Yeah, most likely given the documents and procedure below for the 2016 to 2017 30 kWh car update.
Charging tests also work, and are arguably the simpler method. You just need a metered charger, and to be aware of ~ 12% charging losses. I presume it is also easier to convince a seller to let their car be charged instead of driven 50 - 100 miles
---------GerryAZ wrote: ↑Mon Oct 08, 2018 5:14 amI am glad that Nissan chose to sell the LEAF in Arizona because I have been able to drive electric since 2011 without building my own conversion or spending a fortune for a Tesla. I suspect Nissan's testing at their AZ proving ground included lots of miles driven at highway speeds with frequent quick charges. That driving/charging pattern would minimize capacity loss compared to typical consumer use.LeftieBiker wrote:Amazing that they had that center, apparently used it for heat durability testing as well as overheat testing...and still dropped the ball so badly. It took how long? Less than a year? for the first AZ Leafs to start losing bars? Either they tested for just a few months and shrugged off the capacity loss at that point, or they made a really bad decision. They could, after all, have just not sold the Leaf in the three or four hottest US states, maybe excluding California...
Anyway, let's keep in mind that this is supposed to be a guide to the most critical things to evaluate when shopping for a used Leaf. How does the guide look right now?
Climate control on 2011 and 2012:
1. The minimum cabin temperature setting is 60 degrees F (15 C) so you cannot have ventilation without heat when ambient temperature drops below that.
2. The controller will sometimes energize the heating element when air conditioning is being used in moderate temperatures.
3. The temperature set point for climate control timer and remote activation is fixed at 77 degrees F (25 C) so the controller may activate heat when you want A/C or A/C when heat is desired if ambient temperature is near that setting.
Items 1 and 2 can be addressed by installing the plug-and-play heater control switch kit available online. For a while, there was a company that sold modified HVAC controllers to address item 1, but that internal modification did not prevent the heater from being activated with A/C as noted in item 2. Some technical owners made their own modifications (either temporary or permanent) to keep the heating element from being activated. I installed a temporary resistor to prevent heating element activation and would have ordered the plug/play kit if my 2011 had not met its untimely demise.