LEAF is an inexpensive car to buy

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tcherniaev

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2012
Messages
82
Location
Salt Lake City, Utah
So I was looking at some statistics today, and I noticed that average sales price of new vehicles in the United States was $30,750. Considering all available discounts and tax credits, most LEAFs sell for LESS THAN AVERAGE. Add fuel savings of around $150-200 per month on top of that, and LEAF becomes very inexpensive car to own.

So based on these affordability numbers we should call LEAF a people's car, a car that an 'average Joe' can easily afford. So why all this talk in the media about LEAF being an expensive vehicle that most can't afford? Statistically, most CAN afford to buy LEAF!

Even Tesla model S (at least in base configuration) falls inside 75% on the curve.
 
tcherniaev said:
So I was looking at some statistics today, and I noticed that average sales price of new vehicles in the United States was $30,750. Considering all available discounts and tax credits, most LEAFs sell for LESS THAN AVERAGE. Add fuel savings of around $150-200 per month on top of that, and LEAF becomes very inexpensive car to own.

So based on these affordability numbers we should call LEAF a people's car, a car that an 'average Joe' can easily afford. So why all this talk in the media about LEAF being an expensive vehicle that most can't afford? Statistically, most CAN afford to buy LEAF!
The upfront price is high. You don't get the tax credit until much later, assuming you qualify. You have to wait for any state incentive. You have to pay sales tax on the full amount. People frequently (unfairly) compare the Leaf to econoboxes like the Versa.

As for fuel savings, it depends on how inefficient your current vehicle is and your electricity rates. People who live in areas of cheap electricity (e.g. Pacific Northwest), have free workplace charging and have an inefficient gasser of course can save a lot of $ on gas. I already drive a Prius, don't have cheap electricity and don't even spend $150/month on gas.

For those w/ripoff utilities and are already in their higher tiers (not me, but adding an EV will definitely push me past my baseline or force me to complicate things by switching to TOU based billing, to help keep costs down w/an EV), "fueling" an EV could be equal to or more expensive than a Prius.

It can be difficult to only have a Leaf or BEV w/the range similar to a Leaf as your only car, so getting a Leaf means paying more for insurance on a 2nd car and now having two cars that depreciate and need maintenance.
 
cwerdna said:
tcherniaev said:
So I was looking at some statistics today, and I noticed that average sales price of new vehicles in the United States was $30,750. Considering all available discounts and tax credits, most LEAFs sell for LESS THAN AVERAGE. Add fuel savings of around $150-200 per month on top of that, and LEAF becomes very inexpensive car to own.

So based on these affordability numbers we should call LEAF a people's car, a car that an 'average Joe' can easily afford. So why all this talk in the media about LEAF being an expensive vehicle that most can't afford? Statistically, most CAN afford to buy LEAF!
The upfront price is high. You don't get the tax credit until much later, assuming you qualify. You have to wait for any state incentive. You have to pay sales tax on the full amount. People frequently (unfairly) compare the Leaf to econoboxes like the Versa.

As for fuel savings, it depends on how inefficient your current vehicle is and your electricity rates. People who live in areas of cheap electricity (e.g. Pacific Northwest), have free workplace charging and have an inefficient gasser of course can save a lot of $ on gas. I already drive a Prius, don't have cheap electricity and don't even spend $150/month on gas.

For those w/ripoff utilities and are already in their higher tiers (not me, but adding an EV will definitely push me past my baseline or force me to complicate things by switching to TOU based billing, to help keep costs down w/an EV), "fueling" an EV could be equal to or more expensive than a Prius.

It can be difficult to only have a Leaf or BEV w/the range similar to a Leaf as your only car, so getting a Leaf means paying more for insurance on a 2nd car and now having two cars that depreciate and need maintenance.

These are all good points. However, in the United States AVERAGE residential electric rate is 11.8 cents per kwh. I don't have numbers for average fuel economy for light cars (and I don't want to mix large SUVs into this equation), but 28 mpg sounds about right. So, based on 1,200 miles per month (statistical average for the US) and $3.78 per gallon (today's average) total savings of around $100 per month is about right. My earlier statement was based more on my personal case. Still, $100 per month is $6,000 over 5 years.

As for rebates, leasing seems to best way to take advantage of these. I know that not everyone likes leasing, but it makes LEAF even more affordable. With current lease deals it is cheaper to lease LEAF than basic Honda Civic.
 
electrical rates will be a huge determining factor in how much you save in transportation costs but what is true is you will either save a decent amount of money or you will save a lot of money. you really cant lose. high electrical rates wont raise your maintenance costs will be small in comparison to any gas car.

and you have the potential to get lower rates. whether you have TOU available or if solar is an option for you, its very doable. with prices dropping fast and incentives still available, solar's payback time is dropping fast
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
electrical rates will be a huge determining factor in how much you save in transportation costs but what is true is you will either save a decent amount of money or you will save a lot of money. you really cant lose. high electrical rates wont raise your maintenance costs will be small in comparison to any gas car.

and you have the potential to get lower rates. whether you have TOU available or if solar is an option for you, its very doable. with prices dropping fast and incentives still available, solar's payback time is dropping fast

Electrical rates only matter that much in a few areas of the country. I pay 9.8 cents per KWH, and used around 300 KWH to charge my LEAF last month costing me less than $30 -- basically a rounding error as far as car operating costs are concerned.
Also, places with high electric rates also tend to have higher gas prices.
 
tcherniaev said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
electrical rates will be a huge determining factor in how much you save in transportation costs but what is true is you will either save a decent amount of money or you will save a lot of money. you really cant lose. high electrical rates wont raise your maintenance costs will be small in comparison to any gas car.

and you have the potential to get lower rates. whether you have TOU available or if solar is an option for you, its very doable. with prices dropping fast and incentives still available, solar's payback time is dropping fast

Electrical rates only matter that much in a few areas of the country. I pay 9.8 cents per KWH, and used around 300 KWH to charge my LEAF last month costing me less than $30 -- basically a rounding error as far as car operating costs are concerned.
Also, places with high electric rates also tend to have higher gas prices.

yep i average around $30 a month for electricity on my LEAF as well. my rates are slightly higher than yours but i chose green power program here which added 1.25 cents /kwh to my rates.

the average nationwide is only 12 cents so other than a few select areas (mostly in CA or NE) its pretty cheap to drive electric
 
It's not really this simple. One needs to know the battery life and the replacement cost to make a rational decision. Unlike modern ICE cars that have the obvious upfront cost, maintenance, and gas expenses with a lifespan or 100-200k miles, the LEAF appears to have a finite battery life: the time at which the battery needs to be replaced will depend on the individual's needs. Thus, there is the upfront cost, minimal costs from electricity, near zero maintenance, AND the battery cost:

Based on most of the extrapolated data from Nissan and this forum: most will agree that the battery will, on average (depending on ambient temperatures), have about 60-70% capacity at 50k miles: this is a range of 47 miles for a full charge to turtle (.65 x 73).. For some, this may actually be ok... for most, this represents a usable range of around 30 miles, and thus the battery would need to be replaced.

If the battery costs 12,000 (based on EV literature): it cost 24 cents per mile in addition to electricity costs for the past 50k miles
If the battery costs $5,000 (based on anecdotal reports for a refurb battery with exchange): it costs 10 cents per mile in addition to the electricity.

Since no one really knows the battery costs, it's sort of a guess: but one should be fully aware of the unique costs associated with a BEV.

On the other hand, if you lease, and don't drive too many miles, the above does not apply.
 
gaswalla said:
It's not really this simple. One needs to know the battery life and the replacement cost to make a rational decision. Unlike modern ICE cars that have the obvious upfront cost, maintenance, and gas expenses with a lifespan or 100-200k miles, the LEAF appears to have a finite battery life: the time at which the battery needs to be replaced will depend on the individual's needs. Thus, there is the upfront cost, minimal costs from electricity, near zero maintenance, AND the battery cost:

Based on most of the extrapolated data from Nissan and this forum: most will agree that the battery will, on average (depending on ambient temperatures), have about 60-70% capacity at 50k miles: this is a range of 47 miles for a full charge to turtle (.65 x 73).. For some, this may actually be ok... for most, this represents a usable range of around 30 miles, and thus the battery would need to be replaced.

If the battery costs 12,000 (based on EV literature): it cost 24 cents per mile in addition to electricity costs for the past 50k miles
If the battery costs $5,000 (based on anecdotal reports for a refurb battery with exchange): it costs 10 cents per mile in addition to the electricity.

Since no one really knows the battery costs, it's sort of a guess: but one should be fully aware of the unique costs associated with a BEV.

On the other hand, if you lease, and don't drive too many miles, the above does not apply.

Very good point. Lease is about the only way to go. One can do 36 month lease with 15k miles per year for less than $300 per month with nothing down. That is a pure steal.
 
tcherniaev said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
electrical rates will be a huge determining factor in how much you save in transportation costs but what is true is you will either save a decent amount of money or you will save a lot of money. you really cant lose. high electrical rates wont raise your maintenance costs will be small in comparison to any gas car.

and you have the potential to get lower rates. whether you have TOU available or if solar is an option for you, its very doable. with prices dropping fast and incentives still available, solar's payback time is dropping fast

Electrical rates only matter that much in a few areas of the country. I pay 9.8 cents per KWH, and used around 300 KWH to charge my LEAF last month costing me less than $30 -- basically a rounding error as far as car operating costs are concerned.
Also, places with high electric rates also tend to have higher gas prices.
Solar isn't free. TOU has the tradeoff the the rates outside the off-peak period are way more expensive.

See http://www.pge.com/tariffs/electric.shtml#RESELEC" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and http://www.pge.com/tariffs/electric.shtml#RESELEC_TOU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for more info. From http://www.pge.com/about/rates/rateinfo/rateoptions/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, E-1 (non-TOU) and E-6 (TOU) are options as well as possibly E-9. E-6 and E-9 make peak rates at tier 1 (baseline) as high as $0.30/kwh and can reach 0.54/kwh if you're at tier 5.

For my most recent electric bill, I used 253 kwh (I'm home all the time, since I'm not working) which was within my baseline (of 319 kwh for those 29 days) but with taxes and crap it came out to $34.30 or ~$0.1355/kwh. I'm currently on E-1 which is non-TOU.

I had some discussion about rates in my area w/someone else and http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=155519#p155519" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; was a post about what might happen to my rates.

OP or those w/cheap electricity ought to try plugging your total usage to http://www.pge.com/yourtiers/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. Put in 95136 zip code, select the appropriate answer for #3 and answer no for #4. You'll see how much of a rip PG&E is.

The above estimator is reasonably close for me ($32.89 for 253 kwh, so they seem to be excluding taxes and fees). If I add 300 kwh to make it 553 kwh, my estimated bill is $94.50 (I'm guessing this is w/o tax and fees), a delta of $56.11.
 
The Volt and Leaf are both a steal if you lease them. I really don't understand why GM and Nissan haven't caught onto this and started heavily advertising the lease rate. I've surprised a lot of people when I tell them that I pay less per month on my lease than they do for gasoline. So it is almost like I get a free car, the way I see it. Several people I know who drive large trucks to work (for no logical reason) actually pay a LOT more in gas per month than I do for my whole car + electricity to power it. I've told those people they could keep their big truck and lease a Leaf or Volt to drive to work and actually save money (assuming their insurance rates aren't too high) as long as they'd be willing to drive the EV to work. But they enjoy driving the big truck so much that they aren't willing to give it up as a daily driver.
 
cwerdna said:
See http://www.pge.com/tariffs/electric.shtml#RESELEC" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and http://www.pge.com/tariffs/electric.shtml#RESELEC_TOU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for more info. From http://www.pge.com/about/rates/rateinfo/rateoptions/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, E-1 (non-TOU) and E-6 (TOU) are options as well as possibly E-9. E-6 and E-9 make peak rates at tier 1 (baseline) as high as $0.30/kwh and can reach 0.54/kwh if you're at tier 5.

For my most recent electric bill, I used 253 kwh (I'm home all the time, since I'm not working) which was within my baseline (of 319 kwh for those 29 days) but with taxes and crap it came out to $34.30 or ~$0.1355/kwh. I'm currently on E-1 which is non-TOU.

I had some discussion about rates in my area w/someone else and http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=155519#p155519" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; was a post about what might happen to my rates.

OP or those w/cheap electricity ought to try plugging your total usage to http://www.pge.com/yourtiers/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. Put in 95136 zip code, select the appropriate answer for #3 and answer no for #4. You'll see how much of a rip PG&E is.

The above estimator is reasonably close for me ($32.89 for 253 kwh, so they seem to be excluding taxes and fees). If I add 300 kwh to make it 553 kwh, my estimated bill is $94.50 (I'm guessing this is w/o tax and fees), a delta of $56.11.

I just plugged my usage into the calculator and came up with $300 bill. That compares poorly with $105 I paid in Utah for 1150 kwh last month. Glad I don't live in PG&E area.
 
it is obvious that several factors are at play when considering TCO. its interesting someone says we will be looking at battery replacement at 50,000 miles when we have forum members who have over 53,000 miles and are a long way from a 30% loss. granted, he lives in WA which i am guessing will probably be known as the LEAF mileage state. add to that, cheap juice and ya, i find it hard to believe that people up here are not jumping all over those lease terms.

now, i have not been shopping the lease terms around here but all i can say is used LEAF prices are pretty high here. too many LEAFs selling for 24-25,000 (asking price that is) when mine was 28,000 after fed tax credit. not much of a drop in price there.

granted 2012's are more expensive but they do have CWP which does have value in this area.

when i leased i thought it would be a slam dunk answer as to keeping the LEAF (unlikely) or getting the 2014 version but its not that cut and dried any more. my residual is $15,000 and my battery is holding up pretty well. might be a pretty good deal to buy it out
 
We have about 3 folks with 50k miles and claiming good battery capacity, and over 100 folks with over 15% loss already. In fact, the number of people that have lost 3 capacity bars outnumber the people with 50k miles.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
electrical rates will be a huge determining factor in how much you save in transportation costs but what is true is you will either save a decent amount of money or you will save a lot of money. you really cant lose.

Disagree here, you can certainly lose financially with a Leaf.

As cwerdna pointed out, a gasoline Prius will cost about the same in fuel costs as electric costs in a PG&E area once you are in tier 3 or above. I calculated $85 for electricity based on 12000 miles a year, 3 miles per kWh, and a rate of 26 cents/kWh that the extra 4000 annual kWh would average to, vs my $88 for my Prius based on 12000 miles a year, 45 MPG on the Prius, and $4/gallon for gas.

And if you think I am exaggerating with the 26 cents kWh, the current top rate $0.33561 cents/kWh with E-1 summer, and $0.48653 for summer peak with E-6 TOU . I am on E-6 because of solar but right now mostly in tiers 1 to 3. But adding the EV would put me to the highest tier.

Oh, and PG&E changes its rates 4 times per year, and the top rate has been as high as 49 cents/kWh for non-TOU and 59 cents for TOU, as recently as 2 years ago.

Here is the PG&E electric rate history :
http://www.pge.com/nots/rates/tariffs/electric.shtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Sadly, I'm not exaggerating at all, there have been 8 new non-TOU schedules in the last 2 years, and another 8 new TOU schedules.
And each time PG&E creates new rates for both winter and summer. Half the rates these bureaucrats designed have never even taken effect before they were superceded !

Here is the non-TOU schedule for 2 years ago with 49 cents/kWh top rate. http://www.pge.com/nots/rates/tariffs/Res_100301-100531.xls" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
And the TOU schedule for 2 years ago. I was wrong, the top rate didn't go to 59 cents, but to 67.9 cents/kWh
http://www.pge.com/nots/rates/tariffs/ResTOU_100301-100531.xls" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And with the 5 decimals PG&E uses everywhere, it takes them E no less than 16 pages of computations to figure out the total of my electric bill every month.
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B1eSSO_7gwqeZVdHRER2bEtqcGs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Of course, anyone who is consistently hitting high tiers will figure out pretty quickly they need to get solar.
I got solar within 2 months of moving into my large home 2 years ago. But it was sized properly to reduce me to the low tiers, but not 0. But adding the EV charging now would put me back into the high tiers... So EV charging means adding more solar again. Hopefully by monday I will have my 12 additional PV panels up in addition to the existing 28. But they are not free.

Fueling/charging costs not necessarily the main issue, though.
Even if your electricity cost is less than your fueling cost, there are other factors that might be more important.

The monthly payment will be in favor of a new Leaf vs a new gasoline Prius, either if you lease the Leaf, or if you buy it and are able to take advantage of the federal tax credit yourself. But I doubt the $10k of incentives will last forever.

At this time, used Leafs are not really an option, since right now they cost the same or more than you can get them for new in California which is about $23k if you buy a new one with the full $10k of incentives - certainly doable for a new SV and possibly on a new SL too. But you can purchase a used gasoline Prius for much less than a new one. Things will change as the Leafs get older and the used ones drop in value.

Your insurance will also be less on a used Prius than on a used Leaf, since the Leafs have only been made for a couple years, Prius have been sold in the US since 2001.
 
madbrain said:
And with the 5 decimals PG&E uses everywhere, it takes them E no less than 16 pages of computations to figure out the total of my electric bill every month.
Wow. Your bill/statement is nuts and at least order or two of magnitude more complex than mine. I guess it's because you have solar (thus have net metering) and you're on TOU schedule vs. me w/no solar and E-1 (non-TOU) schedule. I'd guess I'd have to read a long document to decipher it.
 
cwerdna said:
Wow. Your bill/statement is nuts and at least order or two of magnitude more complex than mine. I guess it's because you have solar (thus have net metering) and you're on TOU schedule vs. me w/no solar and E-1 (non-TOU) schedule. I'd guess I'd have to read a long document to decipher it.

It is completely nuts, isn't it ?
Until now PG&E had been mailing the NEMS statement to me, but the print statement only had the first 2 pages, without the intermediate calculations, just the totals and the annual summary, and without any real way to figure out how they arrived at the totals from the kWh in each tier.

I didn't know that the NEM statement was also online until I called them last week and they told me where it was hidden. I just told them to stop wasting trees and no longer mail it to me.

The way they compute this is indeed insane, I still haven't figured it out exactly.
I have a spreadsheet that I put together in the summer that attempts to calculate the bill from the inputs - number of days, and number of kWh in each tier - and a reference to a separate sheet for the month.
My spreasheet is still off by a couple dollars over the last two years vs the actual bill.
If I have the inclination, I think I will spend time some day to try to make it match exactly what PG&E bills ...

IMO, the rate structure is ridiculous. With the TOU the bill is utterly unpredictable also - until you go on it, you just don't know how much of your usage will fall between each tier.
I'm very reluctant to switch from E-9 to E-6 for that reason.
My spreadsheet actually compares E-1 to E-6, but you can't compare E-6 and E-9 because you would need data for different hours.
And the meter only records data for one rate single rate schedule.

Speaking of the meter... When I bought the house 2 years, there was a brand new SmartMeter. But it wasn't networked because PG&E hadn't built the network yet. Then I put in solar. Then PG&E took the SmartMeter away and replaced it with a StupidMeter(TM), I mean a GE NetMeter.
And they have been sending a guy to read the meter manually each month.
And I learned they are billing me an extra 25 cents a day for this - which is buried somewhere in those 16 pages of calculations.

The reason they took the SmartMeter away from me, and never installed it for any solar customer, was that their SmartMeter backend billing system could not handle negative amounts! I wish I was kidding you ...

They apparently have fixed that backend issue finally now, but they have yet to put back the SmartMeter in, and it can't be soon enough ...
 
madbrain said:
Speaking of the meter... When I bought the house 2 years, there was a brand new SmartMeter. But it wasn't networked because PG&E hadn't built the network yet. Then I put in solar. Then PG&E took the SmartMeter away and replaced it with a StupidMeter(TM), I mean a GE NetMeter.
And they have been sending a guy to read the meter manually each month.
And I learned they are billing me an extra 25 cents a day for this - which is buried somewhere in those 16 pages of calculations.

The reason they took the SmartMeter away from me, and never installed it for any solar customer, was that their SmartMeter backend billing system could not handle negative amounts! I wish I was kidding you ...

They apparently have fixed that backend issue finally now, but they have yet to put back the SmartMeter in, and it can't be soon enough ...
I'd heard something like that re: Smart Meters and solar.

FWIW, for me, under My Usage > My Rates, they list cost estimates if I were to stay w/my current schedule or switch to 3 other choices: Time-of-Use + SmartRate™ (E6-Smart), Time-of-Use (E6), or Standard + SmartRate™ (E1-Smart). They also can give me a breakdown month by month about estimates costs for E1 vs. one of the others.

It claims I'll save w/all of them but the most with Time-of-Use + SmartRate™ (E6-Smart). I'll probably switch to that once we enter their "winter" period so I don't get hit by crazy high bills in "summer".

In comparison, these rates are cheap and simple: http://www.douglaspud.org/Service/2012RatesJuly12012.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (VERY cheap) and https://www.seattle.gov/light/accounts/rates/ac5_erps24.htm#rsc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. I don't anything about how their net metering works for solar.
 
gaswalla said:
We have about 3 folks with 50k miles and claiming good battery capacity, and over 100 folks with over 15% loss already. In fact, the number of people that have lost 3 capacity bars outnumber the people with 50k miles.
Sure, but that's not a great comparison given that very few people drive over 50,000 miles in less than two years, particularly in an EV with a sub-100-mile range. I suspect there will be FAR more LEAFs that last beyond 100,000 miles than succumb in under 30,000. It will be interesting to see what the mean battery miles at EOL turns out to be.

But clearly the battery life and replacement cost are significant in any EV TCO calculation.
 
adric22 said:
The Volt and Leaf are both a steal if you lease them. I really don't understand why GM and Nissan haven't caught onto this and started heavily advertising the lease rate. I've surprised a lot of people when I tell them that I pay less per month on my lease than they do for gasoline. So it is almost like I get a free car, the way I see it. Several people I know who drive large trucks to work (for no logical reason) actually pay a LOT more in gas per month than I do for my whole car + electricity to power it. I've told those people they could keep their big truck and lease a Leaf or Volt to drive to work and actually save money (assuming their insurance rates aren't too high) as long as they'd be willing to drive the EV to work. But they enjoy driving the big truck so much that they aren't willing to give it up as a daily driver.
The guy who likes to drive his huge F-350 with dual rear wheels as a commuter car is the same guy who comes barreling up behind me, flashes his lights, passes me only for me to come up behind him at the next light. That guy, he will never drive a Leaf! Rightfully so, he can drive what he wants, but he will also pay out the wazoo to keep it fueled.
So think about it, that guy pays a boatload for his truck, needs a paycheck to fill the tank, maintenance costs are tremendous, and you can't even park it without either taking up 2 spots or having the back end stick way out. (especially when that guy leaves his trailer hitch receiver on)
For every Leaf (Prius, Volt etc) owner, that guy still out numbers us by a huge margin. Or am I wrong?
 
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