Nissan Leaf 2013 - Problems with startup sequence
- Thread starter andresol
- Start date
Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:
Here is my theory: the 12 volt battery had failed. When you installed the new one, it wasn't anywhere near fully charged. You do something*, or the car has a glitch that causes, the 12 volt battery to suffer a net loss of charge. The car charges it up enough under some circumstances, but not all. I suggest you fully charge the 12 volt battery with an external charger, then check the resting voltage (car off for 30 minutes or more) of that battery a week later. Post what you find here.
* Most commonly, this would be leaving the car plugged in for long periods when it isn't charging. This can drain the 12 volt battery.
* Most commonly, this would be leaving the car plugged in for long periods when it isn't charging. This can drain the 12 volt battery.
I have been charging the 12v battery regularly with an external charger to make sure that is not the source of the problem. The voltage of the 12v battery reads about 13.6v even after multiple days. The car is also rarely left with the charger in more than necessary. My guess is that there is a 12v error somewhere that triggers the warning lights, but I do not think it is connected to the actual battery. Since I've found corrosion inside actual electrical modules that use lower voltage, I'm afraid that this is a more widespread issue throughout the 12v system. However, I'm not sure, and really hope that is not the case. I can not afford having the car at the dealership having to pay for them to not solve the problem either...so I would rather test my luck here.
Cold temperature reduces current flow, so this story sounds like combination of temperature, resistance to flow (corrosion) and perhaps a borderline 12v battery.
OP has done a lot for the corrosion issue, so what's easily left is to install a new 12v and hope that is enough. I've been told that AGM batteries have lower internal resistance than other PbA, so that type should provide a little more current. He could also try an LFP, since they mostly sit at 12.8 volts
OP has done a lot for the corrosion issue, so what's easily left is to install a new 12v and hope that is enough. I've been told that AGM batteries have lower internal resistance than other PbA, so that type should provide a little more current. He could also try an LFP, since they mostly sit at 12.8 volts
andresol said:
Your reasoning is sound. Barring any unreasonable drain on the 12 volt battery, it does seem like maybe it's a poor connection or two, or a stuck relay, in the 12 volt system.
knightmb
Well-known member
Any way to post up pictures of the corrosion that you found. I can visually almost see what you mean by the corrosion moving down the positive terminal but my memory is a little fuzzy from my own 2013 if anything looks worse than it should be, if that makes any sense... :?andresol said:
Also, have you owned the vehicle for a while and this just happened or did you buy it recently used? The only reason I ask is that all this corrosion everywhere that you are finding almost makes it sound like someone has been driving it underwater for fun. Yes, I have seen this videos of the "Leaf Submarine" :lol:
cwerdna
Well-known member
^^^
Yeah. Great question. Was it used? Was it possibly a flood damaged vehicle before?
Yeah. Great question. Was it used? Was it possibly a flood damaged vehicle before?
If any of the various control modules (computers) have low supply voltage, they can cause CAN Bus communication errors and cause other modules to lock up. The DTC's you read and cleared with Leaf Spy and by disconnecting the 12V battery are typical for a weak 12V battery. Your 12V battery voltage sounds OK now, but you will need to solve all of the corroded/loose connection issues throughout the 12V system to completely resolve your issues. One connection to check that is not obvious is the body ground connection of the 12V negative cable. It looks like a clip just holding the cable in place on the fender by the battery, but is actually a ground connection. Remove the bolt and clean the threads in the body as well as the bolt and the terminal. Also check to make sure there is not corrosion inside the crimped connection to the stranded wire.
Nubo
Well-known member
GerryAZ said:
#1 on ensuring a clean ground connection. A marginal ground connection seems to fit some of the behaviors pretty well. How extensive is the corrosion problem? Do other things in the engine bay seem unusually corroded or rusted, or is it just in the vicinity of the 12V battery? Any evidence there was ever water in the cabin?
Not sure but I'd guess the "T/M transmission failure pertains to the telematics unit. You could try pulling the fuse for that guy in case it's putting garbage on the CAN bus.
The T/M transmission failure message is probably due to power supply issues for the control module that monitors the shift lever and controls the servo for the PARK pawl. I had that error message intermittently when a small relay which provides power to that module was failing in my 2011.
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