Is it possible to adjust transition from regen to friction brake (lurch during an otherwise smooth stop with 2011 Leaf)

[OakLeaf]

Stole from another thread, but it works for me, I do this about once a month.

Grabby at high or low speeds? There's a (temporary?) fix if it happens at low, which is: Turn off traction control, inch forward, hold and press down the brakes FULLY for about 30 seconds. That's it. Mine used to be super grabby on/off style at low speeds, but now they're normal.

Our 2012 has had this issue for years as well and this trick cures it for a while.

What seems to bring the bad behavior back is when the traction control kicks in while traveling over bumpy surfaces where one wheel will leave the road surface and spin separate from the other tire, such as when going over a pothole, manhole cover or in particular for me, this one set of railroad tracks. Traction control events due to simple slippage as on ice or snow do not seem to cause this braking issue.

[Valdemar]

Wasn't there a TSB about it and a corresponding ECU update?

[LeftieBiker]

Wasn't there a TSB about it and a corresponding ECU update?

Yes, but it may have been for the 2013+ cars. I don't remember for sure.

[Valdemar]

Wasn't there a TSB about it and a corresponding ECU update?

Yes, but it may have been for the 2013+ cars. I don't remember for sure.

I had it applied on 2011 and it brought an improvement, but it is not a complete cure. My brakes are grabby every now and then up to this day.
viewtopic.php?t=10239

[Robroy]

I've had exactly the same problem since I bought my leaf 2 years ago, a problem that the dealership mechanics always denied So I decided to take the brakes apart myself and have a look. What I found was locked up brake pads owing to fact that the showroom mechanics don't actually service the brakes, they 'check' them, meaning they only look at the wear of the pads and discs. So my advise would be to get a proper service done on your brakes, either by yourself, or by a trusted local mechanic, because the dealership service is a rip off.

[Marktm]

Periodically, my 2012 will start "lurching" during braking - especially when just enough braking is applied to maximize regen. At times, the final "stop" of braking also grabbed excessively - only during the final few feet of stopping. The U1511 0108 and U1232 0108 both had been thrown.

Anecdotally;
I tried the "put the brake to floor for 30 seconds" technique and it did seem to help the "grab" at stopping, but no affect on the surge/lurge at speed. I then measured the settled 12 volt system voltage at 12.4 volts - very low for a FLA battery - so definitely in need of an external recharge. Over last weekend, I set up 2, 2 amp chargers and let them charge. I finished with a 15 amp (40 year old) charger for a day. The result is NO SURGE, NO LURCH - yet. No "grab" either. At first sign of any return surge, I'll measure the settled voltage again, and recharge again. We'll see

[powersurge]

I have never heard about a "brake recalibration" It is not an electrical or computer thing....

I am concerned that you switch from drive to neutral every block... There is no need to play with the transmission like that.

If you have a 2012, you should have the brake fluid changed an make sure that the front and rear rotors are smooth and not pitted or scratched.

If there is a lot of scraping on the rotor, you could put on new ones, but that will be $300-400.

I say tolerate that your car is getting old.... Like you...

[69800]

I replace the rotors and problem solved

[powersurge]

I replace the rotors and problem solved

That's what I do. $40-50 per rotor and a little labor

Most people have to plan that replacing rotors will cost $$$

[Marktm]

Not wanting to start a "lurch" war, but I've had years of Chevy Suburban bad/warped rotors and know exactly how that "cycle" feels - at essentially every braking event above certain speeds. The regen/braking "lurch" of my Leaf is very different and distinctive as it cycles at much less frequency than a warped rotor. Again, it's anecdotal, but twice I've been able to completely eliminate the "lurch" by charging up the 12 volt system - and totally eliminates the problem - for a while!

How that regen "lurch" is generated - no idea