Tracking down ground fault error

[cje]

danbertolet- the DIY version of ALLDATA $20.00 very useful to learn operation and reference error codes.
Newbie myself so also trying to get a handle on what can be done without paying for diagnosis that may or may not be accurate.
Appreciate any updates that you can share.

[danbertolet]

Would it work to rule out the 12V battery if I cleared all faults, set up a jump, and while it has 14V from the other car, try the 120V trickle charger to see if it still shuts down and triggers the same fault code?

For reference:
P0AA6 00C0 EV/HEV Hybrid Batt Volt Sys Isolation EVC-157

[Nubo]

Would it work to rule out the 12V battery if I cleared all faults, set up a jump, and while it has 14V from the other car, try the 120V trickle charger to see if it still shuts down and triggers the same fault code?

For reference:
P0AA6 00C0 EV/HEV Hybrid Batt Volt Sys Isolation EVC-157

It would absolutely rule out 12V supply problems, but it's unlikely to help. That fault means the vehicle has detected a voltage leak between the high-voltage battery and ground. The service manual lists the possible causes as:
- High voltage harness or connectors
- electric compressor
- PTC elements heater
- traction motor
- On-board charger
- Li-ion battery
- DC/DC J/B

As you might imagine, troubleshooting all that is a chore and involves potential exposure to high voltage. As the service manual notes: "Touching high voltage components without using the appropriate protective equipment will cause electrocution"

[nlspace]

That is a good idea to eliminate the aux battery as a culprit.

If that fails, then you could disconnect the HV connection to the PTC electric heater and retry; then d/c the HV connection to the electric A/C compressor and retry. Those are a couple of common items to have faults and are easy to check. All the other items in the troubleshooting list are more difficult to access.

12V: disconnect the aux battery from the car and make sure all cells have the plates covered and add distilled water if necessary; charge up and hold at 14.4 to desulfate the plates and get a full charge. Take it off charge and wait 1 hour with no load connection, If the aux doesn't read 12.8 then it is suspect. Or measure the specific gravity. Any added water gets turned into sulfuric acid during charging. If the plates are too sulfated then the damage is beyond the point of recovery. i use a Yuasa 1A charger to provide the 14.4 cycle after bulk charging with either a 3A or 10A dumb charger for larger batteries; i've tested many and it is the best and most accurate for voltage.

[danbertolet]

Thanks nlspace.

Can you point me to instructions on how to disconnect the HV connectors for the electric heater and A/C compressor?

On another thread a user said that the A/C low on freon can trigger error codes. Have you ever heard this?

My 12V is brand new as of 6 days ago. It has been draining little by little as I've been messing with the car, now reads 12.1V with car off, drops to 11.7 with it on. I'm assuming it's still in good shape and should take a charge. I don't have a charger so I'll use my other car to jump it. How long would you expect it would take with 14V from the other car (running) to give it a good charge?

[coulomb]

I don't have a charger so I'll use my other car to jump it. How long would you expect it would take with 14V from the other car (running) to give it a good charge?

Perhaps now is a good time to get a charrger. With a jump cable, I don't think you can count on more than very roughly 20A into the low battery, so it would still take about 2 hours to charge from flat (and 12.2V with no load is very flat). The actual time depends on so many things, like the quality of your jumper leads (some are more plastic than copper), how good the connection is at both ends, etc.

[Stanton]

Perhaps now is a good time to stop chasing what is obviously not a 12v issue before the OP electrocutes himself!
Sorry, but these are the sort of things you need to pay a shop/dealer/whatever to fix (as painful as that may be).

[nlspace]

Perhaps now is a good time to stop chasing what is obviously not a 12v issue

Perhaps you are an expert at diagnostics, troubleshooting and repairs, so i would like to hear your basis and evidence for such a conclusion.

From the limited data that i have read it seems that now there really is an auxillary battery issue which must be corrected before any additional troubleshooting is possible.

12V is brand new as of 6 days ago. It has been draining little by little as I've been messing with the car, now reads 12.1V with car off, drops to 11.7 with it on.

[Nubo]

...
On another thread a user said that the A/C low on freon can trigger error codes. Have you ever heard this?...

I don't know if low freon would trigger that code, but I do know the electric compressor requires a specific lubricating oil that maintains its dielectric properties under high voltage. If someone "topped off" the refrigerant with a product containing the wrong oil that could cause problems.

[LeftieBiker]

Perhaps now is a good time to stop chasing what is obviously not a 12v issue before the OP electrocutes himself!

With 13 volts...?