Brakes Fail upon Powering On

[ydrape]

Your estimate is in the order of the repair made under warranty for my car.

If you can stop the car without having the bad noise, your problem is probably in the category «Intermittent».

You don't have to pay for repairing a defect for wich Nissan has aknowledged and proceeded to a recall (in Canada).

I think the recall was also made in USA.

Be safe!

[bobkart]

It will still allow you to drive normal otherwise. The brake will still somewhat work with increased effort and pedal travel. You will just look like an amateur.

Then it looks like my intelligent brake controller hasn't failed. There's no detectable change in braking behavior after getting the car back, including no increased effort or pedal travel. I think the last 'proof' is the additional Regen bubbles I can get on a gradual downhill slope by applying light brake pedal pressure . . . I just got back from confirming this to be the case.

[bobkart]

If you can stop the car without having the bad noise, your problem is probably in the category «Intermittent».

Agreed. But that leaves out the root cause of the problem (intermittent or not). From what I've read in this (and other related) threads, a failing 12V battery can trigger the problem, or at least symptoms of it. CANBUS flakiness brought on by a failing 12V battery can lead to DTCs that suggest the ABS (or Intelligent Brake Controller) has failed, when it actually hasn't. Distinguishing between actual failure and only apparent failure is key, and my position at this time is that, if at any time the ABS/IBC can be shown to be functioning, that strongly suggests ('proves'?) that the part hasn't actually failed. Of course I mean 'failed' in the sense that the state can't be reversed back to 'not failed' except by repair or replacement of the part in question. I welcome counterarguments to that position, as it's not something anyone would want to be wrong about.

[GerryAZ]

Bobkart,

You should be fine with a 2016 (with a new 12V battery). A weak 12V battery will not maintain sufficient voltage during the startup process to keep all of the control and communication modules functioning properly even though it may not test really bad. The 2015's did have some intelligent brake controller issues and I eventually had mine replaced (under the aftermarket extended warranty that I purchased when I bought the car) after getting tired of periodically resetting the DTC's and disconnecting/reconnecting the 12V battery to restore normal operation. It eventually got to the point of happening at least once a month before I had the intelligent brake controller (includes the master cylinder) replaced. I saw the dealer invoice that was close to $3,000 so the aftermarket warranty paid for itself.

Note for reference: The hydraulic brakes still work without electric assist, but the pedal will get close to the floor (may feel like it is on the floor because the pedal becomes really hard to press) and require much higher effort without assist. Also, there was a recall on the 2015 intelligent brake controller that was related to cold weather (just a software/firmware update).

[ydrape]

Is the recall released yet? I paid out of pocket and I'm wondering if I can be refunded

You can check here.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

[bobkart]

You should be fine with a 2016 (with a new 12V battery).

Great news; thanks Gerry!