Desperately looking for gen2 battery adapter for gen1 Leaf

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I’m unfortunately not clear on the current status of the kit and part number.

https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/126060/NTB14-059c page 19 might prove interesting or discouraging. One may need to just swap all the modules.
 
That is super-useful, much appreciated cwerdna! Not sure if parts list mentioned there is complete - it included whole battery pack (295B0-9RB9D). All retrofit parts are just mounts, bolts, brackets and disconnect switch. Nothing for a wire that comes from car to battery.
 
No prob. Kit was unclear as it was discussed in https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=17168. But that was over 5 years ago and things may have changed.

If you look at posts by Cor at https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=21997, he's talking about swapping all the modules and some of the differences he's found in terms of the packs. If you don't want to read everything in that massive thread, just skip all the posts except Cor's.
 
cwerdna said:
No prob. Kit was unclear as it was discussed in https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=17168. But that was over 5 years ago and things may have changed.

If you look at posts by Cor at https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=21997, he's talking about swapping all the modules and some of the differences he's found in terms of the packs. If you don't want to read everything in that massive thread, just skip all the posts except Cor's.

I just swapped my battery from a 2011 to a 2011. However, the 2011 donor car had a retrofitted pack, so all mounting brackets and adapters were present.

My mechanic informed me that there was no electrical adapter or plugs. The only differences were in the mounting brackets, bolt hole positions, and the plastic covers that go under the body of the car. He said the bolts themselves were interchangeable. Electrically, everything just hooked right up.

Also keep in mind that there are two variants of the battery pack: With and without the battery heater. If this doesn't match between the cars, I believe you can't do a pack swap. You can tell if a heater is present as there's a 3rd plug in the battery pack:
https://images.hgmsites.net/med/nissan_100317355_m.jpg
(the above pack has all 3 plugs, 2 orange and 1 black, so it has the cold weather package with the battery heater)

If you can't find the mounting brackets, the way to workaround this is to open both packs and swap the modules as cwerdna suggested. If you do this, you MUST preserve all electronics and wiring brackets from the original pack. DO NOT swap anything except the battery modules themselves, or you will fry the battery controller and then you're hosed. The wiring harnesses changed between Gen1 and Gen2.
 
cwerdna said:
If you look at posts by Cor at https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=21997, he's talking about swapping all the modules and some of the differences he's found in terms of the packs.

I believe I've already read thru this, but worth trying again and extract main things here.
 
Lothsahn said:
I just swapped my battery from a 2011 to a 2011. However, the 2011 donor car had a retrofitted pack, so all mounting brackets and adapters were present.
You're lucky, I could not find such donor so far, all 11-12 batteries I see are from cars below 60k where Nissan replaces it by warranty.
Lothsahn said:
Electrically, everything just hooked right up.
Sounds like a dream!
Lothsahn said:
Also keep in mind that there are two variants of the battery pack: With and without the battery heater. If this doesn't match between the cars, I believe you can't do a pack swap. You can tell if a heater is present as there's a 3rd plug in the battery pack:
https://images.hgmsites.net/med/nissan_100317355_m.jpg
(the above pack has all 3 plugs, 2 orange and 1 black, so it has the cold weather package with the battery heater)

If you can't find the mounting brackets, the way to workaround this is to open both packs and swap the modules as cwerdna suggested.

I thought after 2013 all batteries comes with 3 plugs, isn't it?
Mounting brackets are not a problem, whole list from cwerdna's PDF cost less $200.
Swapping modules is known way, I'm looking for good repair shop here in Bay area or diy shop, but cell packs are heavy.
 
cwerdna said:
I’m unfortunately not clear on the current status of the kit and part number.
As you swapped the battery here in Bay Area, can you share the contact of a mechanic?
 
^^^
I have not. Have I ever said I have? If so, that'd be a mistake.

I leased a '13 for 2 years. It went back at end of lease. I own a 5/2013 built used '13. It is still on its original battery pack and is at 11 bars w/Leaf Spy SOH around 81 to 83%. The 12 volt was changed by the dealer for free under warranty as it bit the dust in Oct 2015.

I have no plans to engage in any battery swapping since I bought a '19 Bolt to replace it and be my only car. I've been halfheartedly trying to sell the aforementioned Leaf due to lack of time.
 
Andrey said:
I thought after 2013 all batteries comes with 3 plugs, isn't it?
Mounting brackets are not a problem, whole list from cwerdna's PDF cost less $200.
Swapping modules is known way, I'm looking for good repair shop here in Bay area or diy shop, but cell packs are heavy.

I believe that all US batteries after 2013 come with the battery warmer, but I'm not 100% sure. I know other regions in the world do lack it. I don't know if the battery pairing will work if there's a mismatch in the battery heater between the two packs.

The cell packs are heavy. I believe each stack is like 80-100 pounds. The battery pack itself is something like 650-800 pounds. That's why I chose to do a full pack swap instead of a cell swap. With a proper car lift and heavy duty lifting table, swapping the entire battery pack is much easier and safer than swapping cells. However, it does involve having the right mounting brackets and battery covers.

As long as you're prepared to do the electronics of the pairing (clearing codes with Leafspy and using the evsenhanced battery pairing tool), any shop capable of following simple instructions in the service manual and that has the tools to swap a transmission should be able to swap the battery. Essentially, the battery is just a big transmission swap--you disconnect the safety disconnect (floor between the rear seats inside the car), unplug the cables, remove the bolts, drop the battery, then reverse the process for the new battery.

But make sure you have LeafSpy and the battery pairing tool. Because once you do this, the car will display a turtle icon and refuse to go faster than 25 mph until it's re-paired.

Good luck!
 
cwerdna said:
^^^
I have not. Have I ever said I have? If so, that'd be a mistake.
I probably misread one of your previous posts, sorry. Still looking for qualified battery swap tech.
 
Lothsahn said:
The cell packs are heavy. I believe each stack is like 80-100 pounds. The battery pack itself is something like 650-800 pounds. That's why I chose to do a full pack swap instead of a cell swap. With a proper car lift and heavy duty lifting table, swapping the entire battery pack is much easier and safer than swapping cells. However, it does involve having the right mounting brackets and battery covers.
How did you deal with different power socket in battery and 3 instead of 2 sockets? Should I order the list from https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/126060/NTB14-059c and nothing else?

Lothsahn said:
As long as you're prepared to do the electronics of the pairing (clearing codes with Leafspy and using the evsenhanced battery pairing tool), any shop capable of following simple instructions in the service manual and that has the tools to swap a transmission should be able to swap the battery. Essentially, the battery is just a big transmission swap--you disconnect the safety disconnect (floor between the rear seats inside the car), unplug the cables, remove the bolts, drop the battery, then reverse the process for the new battery.
I tried to explain this to one repair shop, but they refused to do anything with electric car. It looked like they afraid of it. So looking for a good shop here in SV able to do this.
And how did you get evsenhanced pairing tool? I asked them and they seems to not sell it to me, only to repair shops.
Lothsahn said:
But make sure you have LeafSpy and the battery pairing tool. Because once you do this, the car will display a turtle icon and refuse to go faster than 25 mph until it's re-paired.

Good luck!
I have BT dongle and LeafSpyPro, only pairing tool is missing - asked you in previous part.
Paid the battery from Oregon, parts shop doesn't know anything on its SOH, only counting on it's low mileage and colder climate.

Thanks!
 
Andrey said:
Lothsahn said:
The cell packs are heavy. I believe each stack is like 80-100 pounds. The battery pack itself is something like 650-800 pounds. That's why I chose to do a full pack swap instead of a cell swap. With a proper car lift and heavy duty lifting table, swapping the entire battery pack is much easier and safer than swapping cells. However, it does involve having the right mounting brackets and battery covers.
How did you deal with different power socket in battery and 3 instead of 2 sockets? Should I order the list from https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/126060/NTB14-059c and nothing else?

Lothsahn said:
As long as you're prepared to do the electronics of the pairing (clearing codes with Leafspy and using the evsenhanced battery pairing tool), any shop capable of following simple instructions in the service manual and that has the tools to swap a transmission should be able to swap the battery. Essentially, the battery is just a big transmission swap--you disconnect the safety disconnect (floor between the rear seats inside the car), unplug the cables, remove the bolts, drop the battery, then reverse the process for the new battery.
I tried to explain this to one repair shop, but they refused to do anything with electric car. It looked like they afraid of it. So looking for a good shop here in SV able to do this.
And how did you get evsenhanced pairing tool? I asked them and they seems to not sell it to me, only to repair shops.
Lothsahn said:
But make sure you have LeafSpy and the battery pairing tool. Because once you do this, the car will display a turtle icon and refuse to go faster than 25 mph until it's re-paired.

Good luck!
I have BT dongle and LeafSpyPro, only pairing tool is missing - asked you in previous part.
Paid the battery from Oregon, parts shop doesn't know anything on its SOH, only counting on it's low mileage and colder climate.

Thanks!

My battery only has 2 sockets, because I got a 2011 warranty replaced battery to go in my 2011. You have a battery from a car with the cold weather kit. It may not be possible to do a pack swap the way you want--I don't know. I do know a cell swap will work.

Many repair shops are scared (and possibly rightly so) of electric vehicles. I had a very good relationship with a local mechanic who was willing to take a risk with the repair. After doing the repair, he happily stated he'd love to do any more I bring his way, as it was a nice change of pace, and an easy repair. A Nissan Dealership may also be willing to help--my local dealership was not. You will have to look around, possibly looking for shops that specialize in EV repairs, if there are any in your area. If he lives nearby, Cor may also be willing to help you. He's done 30+ cell swaps.

The Pairing tool I rented from someone in Kentucky, recommended by evsenhanced. They do not sell direct, as you stated.

I sent you a PM with more details.
 
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