Yay! Make SURE it has DC FC if you want it. It MUST have the orange flap covering the two holes below the J1772 part. Don't waste your time if it doesn't have it. Visual aid at https://allev.info/2020/03/can-dcfc-be-added-later/
. It will also be a $750 line item on the window sticker. Chevy dealers I've seen all have a window sticker button/link and will show that item, if present.
1) Yes. Hold up the handle on any stations w/heavy cables until the plug is locked to the car, which is probably all EA stations. You can hear the lock mechanism at ~2:30 into video at https://www.torquenews.com/8861/chevrol ... orrections
Check Plugshare for all sites that you plan to use and backups.
2) Don't know now. I put on the initial $25 or whatever very early on. I believe the min amount is lower than when I started. I guess you can put nothing on and try. But, be prepared to deal w/their site or calling them if it doesn't work, to add the CC.
"How do I pay for charging?
When you sign up for a free ChargePoint account, you provide payment info so you’ll be ready to charge wherever you go. The first time you use a public station with a fee, we’ll charge you $10 to keep as a balance on your account. If you only use free stations or only charge at home with ChargePoint Home, you’ll never be charged."
Be sure to install the ChargePoint app and login to it before leaving from home. Ditto for EVgo and any other networks along the way, except maybe EA: just run but don't sign up yet.
Back to CP, login to your ChargePoint account and check that your card is linked to your account. One that's not linked nor activated is probably useless. I used CP most days at my work pre-COVID but it was all free at work. I've used paid CP a few times this year, so far. I have 3 CP RFID cards, all linked to the same account. One more might come with your Bolt (mine did, has a Chevy logo on it).
3) You REALLY should use the app for EA. Some CC readers don't work. Search https://insideevs.com/news/389891/exclu ... solutions/
for credit card reader.
As for the Pass+ price of 31 cents/kWh, I'm pretty sure you MUST use the app for that. I don't think there's ANY way to do that w/o it. When I signed up on EA, I was initially forced to choose Pass or Pass+ and be stuck with that for a month. Now after downgrading from Pass+ to Pass, they seem to allow upgrading at any time.
If you don't know if you'll use EA, just bring a few CC's along and sign up for Pass+ via their app while at a working EA site. If you are sure you will use it, wait until 0 to 3 days before the trip and sign up if you worry about when the Pass+ month clock starts ticking.
4) "it appears that it only keeps track of total energy usage since the last 'full' charge. Is this correct, or will it reset after a lesser charge?" -
I don't bother with this as my charging habits are intentionally quirky (e.g. avoiding charging at home on PG&E rates). What it considers "full" is dictated target charge level (skip 1:40 into https://insideevs.com/news/339311/video ... e-control/
). There are quirks like if I am say at 80% battery then drop the target charge level to 40%, I think the energy usage in kWh and its trip odo will reset to 0. After learning of home and away settings for that, I set home to 40% and away to 100% (usually), so beats me when it resets. I just ignore it now.
If start with 100% and leave target charge level at 100% then do a bunch of partial charges in between NOT going to 100%, it will not reset. So, you could see stuff like energy used 150 kWh and 600 miles traveled.
You may want to watch the video at https://electricrevs.com/2018/07/17/wat ... -to-55-kw/
to get a sense of the ramp down. However, 2020 has more gentle ramp downs and not those sharp drops.
I won't be able to answer your path and charging location questions until later tonight or this week. Hope someone else can.