That is unless you use Google, then it becomes a fact that it's easy to find and while someone implementing this could not buy and install the GFCI having it wired inline solves the issue of having to remember to plug it in/etc.EVDRIVER wrote:Besides that fact that a plug in 240V, 20A GFCI is almost impossible to find it is likely that someone will either skip using it or leave it behind even if it is available.
Then I would also guess that most use cases of this "BareEVSE" would be on 120volt so GFCI on that would be easily added, but it's only $70 for 120/240 volt GFCI inline: http://www.amazon.com/Power-First-5YL46 ... B001NPL8VQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I would assume we are all comfortable with 120 volt and maybe even 240 volt being used outside when protected by GFCI? So I think that bit of safety can easily be ensured.
How is this any less safe than using an extension cord with the Nissan EVSE, Phil's upgraded EVSE at 240 volt, or OpenEVSE? Obviously safety should be considered when using an extension but I don't see scathing comments about how extension cords are cheap hacks and that suggesting the use of them is irresponsible....EVDRIVER wrote: I'm sure that if you were a US resident or had more concern for the safety of others and their property you would be less likely to make these irresponsible postings with cheap "hacks". Besides the lack of concern for safety, things like this almost always come back to reflect poorly on EVs in general once someone gets burned in every sense of the word.
I think it's fair to say that even your EVSE Upgrade and the Nissan EVSE both need to be used in a special sequence which is similar to this. My question for you is does disconnecting the cord end of normal EVSE or power failure/dips have the same risk of causing OBC damage as it does in this always hot EVSE or are the additional relays and features in a normal EVSE adding additional protection?Ingineer wrote: Driving a car is not the same as connecting the car in a special sequence. This may be fine if the car has only one user, but if there is a family situation with kids and spouses, it could easily be forgotten or skipped. With your always-hot circuit, All it takes is one power failure or dip, and BOOM!
I don't understand the impact of what happens when the J1772 is hot when it's plugged in and what the internal pre-charge system does but I'll confidently trust that this part of getting the sequence wrong is as you said catastrophic.Ingineer wrote: Nissan will definitely void your warranty on your OBC and your Inlet if you use this device that is "always hot", which has been proven to destroy on-board chargers. It can also cause arcing and damage to your inlet. If you are concerned about multi-thousand dollar repair bills, I would avoid this!
There is a reason why the Leaf sets a DTC and lights up a warning! Connecting power to an asleep charger defeats the internal pre-charge system and if this happens, it can be catastrophic! Since there is nothing preventing this from happening except for a specific manual sequence, it's bound to happen at some point.
Having said that, I'm certainly not going to be doing anything that Phil says not to, even if I don't fully understand why. I can't wait for my OpenEVSE parts to arrive.
BetterLeaf, thanks for taking the time to layout what you've done and for providing a conversation about this topic. I certainly wish the best for your LEAF and I hope you'll do some more research into the topics that Phil has addressed with regards to the OBC.