ltbighorn
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2015 5:24 am
Delivery Date: 08 Nov 2015
Location: SF Bay Area

Re: Hacking the VSP Box (Noise Maker)

Mon Apr 17, 2017 2:13 pm

Oh, no, you are right. Sorry, I'm so used to everything center-dash related being completely different on the nav units. Might give it a try then. As ironmanco pointed out, it'd be nicer I think to keep the center-dash functionality untouched and use a button blank to the left of the steering wheel, but this is still an interesting option.

One thing that concerned me:

In this post: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.p ... 40#p486624
Decimus wrote: WIRE SIZES:
Make sure the lead (wires) are 18 gauge or bigger. Or something that doesn't burn with a 10-Amp load. Small wires will burn, large wires will pop the fuse. Secondly, the wires have to be wrapped with electrical tape from head to toe, leaving no gaps. The one in the image above is already coated with gray insulation - that's good. This is to help with fire control.
It seems to be like if we're relying on the resistance of the wire to control the current ("large wires will pop the fuse"), that's just asking for trouble/possible fire. The maximum current should be controlled by a resistor, or some other device in the loop, not the wire gauge. Did I miss here as well?

Decimus
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2017 7:08 am
Delivery Date: 20 Feb 2013
Location: Bay Area California

Re: Hacking the VSP Box (Noise Maker)

Sun Jun 04, 2017 9:50 am

This one is similar to what Msportronics except that you have to DIY.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Nissan-Leaf-VSP-Harness-Mod

Image

Her's what I think happened. Msportronics had to strip 54 wires, then pin crimp 54 microscopic pins. A total of 108 actions each. Lots of time involved. Artist / engineers doing repetitive jobs tend to quit sooner then stop producing. On the brighter side, these are same people that bring us innovations.

For some that want to make your own, here's the part number 25172-3NF0A. Someone sells a generic harness which you have to meticulously plug in up to 9 pins yourself. Probably around 2018 or 2019 is when you can't pay anyone to install it. You're on your own.

EDIT: Sept 2017: Here's an open source reference diagram, sourced from the service manual. Diagram shows wires going from switch to the VSP sound communication box. And switch Internal diagram. (2011-2017 LEAF). To be used only when at least one front wheel are raised off the ground (for troubleshooting purpose. Don't drive around with the sound off.)
Image
_______________________________________________________________________________
Image
16-pin connector = VSP sound communication box
8-pin connector = switch unit

The upper diagram is for a fixed illumination (which is easier to work with.) The bottom is for adjustable illumination and is a theory only since I haven't yet attempt to connect it. Some might prefer a 50mA fuse but I recommend two 820-Ohm resistors.

The most important wires are 11 to 4 and 11 to 8, ignition battery voltage lead. I'd make sure this wire is a thicker gauge than the rest. 18 gauge is good. Because it' should be strong enough to blow a fuse. This wire must have a secure connection to the VSP unit, Instead, I used two, no less than 820-Ohm resistor right at pin 11. I recommend it. Only problem is the indicator light is about 10% dimmer.
ltbighorn wrote:
Decimus wrote: WIRE SIZES:
Make sure the lead (wires) are 18 gauge or bigger. Or something that doesn't burn with a 10-Amp load. Small wires can burn, but large wires will pop the fuse. Secondly, the wires have to be wrapped with electrical tape from head to toe, leaving no gaps. The one in the image above is already coated with gray insulation - that's good. This is to help with fire control.
It seems to be like if we're relying on the resistance of the wire to control the current ("large wires will pop the fuse"), that's just asking for trouble/possible fire. The maximum current should be controlled by a resistor, or some other device in the loop, not the wire gauge. Did I miss here as well?
The thicker gauge is to protect the copper wire from burning other stuffs since they're good at popping fuses. Msportronics used tiny wires on his I believe could be unsafe. If they carry 12V, 1-20 Amps then a minimum of 18 gauge is preferred. I believe 18 gauge is common for automotive wires. You probably can use tiny wires if you put the correct resistor at the starting point (on the VSP control unit) exactly what you said at the end.



_____
(WARNING: Do not attempt to connect this unless you are a dealer mechanic. The diagram is for reference only. )

phuber
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2019 9:27 pm
Delivery Date: 02 Dec 2019

Re: Hacking the VSP Box (Noise Maker)

Sat Sep 14, 2019 10:31 am

I have a 2018 model and interconnected a dash switch to the wire going to the speaker itself by reaching through the lower part of the front grill. It was not easy but it is effective in turning off the VPS sounds. However, turning the switch back on does not always result in an immediate return of VSP sounds. I think there must be some electronic sensor that turns off the systems if continuity through the speaker is not maintained. Cycling the car on and off has always restored VSP sounds. Hope this helps. I am still looking for a better way through pins 5 and 8 of the VSP box. Does anyone know if the pinouts changed in the 2017-18 transition?

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FalconFour
Posts: 325
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Delivery Date: 14 Sep 2012
Leaf Number: 008681
Location: San Jose, CA
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Re: Hacking the VSP Box (Noise Maker)

Wed Nov 11, 2020 12:47 am

Oh my bird. This thread got abandoned by both of us :oops:

Well, so, I no longer have a LEAF, as I'm now a Model 3 guy, but I pop in and out of LEAF things every now and then. One thing I've noticed is that Leaf Spy Pro is now able to enable/disable VSP features at a very granular level. You can keep the reverse dings and lose the whooshy-woo driving noise, or vice versa, or neither, or both, or only part of the whooshy but lose the woo, etc etc etc... all with just the Leaf Spy Pro app and an OBDII Bluetooth dongle. And those settings stick!

Image

What I did during my LEAF years was to make my own "VSP Off" button, simply run through the blank pin in the VSP socket and soldered to the pin directly, then the rest of the VSP connector just slides over it. Then, that wire runs across the center dash bits and over to the D/S left-hand switch panel where the VSP button would go. I drilled a big hole in a blank switch plate, and installed a momentary push-button. The wire goes to that switch, and from the other pin of the switch, I went to a ground somewhere on the metal frame nearby. Et voila, I labeled it "VSP Off - STFU", and called it the "STFU button". I'd habitually push it every time I started the car.

I think the Leaf Spy solution is a lot more universal (no need to do anything every time you start the car), but the button solution is more "close to stock" (not to mention way easier to do).

I hoped more of this thread would've been filled with nerds trying to help rip apart that Yamaha ROM dump and ping ideas back and forth about how to make it emit more interesting sounds, but ahh! Oh well...
100% gas-free since September 2012
2011 LEAF SL - Sep 2012~Sep 2014 - 35,737 miles
2013 LEAF S+Charge - Jan 2014-Feb 2017 - 68,065 miles
2014 LEAF SV+Premium+QC - Feb 2017-present

Set
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Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2016 2:20 pm
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Re: Hacking the VSP Box (Noise Maker)

Wed Nov 18, 2020 4:40 pm

Where is the documentation on how to use Leafspy Pro to disable specific VSP sounds

ironmanco
Posts: 120
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2015 8:26 pm
Delivery Date: 25 Jan 2016
Location: Boulder, CO

Re: Hacking the VSP Box (Noise Maker)

Wed Nov 18, 2020 4:46 pm

You need to turn the service screen on. Then you select VSP settings. This is only available on LeafSpy Pro.
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