kolmstead wrote:Is turtle good enough, or do I need to push on to contactor disconnect?
Certainly going all the way to contactor disconnect would be best, but I don't think that level of accuracy is required since there is so little energy available once turtle kicks on, anyway.
kolmstead wrote:But I don't believe that Nissan would replace my car's battery based on that test.
No, certainly not without a fight, anyway.
fooljoe wrote:The problem with this method is that the overhead from charging is inconsistent.
The difference between 208/240V is pretty small, but it should be easy to compensate for.
One should charge on a station that can supply maximum current.
fooljoe wrote:all sorts of other factors like the pack's temperature, internal resistance, and so on.
Temperature can be compensated for, but it resistance doesn't vary by enough to matter at the charging rates.
Internal resistance of the pack is around 0.85 ohms when new at room temperature and around 1.15 ohms at 70% or so.
fooljoe wrote:Plus you'd then be relying on some third party gauge for power consumption, giving Nissan something to point the blame at. Using the efficiency and odometer on the dash may not be the most accurate measures, but if they're wrong that's Nissan's problem.
Obviously one would simply use their data as a starting point - Nissan can supply their own test procedure using their own calibrated test equipment for the final say. But hey, if you have a better idea that one can use to produce consistent results, let's hear it.
So far it seems that you're only option if that 4th bar just won't drop is to drive as inefficiently as possible around while QCing and hope that 4th bar drops before your warranty expires.