Drive train is using multiple kW. Headlights are using less than a hundred watts. At 60 MPH, less than a 1% error in measuring the drive train power would be the headlight power. There are no meters measuring this, so either use an estimate or you need to add instrumentation to the car.dmacarthur wrote: ↑Sun Nov 10, 2019 3:35 pmSorry, meant to say "include" external electrical draws, because my miles/KWH drops significantly at night, in the cold, and with winter tires. I would just like to ba able to see the extra drain in real time: how much, exactly, is the heat element or the headlights using?
DaveinOlyWA wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:16 amGentler acceleration will reduce degradation of the pack. We have a LEAFer who has 135,000 miles on his 2015 and LESS than halfway to losing his first capacity bar. He shuns the freeway to take country roads with speed limits of 50-55 mph. He charges to 100% and QC's twice daily to make his commute.Birillo wrote: ↑Fri Oct 11, 2019 7:40 pmHi, new to this forum, just doing some pre-reading before my probable Leaf purchase. Currently I have a Volt but I suffer psychological harm every time the ICE kicks in.
I've seen it proposed that lower acceleration getting up to highway speed will improve efficiency. From an kinetic energy perspective it should not matter. Is there some inefficiency in energy used when there is a higher power draw from the battery?
There is a higher resistance factor for higher power but from what I can tell, its pretty negligible. DK how regen works in Volt but I drive in B mode which is high regen and try to anticipate traffic and usually never touch my brakes unless I come to a full stop.
Thanks for the responses. Sounds like there is no real efficiency gain from lowering acceleration, although there are other advantages.
I'm not sure where you get that conclusion. Lowering acceleration will result in real efficiency gains.
Why is that?