Extending range of 24kWh Leaf with LeafBox

[VitaminJ]

I bought a LeafBox a few months ago but I decided to sell it recently. Basically it didn't give me any more range. Really I didn't notice the glide mode pedal dead zone to be any bigger than when using the factory programming nor did I like the linear throttle. Driving in regular mode felt horrible because even with the smallest foot movement the car would lurch forward. I drove in ECO the whole time because of that. In ECO the car is basically the same as stock, really I did not notice any difference. Maybe 3 or 4 more kw of regen when not using the brake pedal but otherwise no difference. I drove with it over several weeks just using LeafBox and then I started swapping between stock and LeafBox. Now I am 100% stock again and getting just as good of mi/kwh as usual and I can drive in normal D, which I prefer, and for me makes gliding easier. I live in Colorado and there is just tons of elevation change everywhere I drive so if it was going to help me it definitely should have. As usual, the biggest determining factor is how you drive the car. For me I am able to drive more efficiently without this gizmo.

[wehey]

I guess it’s down to the individual and the way you drive.
I’m getting the same miles/kWh now, in November, than I was in August

[VitaminJ]

I guess it’s down to the individual and the way you drive.
I’m getting the same miles/kWh now, in November, than I was in August

I bet if you got back to stock your efficiency will stay the same LeafBox does have an added benefit of making you think more about your driving efficiency which makes you end up driving more efficiently. There is nothing LeafBox does that cannot be replicated with a completely stock Leaf, except maybe for the early 2011 and 2012 cars.

[red77hunter]

Today I just installed leafbox unit, I have a 2011 leaf with 50k miles and 9 bars on the original battery.


Wish me luck! I report back.

Bret

[wehey]

I bought a LeafBox a few months ago but I decided to sell it recently. Basically it didn't give me any more range. Really I didn't notice the glide mode pedal dead zone to be any bigger than when using the factory programming nor did I like the linear throttle. Driving in regular mode felt horrible because even with the smallest foot movement the car would lurch forward. I drove in ECO the whole time because of that. In ECO the car is basically the same as stock, really I did not notice any difference. Maybe 3 or 4 more kw of regen when not using the brake pedal but otherwise no difference. I drove with it over several weeks just using LeafBox and then I started swapping between stock and LeafBox. Now I am 100% stock again and getting just as good of mi/kwh as usual and I can drive in normal D, which I prefer, and for me makes gliding easier. I live in Colorado and there is just tons of elevation change everywhere I drive so if it was going to help me it definitely should have. As usual, the biggest determining factor is how you drive the car. For me I am able to drive more efficiently without this gizmo.

It doesn’t sound like yours was set up or working right.
Mine is nothing like you describe??

[VitaminJ]

It doesn’t sound like yours was set up or working right.
Mine is nothing like you describe??

Ok! Describe yours!

[NickBull]

Personally I'd be very interested in a version that just increases the power by 10kw or so without the other functions....after all, driving an EV isn't just about range, it should be fun too!

[powersurge]

I have seen many comments about this range increasing box. Overall, electric power and range is simple physics, which will always add up the same.

No gadget is really going to change much because there is no perpetual motion machine. Just like diet pills that "block" all the calories from being absorbed.. not possible.

[Supersleeper]

LOL, so you are saying there's no difference between friction breaking and regenerative breaking and optimizing when the two are used?

Also, FWIW, this leafbox also lets you take advantage of your current momentum i.e. neutral with so much as a simple lift of the foot from the accelerator. If you use the shift lever there's like a 2-3 second delay to get N. Might I also remind you that carried momentum is the MOST efficient you can get. Not regenerative breaking. Therefore, the faster you can switch to neutral to carry your momentum as far as you can before needing to break and or accelerate, the more efficient you will be.

I, for one, can't wait until I have the cash to put down on one of these units. I'm constantly switching between D, ECO, and N depending on my driving conditions, and I'd much rather just use the accelerator pedal to do all that. I just don't have the cash to blow on it right now.

[cliff]

If you use the shift lever there's like a 2-3 second delay to get N.

This can be improved a little, If going fast enough, one can get immediate neutral by shifting to reverse.