Adding a 12 volt power source in hatch area for cooler operation.

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

webeleafowners

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 5, 2015
Messages
1,306
Location
Okanagan Valley British Columbia
Hey fellow leaflets. We will be travelling with one of those portable coolers. I have a little portable power pack but would like to be able to plug the cooler directly into the leaf. Short of running a power cable from the front 12 volt power source, is there a constantly powered 12 volt point somewhere in the back.

Thanks all.
 
I would think the cargo area light would have a constant 12v but not sure of what amperage, probably just run by small gauge wiring. Of course if the cooler drew less than 5a or so it may be OK.....I agree running a wire all the way from the front battery would be a bit of a pain.
 
If you get something to work let us know, some may want to emulate your "active cooling" solution. If it's a fan, you could try selling it as under a name like leaf blower lol.
 
There is the rear seat heater but I don’t know if that cycles due to thermostat or if it’s timer-based. I suspect the latter. But it could save some wire pulling if you could repurpose that wire and supply it constant 12v
 
LeftieBiker said:
I suggest a 12 volt accessory port splitter and a long accessory extension cord.

We have used this method a few times but the cord is a bit of a pain. We have a cooler bag that works pretty good but prefer a small DC compresser type cooler that doubles as a freezer. Also more efficient. We can keep shrimp frozen etc. Draws about 8 amps st 12 volts but can be plugged into 120 in the hotel etc. 1.1 cubic feet. But if we don’t need to freeze anything we just use the cooler bag.

I’ll snoop around with a meter and see what I can find.
 
webeleafowners said:
LeftieBiker said:
I suggest a 12 volt accessory port splitter and a long accessory extension cord.

.... but prefer a small DC compresser type cooler that doubles as a freezer. Also more efficient....
Do they still make compressor portable coolers? All I ever see for portables are the solid-state??(looks like an old T-3 transistor mounted to a heat sink) but every one I've used has barely worked, much prefer the compressor method :)
 
Fairly familiar with the wiring harnesses in that area since I added a backup camera to mine.

Both the left and right sides do have wiring harnesses from the front of the car, but none of the wires are particularly large and they are shared with other items, so I would avoid a high amp draw item like that in the back of the car.

I ran cabling along the ceiling (under the headliner, by the door frame) and it was quite easy. I would run dedicated wires for this project. I would go all the way across the ceiling, down the front a-pillar to the fuse panel that's to the left of the driver's foot. Then you could install a permanent 12V outlet, potentially with a high amperage rating. You could do a really slick install with a permanent 12V receptacle in the hatch area or you could install a high wattage inverter and a 110V outlet. :)
 
Lothsahn said:
Fairly familiar with the wiring harnesses in that area since I added a backup camera to mine.

Both the left and right sides do have wiring harnesses from the front of the car, but none of the wires are particularly large and they are shared with other items, so I would avoid a high amp draw item like that in the back of the car.

I ran cabling along the ceiling (under the headliner, by the door frame) and it was quite easy. I would run dedicated wires for this project. I would go all the way across the ceiling, down the front a-pillar to the fuse panel that's to the left of the driver's foot. Then you could install a permanent 12V outlet, potentially with a high amperage rating. You could do a really slick install with a permanent 12V receptacle in the hatch area or you could install a high wattage inverter and a 110V outlet. :)

What was it like pulling out the headliner.
 
jjeff said:
webeleafowners said:
LeftieBiker said:
I suggest a 12 volt accessory port splitter and a long accessory extension cord.

.... but prefer a small DC compresser type cooler that doubles as a freezer. Also more efficient....
Do they still make compressor portable coolers? All I ever see for portables are the solid-state??(looks like an old T-3 transistor mounted to a heat sink) but every one I've used has barely worked, much prefer the compressor method :)

Yep. Mostly for the marine world. Dometic makes ours but Engel is quite well known. They all use Danfoss compressors.
 
Do they still make compressor portable coolers? All I ever see for portables are the solid-state??(looks like an old T-3 transistor mounted to a heat sink) but every one I've used has barely worked, much prefer the compressor method


I've had a solid state cooler/freezer/warmer for quite a few years, now (got it in a Woot Bag O Crap!) and it does get quite cold - it just takes it about 15 minutes. If you need to open it a lot, or store much more than a lunchbox's worth, a compressor type would be better.
 
webeleafowners said:
Lothsahn said:
Fairly familiar with the wiring harnesses in that area since I added a backup camera to mine.

Both the left and right sides do have wiring harnesses from the front of the car, but none of the wires are particularly large and they are shared with other items, so I would avoid a high amp draw item like that in the back of the car.

I ran cabling along the ceiling (under the headliner, by the door frame) and it was quite easy. I would run dedicated wires for this project. I would go all the way across the ceiling, down the front a-pillar to the fuse panel that's to the left of the driver's foot. Then you could install a permanent 12V outlet, potentially with a high amperage rating. You could do a really slick install with a permanent 12V receptacle in the hatch area or you could install a high wattage inverter and a 110V outlet. :)

What was it like pulling out the headliner.

Oh, no no no no. Do not pull the headliner. Just pull out the rubber seal around each door at the top. You can feed the cables behind the headliner without disturbing it at all, right along each door frame, then down the A pillar. Then you put the rubber seal back in. Super simple.

Don't fully remove the rubber seal. There's no need to remove the bottom half of the rubber weatherstripping.
 
Back
Top