First cold weather "near-fail" experience

This is my first winter with the Leaf. I read that cold weather reduces range, especially if you run the heat. Yesterday I decided to try a 104-mile trip. It was fairly cold, dropping from 20 to 10 degrees during the time I was travelling.

The battery was fully topped off when I left (this is the 40kWh). I was in Eco mode. I had to run a few quick errands, maybe 6 miles total, before actually hitting the road. Much to my surprise, after 53 miles we were down to 50% (mostly on 2-lane state highway at 60mph). I stopped and quick-charged up to 75%, then continued on the next leg of the trip. This was also 2-lane state roads, though not 60mph all the way, some stretches were too curvy or bumpy. In any case, when I was approaching my destination I was down to 8% and the battery warning light came on.

Although I probably could have made it, I decided to play it safe and stop at a nearby charger (which didn't work! but fortunately there was another a few blocks away). That was a little nerve racking.

Really surprised me how little range I had. Ran the heat intermittently to defrost the window, but it was on 68 degrees with low fan, and probably was off 75% of the time. There were three people in the car and a moderate amount of gear.

I did realize at one point that I had been driving for about 20 miles at 60mph in B mode. Normally I just use that for deceleration. What's the effect of driving in B mode at highway speed? Seems like not a good idea, but I see from some Google searches that some Leaf owners do this deliberately.

It was a good experiment and teaches me to be cautious with range in winter. Definitely not a good feeling to have that low battery light go on and start wondering if you're going to stall out somewhere. Fortunately it all worked out fine.

My 2016 SL (30 kwh) LEAF shows about a 1:1 ratio between miles and charge percentage in the winter. I would have expected more miles for your 50% of charge used. In my mind the heater must be the reason you were 1:1 in a car with a larger battery. My car estimates about 121 miles in summer and about 98 in winter (this is my first year with the car). But running the heater takes that down several miles of range. I estimate overall about a 35%+ loss of range. So, yes, estimate cautiously in winter.

Sue C
Iowa

The low temperatures explain the high heater drain and poor range. Between the heat pump (if present) not being much use at those temps, lower battery efficiency, and the tires being stiffer, range really takes a huge hit below about 30F, and especially below about 20F. The air resistance is even higher in the cold. Inflate your tires to 40psi for Winter driving, use 'partial recirculate' mode, and slow down as much as possible without obstructing traffic. If you have a 240 volt charging station, preheat the car before leaving.

Trim?

Sounds likely wind was a factor. What was your average miles/kwh? Or did you reset it before the trip? With that many in the car, defrost will be an issue as well.

The real issue is relying on the dash to give you accurate range info because... well, it doesn't. It wants you to stop and charge well before you really need to. Now, if on the road, not that much of a big deal but if it has you thinking you have to make a stop a few miles from home to avoid walking, it then becomes a major inconvenience and stressful over a likely non issue.

When I run heat, I notice that even a little is enough to break the chill so I always run heat/defrost at 61º. I found it made little difference in initial power usage but the power ramp down happened much quicker and I saw no real difference in my comfort level or cold tolerance.

As far as B mode;

B mode dampens the motor response to pedal movement and increases regen levels. Its a benefit if you are at a relatively stable power level as it helps smooth out the power spikes you would see in D mode.

It is a detriment if you are a "go/no go" type of driver. What I mean by that is people who constantly accelerate and brake in an ICEer. Now in an EV that would mean seeing very high levels of regen frequently (more than 2 pips or so) So steady foot means B mode will be best for range.

Jittery foot means D mode is better. In the grand scheme of things; your goal for best efficiency is continuous power levels or at least a power level with the smallest variance you can muster. B mode makes this easier to achieve. Your aim is to drive between zero and 2-3 power segments w/o any regen or braking (obviously) Now achieving that goal is all but impossible in most cases but the closer you get to that, the further you will go.

I will second what Dave said. Constant power (not speed) is the key. You can significantly outperform the sticker range (in summer) and come close in winter with:
1. Tires at 44psi (a bit lower if on ecopias)
2. Constant power minimizing regen in highway
3. Minimal heat beyond seat and steering wheel heaters.
4. Keeping it under 65 knots (I say knots only partially satirically, because speed relative to the wind is more important than speed relative to the ground)

Megunticook said:

In any case, when I was approaching my destination I was down to 8% and the battery warning light came on.

Although I probably could have made it, I decided to play it safe and stop at a nearby charger (which didn't work! but fortunately there was another a few blocks away). That was a little nerve racking.

Click to expand...

On the 40 kWh Leafs, when it says 8%, the actual SoC is probably 18%. If you don't have Leafspy and a dongle, you should get it.

Triggerhappy007 said:

On the 40 kWh Leafs, when it says 8%, the actual SoC is probably 18%. If you don't have Leafspy and a dongle, you should get it.

Click to expand...

I have LeafSpy and a dongle but haven't used it to check SoC yet. Sounds like I probably could've made it to my destination, which was maybe 5 miles up the road when the LBWL came on. But that was a first for me and I didn't want to take a chance, not knowing how much range I had left. Had a couple kids in the car, it was a frigid night, a breakdown on the side of the road not a good scenario.

But I will try using LeafSpy if I ever find myself in that spot again (hopefully not but you never know).

If you do run the batteries down all the way, is the only solution to get towed to a charger? Or are there portable roadside chargers?

Interestingly, on the way home yesterday my range was much better. But it was 20-30 degrees warmer.

Megunticook said:

...If you do run the batteries down all the way, is the only solution to get towed to a charger? Or are there portable roadside chargers?

Click to expand...

I think I've seen a picture of such apparatus, but the current reality is that it's bound to be quicker and cheaper for them to pull your vehicle onto a roll-back truck and transport it home or to a charging station.

Megunticook said:

Triggerhappy007 said:

On the 40 kWh Leafs, when it says 8%, the actual SoC is probably 18%. If you don't have Leafspy and a dongle, you should get it.

Click to expand...

I have LeafSpy and a dongle but haven't used it to check SoC yet. Sounds like I probably could've made it to my destination, which was maybe 5 miles up the road when the LBWL came on. But that was a first for me and I didn't want to take a chance, not knowing how much range I had left. Had a couple kids in the car, it was a frigid night, a breakdown on the side of the road not a good scenario.

But I will try using LeafSpy if I ever find myself in that spot again (hopefully not but you never know).

If you do run the batteries down all the way, is the only solution to get towed to a charger? Or are there portable roadside chargers?

Interestingly, on the way home yesterday my range was much better. But it was 20-30 degrees warmer.

Click to expand...

All your questions would be mute if you were using LEAF Spy. This is one of the biggest reasons I got it in the first place. It allows you to use all your range with confidence.

As far as running the batteries all the way down? Don't do it. LEAF Spy will allow you to adjust your driving well before your pack is low if you are in that situation.

But the situation you described above isn't one of them. You had more than enough to make it home. On my 24 and 30 kwh LEAFs, I was getting home with less than 10 GID (which is at least 10 miles beyond your situation) at least 1-4 times a week FOR YEARS. LEAF Spy is the only way I could get away with it.

All your questions would be mute if you were using Leaf Spy.

Click to expand...

I believe the word you are looking for is "moot."

Grounded For Life (2001) s02e03 Episode Script
204 - Don't Let Me Download


So, in conclusion, we should never take any of our 4 freedoms for granite.
Thank you.
Lily, did you say, "for granite"? Yes, for granite.
As in, "don't take anything for granite.
" Don't assume something's set in stone when it might not be.
I believe the expression is "for granted.
" Class? Yeah.
Heh.
Well, Sister Helen, my report is over, so your point is mute.
I believe, Lily, my point is "moot.
" Moot! Who says "moot"? Uh-huh.

Read more: https://www.springfieldspringfield.co.uk/view_episode_scripts.php?tv-show=grounded-for-life-2001&episode=s02e03

Click to expand...

Having owned a 2015 leaf for 4 winters and a 2019 Leaf S Plus
This winter it a simple fact these Great cars don't like the cold weather
and when you put the heat on don't expect going long distance
It eats up the power quickly so wear Flannel lined pants and warm shirt and boots
no heat just the seats and steering wheel and when the windows fog up a short
blast of defrost and heat to your feet will work this is just part of owning a leaf
so us colder weather climate guys find there own ways to go farther and stay warm
under 30 Degrees who knows maybe some day they will be able to cure this

Not a cure, but the heatpump (optional now in the SV, standard in the SL) greatly cuts power consumption in milder Winter weather noticeably, down to about 25F. From there to about 15F it still helps but not a lot.