electric motors, max 295 horsepower and an estimated 0-60 mph time of 5.7 seconds for the AWD Pro model, the ID.4 AWD offers performance and all-weather traction with a starting MSRP of $43,675.

The ID.4 AWD combines the permanent magnet synchronous electric motor on the rear axle of the standard ID.4 with a new asynchronous electric motor on the front axle. . . .

The ID.4 AWD Pro can reach 60 mph from a standstill in an estimated 5.7 seconds. Towing capacity rises to 2,700 pounds when using a braked trailer, over the rear-wheel-drive 1st Edition model’s 2,200 pounds. The ID.4 AWD comes with a standard tow hitch and electrically heated windshield. All other features of the rear-wheel-drive ID.4 carry over to the AWD model, including its 82 kWh battery pack, spacious interior and IQ.DRIVE suite of driver assistance technologies.

All ID.4 models can also receive over-the-air software updates to add functionality in the future. The EPA-estimated range is 249 miles for the AWD Pro and 240 miles for the AWD Pro S (Statement).

The ID.4 AWD comes in two trims. The starting manufacturer’s suggested retail price of $43,675 for the ID.4 AWD Pro is currently the lowest starting MSRP for an all-wheel-drive battery-electric vehicle in the United States. The ID.4 AWD Pro S starts at a MSRP of $48,175. The optional Gradient package (available on the AWD Pro S) adds 20-inch aluminum-alloy wheels and further design differentiators. Destination for all ID.4 models is $1,195. . . .
 
Looked at, took some measurements of and test drove an ID.4 Pro today. Some impressions:

Liked the feel, typical german taut but refined driving dynamics. This was 2WD so noticeably lower accel than the Bolt but more than adequate, especially at altitude.

In view of comments in reviews about limited regen in 'B' mode, took car down steepest hill I could find nearby, 14%, and was able to hold speed to mid-20s or so without using brake. But this was 4 lanes with slight curves, and I would need to try it on steeper, much tighter and narrower 2-lanes like Old Priest Grade (18%) on way back from Yosemite and/or descending east side of Sonora Pass (26%) to be sure it was adequate - the Bolt's 'B' with or w/o paddle felt stronger.

Very bright speed display, could use a bit more info there like a better SoC display (small bar graph, possible I could set it more to my taste if I had time to read manual and experiment).

Electronic proximity key only, with no actual mechanical key cylinder in the door or for the ignition. I haven't unlocked the door of my car manually for years, but I know I can if needed. I know these proximity keys are all the rage now, but I can just imagine returning to the car in a howling snow storm only to find the key battery's dead, and I can't get into or drive the frickin' car. There appears to be a small slot on the underside of the driver's side door handle, which the end of the key fits in so at least you can use the car for shelter. Anyone have any info on what the emergency action is in such cases? Am I being overly paranoid and there are reasonable work-arounds, or could this be a serious issue? I'm no Luddite, but I do want to know I have a reliable backup.

HVAC controls all on center touch screen requiring taking eyes off the road to use, which I hate. Dual-zone HVAC but AFAICT no driver-only mode, wasting energy when solo. Rear view poorish, small sloped glass area with head rests blocking much of the remaining view. Also very dark tint. Decent view to rear quarters, good to front quarters. Blind spot warning lights mounted in outside mirror housings, worked well.

Comfy seats with lots of leg room. Couldn't find lumbar adjustment and didn't ask if had it. Front seat had limited toe room under it when sitting in rear, but driver's seat height could be raised so might be okay then.

With rear seats folded down, lots of available length to sleep in or load long cargo. However, the rear end of the rear seats when folded isn't flush with the cargo bay floor (unlike my Forester), it's stepped 5.75" above it, which means you'd need to use some pillows, foam or wood/metal structure to level it out. This also makes sliding long, awkward loads like a bike in and out a lot more hassle.

Also, with the seats folded down, there's a big gap between their front end and the front center console, and only a small rear center headrest to provide support (after flipping it over; I do this in my Forester), leaving a considerable unsupported space where your upper torso and neck would be. The console is also quite low, requiring a couple of pillows to raise the height up to level with the seats. I bought the optional center console for my Forester for just that reason, as it provides another level storage compartment on top of the standard one, bringing it level with the top of the folded seat backs at their forward end.

Measurements of cargo area etc. (accurate to 1/2" or so) for those who have similar needs:

Length of up rear seat base to rear gate: 37.5"

Length of up rear seat top to rear: 24" - 27"

Min. Width through rear gate: 33.8"?(measured across the flat section, inside of the upwards curve at the sides. 33.8" seems too small, and it may be 38.8")

Max. width through rear gate: 43.4"

Liftover height: 30"

Sill height: 6" (quite a drop. My Forester has a liftover height of 27", and a sill height of 0.5", but essentially flush with the waterproof cargo tray I have on the Bay floor, so sliding long, awkward loads in and out is much easier. OTOH the Forester also has an external bumper, so the distance between the bumper and the rear sill is greater).

Min. width between towers 39.5"

No spare tire well, small under-floor cargo well at rear of bay with min. dim. 26"W x 8" L x 9" D, holds fix-a-flat kit and inflator, w/ room for portable EVSE (120V/10A, strap to hold same on left cargo area wall otherwise) & some other small stuff.

Small bay lights one on either side just below level of inflexible tilt-up cargo cover. As I learned with the Bolt, such lights provide far inferior illumination to one mounted centrally in the headliner, when also using a roller cargo cover like my Forester has. I wouldn't have been aware of this if I hadn't rented the Bolt last year, and I used to wonder why Subaru used the roller type of cover instead of the simpler, cheaper type. Now I know, and the difference is great.

Also, the cargo bay lights can't be switched on and off from there. My Forester has the same three-way Off/Door/On switch as the dome light, mounted right on the light housing, and I find that much superior.

8 sturdy cargo tie-down rings, 4 at front sides of bay, 4 at rear.


Summarizing, liked the way it drove, not thrilled with the HVAC controls or rear view and lack of spare tire space, and sleeping in it or loading and unloading long heavy and/or awkward stuff would require a lot of DIY work-arounds. Since easy cargo/sleeping access is very important for me, and a rear seat step-up makes that problematic, I'd almost certainly reject it for that reason alone (when I bought my Forester in 2003, one of the reasons I eliminated the CR-V from consideration was due to such a step-up, and I'm glad I did). Too bad.

HTH anyone considering an ID.4. What may seem cargo area trivia to some becomes really important when you're frequently packing, loading or unloading gear, often in inclement weather and/or half asleep when your brain's also dealing with reduced O2 owing to the altitude, usually at Zero-Dark-Thirty while you're rushing to get ready to hit the trail or enter the water (scuba).
 
Nice review.

This is a little premature as I've only had it a short time and am still working through the manual so maybe their are solutions I haven't found yet.

I will 2nd the issue about the climate controls. The only way to adjust fan settings is through the infotainment screens, which is a pain to do while driving. This really should be buttons or a dial.

Also, sometimes the infotainment system takes a long time to boot up. This isn't an issue while driving, but it is annoying as the HVAC doesn't turn on until it does. So unless you used the remote HVAC start through the app, you could have an extra sit in a really hot car before it starts to do anything. And no sound system either until it boots up.

The Apple Carplay pairing sometimes takes multiple unplugs and replugs to get it to set up.

Only 2 window buttons at a time is annoying.

Locking and unlocking the car from the inside lacks any sort of audible clue that it did anything and no visible door lock switch on the doors. I hope it locked when I think it did.

As for the proximity key, I don't think that is an issue. There is a manual key that will supposedly open the door. The dealer claimed the ignition recognizes the key without the battery, but I'm not real confident in that. As a matter of habit, I keep a spare keyfob battery in the car at all times. So, as long as I can get into the car, I can get the key working. This new keyfob takes CR 2032.

The guy installing my dashcam with rear view camera isn't happy about the hatchback configuration for wiring a camera to the rear glass. Looking at it, I concur with his objection. I've opted to go with mounting on the rear roof crossbar, which will trim the angle of view given how far in that is versus the hatch window. That will happen later this week. I will let you know if this proves to be a major problem.

There is no odometer display on the drive screen. This appears to be only accessible through the infotainment.

As for state of charge, the drive screen display is poor. The infotainment screen has better info if you dig through the screens to get to it. The phone app has good info on it, but I won't be accessing that while driving.

So far, I really like the handling and the smooth ride. Very quiet interior.
 
Thanks for the keyfob info, and like you I'd secrete one or at least a spare battery somewhere inside. It's something I'm going to have to ask about for every new car I look at.

While I didn't have the opportunity to drive it on a rough road, I have little doubt that the ride would be far better than the Bolt's, which was very poor on one; it reminded me of my old Datsun 2000 Roadster.

You brought up the lack of clues that the car is locked. I noticed it at the time, but didn't think that much about it. Since you mention it, that would be an issue for me as well. Being essentially deaf now with my hearing aids off, I've gotten used to relying on the lights flashing when I lock the car with the remote, and I can see the lock/unlock switches on the doors when I'm inside. Is there any visual indication from outside that the doors are locked? Trying them manually would seem to be self-defeating, as the key would unlock at least the driver's side door as soon as you walked up to the car.

No doubt it's habit, but the lack of an odometer/tripmeter ahead of me on the speedometer display was annoying.

One other thing, the diameter of the tires (19" wheel) was about 29", and from my measurements it appears there's not enough room to stand a spare wheel/tire up against the left sidewall in the cargo bay with the rear seat up, owing to the slope of the rear window preventing the tire from being placed against the rear gate. For those of us who insist on carrying a full-size spare, this means you have to lay it down, eating up more cargo space. The "40" part of the 60/40 split rear seat is on that side, so you _could_ fold that side down, stand the tire upright a bit further forward and still carry two people in the rear, in some discomfort probably, on the right portion of the seat. I prefer to have a seat in between me and any dense cargo, as I don't want it flying into me in a bad accident; the cargo tie-downs should at least allow you to prevent that with the seat down, but I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy when it comes to restraining heavy missiles carried inside so they can't kill me, and prefer to use both methods for my scuba tanks, backpacks etc.
 
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